Dumb dash ground question

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4spdragtop

4spdragtop

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While redoing dash harness on our 67 barracuda I added extra grounds. As I try and tidy this up i wanted to test led's and anything else before the dash goes in. I installed the extra grounds on existing ground posts on circuit boards. Is this a bad idea? Should I move off the existing circuit boards to the metal cluster housing?
I'm applying 6v and some light, some dont. I have tested out of sockets and they all work.
Also can I put a 12v charger on the new external ivr as my 12 v supply?
Thanks
Steve

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Hi, Steve. I don't see that it matters. Every screw that holds the PC board to the metal dash is usually a ground. You can verify that easily by looking for traces. I can see you have several "daisy chained." "That should do it!!"
 
Most LED's are polarity dependent. Just pull the bulb and holder out, and turn it 180 and put it back in and retest.
 
Thanks guys, sockets are good, leds are good(verified). Some light up and some dont when installed in dash. I'm using 2 6v batteries in parallel.
Should I use my 12v charger? Or I have a 12v battery.
67Dart273 said:
Hi, Steve. I don't see that it matters. Every screw that holds the PC board to the metal dash is usually a ground. You can verify that easily by looking for traces. I can see you have several "daisy chained." "That should do it!!"
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cudamark said:
Most LED's are polarity dependent. Just pull the bulb and holder out, and turn it 180 and put it back in and retest.
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Took battery from cuda and used it as supply. Found out the one led i couldnt get lit(brakes)was due to its ground is dedicated and contained in the round rally plug when connected. Unplugged round plug and applied +ve and -ve directly and it lights.
Radio, dash lights including signals and hi beams all work.
Gotta double check ashtray/glovebox wiring, the GB light no light....
Next is glovebox light

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Thanks Mike, I bought it years back from @RedFish .
Got the map light and glovebox light working. Missed a couple of unconnected plugs. All work as it should. I'm going to remove 90* boots and put normal female bullet connectors. I put the 90* boots on as Ma Mopar originally did. So far so good.
Mike69cuda said:
Interesting IVR. Did you buy it or make it?
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Great work! When I redid my instrument cluster I found several of the bulb connectors had those flat connectors that are supposed to contact the circuit board were not. Had to slightly bend the tabs down so they made good contact. Replaced my bulbs with LEDs as well. The OE wiring was all hacked up so got a new harness which resolved some weird issues I was having. Last issue I resolved with that work was to fix the temp gauge going to the top of the range when the ignition was on. Found the voltage regulator inside of the fuel gauge was bad so replaced with a solid state IVR. Amazing what our cars have gone through in the 50+ years of multiple owners!
 
looks awesome i am also putting LEDs in my dash did you have to do any thing special or just plug them in
 
WAYNE0 said:
looks awesome i am also putting LEDs in my dash did you have to do any thing special or just plug them in
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They are plug in. Only thing you may need to do is to change your hazard & turn signal flashers. Be sure to get the flashers that have a ground wire. I changed all my bulbs to LED so needed the flashers. If you keep the OE bulbs for the rear front signals you should not need to change the flashers.
 
Thanks, LED's are polarity sensitive so make sure they arent 180* out. I only changed dash lights and didnt change flasher yet.
WAYNE0 said:
looks awesome i am also putting LEDs in my dash did you have to do any thing special or just plug them in
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Ricks70Duster340 said:
They are plug in. Only thing you may need to do is to change your hazard & turn signal flashers. Be sure to get the flashers that have a ground wire. I changed all my bulbs to LED so needed the flashers. If you keep the OE bulbs for the rear front signals you should not need to change the flashers.
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Ricks70Duster340 said:
They are plug in. Only thing you may need to do is to change your hazard & turn signal flashers. Be sure to get the flashers that have a ground wire. I changed all my bulbs to LED so needed the flashers. If you keep the OE bulbs for the rear front signals you should not need to change the flashers.
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Thanks for the info. When it comes to the flashers what do i asks for a my local napa.
 
4spdragtop said:
Thanks, LED's are polarity sensitive so make sure they arent 180* out. I only changed dash lights and didnt change flasher yet.
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This might seem like a dumb question but what do you mean by 180* out
 
WAYNE0 said:
Thanks for the info. When it comes to the flashers what do i asks for a my local napa.
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You can get one thru Amazon similar to this one. Edit: Same flasher for both turn signal and hazard.
United Pacific Heavy Duty 12-Volt LED Flasher, 2 Terminals, 18 Gauge Insulated Ground Wire, 2-Pin LED Flasher, Plastic Body – 1 Unit (Part No. 90650)
 
Those sheet metal pal nuts love to loosen and cause all sorts of bad connections on the instrument cluster. Give em a snug

I got this flasher relay for LED that is adjustable flash speed. Has a good loud click.
Gets rid of the slow-blink-while-idling-with-headlights-on feature of the original Tung Sol combined with underdrive crankshaft pulley.

Terminals weren't right for it in original 2-prong harness, just pop em out and move to the correct locations. and had to add a ground wire,
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VSFSMYT/?tag=fabo03-20
 
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