Dyno pull

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Is it fun to drive? Does it do what you want it to do? Can you burn rubber, make some noise and look cool/enjoy doin it? LOL if so them dyno numbers dont mean dick lol.
My new years celebrating has started early lol my apologies not tryin to sound like an ***.
 
Is it fun to drive? Does it do what you want it to do? Can you burn rubber, make some noise and look cool/enjoy doin it? LOL if so them dyno numbers dont mean dick lol.
My new years celebrating has started early lol my apologies not tryin to sound like an ***.
you do make a valid point man ...not going to argue ...I'm not mad because the way this thing drives it feels fast ...can't wait to see what it actually does lol at the track
 
Dynos vary. Take the numbers you got get a weight for your ride and hit the track. If no amount of tuning makes it faster work on the chassis. I have drag racin on the brain ALL the time lol. Street car or not all I think about is straight line:thumbsup:
 
Right on, it's a spark plug killer at idle. 11:1 A/F is off the wall FAT/RICH. That thing is a hot mess.

Get the ignition timing sorted out FIRST, then get the idle setting on the carb figured out. If you need different advance bushings for the distributor, I have them available in 10 and 14 degree sizing.

I bet it has little initial timing. Simple test, lightly loosen the dist hold down, start car and give Distributor a small twist clockwise. If the RPM picks up it wants the timing at idle.

I hope you have a timing light, you're going to need one. Put it on the car and see where the idle timing is set and at what RPM. A vacuum gauge can be a huge help as well when tuning. Consider them key tools when build hot rod engines/cars.

Does the engine crank a lot or need you to give it pedal when starting? More clues that it doesn't have enough timing at idle.

Look like 1 7/8" hooker fenderwell headers, get plug wires OFF the header and separated. No zip ties to hold all 4 wires together, that's BAD. Here's a heads up, with those headers. Run the wires across the front of your engine, then down and under the headers. Keeps them away from the heat as the tubes all go above to exit.

This is what happens when no thought is put into a car. That engine bay is nasty. You get a mishmash of really bad stuff, techniques, methods that now you get to sort out. Takes a little time, learning and patience.
 
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the way this thing drives

You admit right here you are happy with the power. Then what difference does it make what some BS dyno says? I bet you can find another one that'll be a 100 HP and TQ difference better somewhere. Would that make you feel better? Dynos are a good tool, but to take a lot of stock in one.......one that someone may not know what they are doing with......or may be VERY stingy is sorta dumb. If you like the way the car runs, be happy with it. If you really want to see what kind of power it has, use the best dyno made. The dragstrip.
 
That thing is a hot mess.

You mean like this? Man, that's mess up bad.

HOT MESS.jpg
 
Right on, it's a spark plug killer at idle. 11:1 A/F is off the wall FAT/RICH. That thing is a hot mess.

Get the ignition timing sorted out FIRST, then get the idle setting on the carb figured out. If you need different advance bushings for the distributor, I have them available in 10 and 14 degree sizing.

I bet it has little initial timing. Simple test, lightly loosen the dist hold down, start car and give Distributor a small twist clockwise. If the RPM picks up it wants the timing at idle.

I hope you have a timing light, you're going to need one. Put it on the car and see where the idle timing is set and at what RPM. A vacuum gauge can be a huge help as well when tuning. Consider them key tools when build hot rod engines/cars.

Does the engine crank a lot or need you to give it pedal when starting? More clues that it doesn't have enough timing at idle.

Look like 1 7/8" hooker fenderwell headers, get plug wires OFF the header and separated. No zip ties to hold all 4 wires together, that's BAD. Here's a heads up, with those headers. Run the wires across the front of your engine, then down and under the headers. Keeps them away from the heat as the tubes all go above to exit.

This is what happens when no thought is put into a car. That engine bay is nasty. You get a mishmash of really bad stuff, techniques, methods that now you get to sort out. Takes a little time, learning and patience.


I agree 100%. Did the dyno guy not see the A/F ratio? If he did and didn't tell you how to correct it, you need to throat punch him.

I don't know what you paid for by my dyno time came with my tuning. That would not have come off the rollers until that **** was fixed.
 
With a rich fuelmixture the engine will smell pretty bad and leave a good amount of power on the table.
Not even knowing how the timing is set.

I’m under the impression that this dyno run was a rear wheel test.

That number is at the crank, not wheels. And the HP numbers is dependent on what head it has.

You guys quote my earlier post but I don't think you both actually read what I typed in there ;)
"and your rearwheel dynonumbers don't seem that out of line."
 
OP- fire the current dyno guru and go find someone else..... That thing is pig rich. Unless you were a knuckle head and wouldn't make any changes I can't think of any dyno owners that would have not tried to clean that up.

Side note is if you like the way it feels now wait til you get it sorted out. Fun times.....

JW
 
I agree 100%. Did the dyno guy not see the A/F ratio? If he did and didn't tell you how to correct it, you need to throat punch him.

I don't know what you paid for by my dyno time came with my tuning. That would not have come off the rollers until that **** was fixed.

I agree. I paid for two hours of dyno time and that included us playing with timing and carb settings. Maybe this was one of those mobile dynos where you pay $100 sign a waiver and strap your car down?
 
Right on, it's a spark plug killer at idle. 11:1 A/F is off the wall FAT/RICH. That thing is a hot mess.

Get the ignition timing sorted out FIRST, then get the idle setting on the carb figured out. If you need different advance bushings for the distributor, I have them available in 10 and 14 degree sizing.

I bet it has little initial timing. Simple test, lightly loosen the dist hold down, start car and give Distributor a small twist clockwise. If the RPM picks up it wants the timing at idle.

I hope you have a timing light, you're going to need one. Put it on the car and see where the idle timing is set and at what RPM. A vacuum gauge can be a huge help as well when tuning. Consider them key tools when build hot rod engines/cars.

Does the engine crank a lot or need you to give it pedal when starting? More clues that it doesn't have enough timing at idle.

Look like 1 7/8" hooker fenderwell headers, get plug wires OFF the header and separated. No zip ties to hold all 4 wires together, that's BAD. Here's a heads up, with those headers. Run the wires across the front of your engine, then down and under the headers. Keeps them away from the heat as the tubes all go above to exit.

This is what happens when no thought is put into a car. That engine bay is nasty. You get a mishmash of really bad stuff, techniques, methods that now you get to sort out. Takes a little time, learning and patience.
All this is good info as far as the start. The initial start it fires up for about one second then dies. After that good luck it's flooded out and the only way to get it running is a little starting fluid. Then it runs fine ...but I will say this after about 10 mins at idle it starts to burn your eyes and lungs..hahaha
 
I agree 100%. Did the dyno guy not see the A/F ratio? If he did and didn't tell you how to correct it, you need to throat punch him.

I don't know what you paid for by my dyno time came with my tuning. That would not have come off the rollers until that **** was fixed.
 
I agree 100%. Did the dyno guy not see the A/F ratio? If he did and didn't tell you how to correct it, you need to throat punch him.

I don't know what you paid for by my dyno time came with my tuning. That would not have come off the rollers until that **** was fixed.
We just payed for pulls ...this shop was all computer guys no carb guys ....have to find someone that can
 
For some reason everyone in my area that run a Dyno they are all computer guys ...no more old school tuners I guess ....looks like buying a trailer is involved along with some travel lol
 
We just payed for pulls ...this shop was all computer guys no carb guys ....have to find someone that can

After I thought about this we do have a guy who only wants to run FI on his dyno in our area. He will run them but makes it clear that you are on your own when tuning it. But with saying that I am sure he will help make sure the changes you make are getting you to a better performing number...

JW
 
But these days just about every smartphone has accelerometers inside and similar apps available that have rendered these G-tech (-like) devices fairly useless.
 
All this is good info as far as the start. The initial start it fires up for about one second then dies. After that good luck it's flooded out and the only way to get it running is a little starting fluid. Then it runs fine ...but I will say this after about 10 mins at idle it starts to burn your eyes and lungs..hahaha
Yes it is good procedure the guys have given you.
Do yourself (and us) a favor, get a notebook and use it. It can be digital - that doesn't matter. Have one section - beginning would be good, write down all you can about the parts on the engine. Intake will have brand and partnumber or name cast in it. Headers - you can measure the tubing outer diameter and look at pictures on-line until you get a match. Carb - if it has its choke tower - Holley's will have a list number stamped on it. Leave space for stuff you'll figure out later.

We just payed for pulls ...this shop was all computer guys no carb guys ....have to find someone that can
I don't know what they were doing with an LM2 Wideband if it wasn't integrated into their dyno data, or at least was picking up rpm from an inductive clamp. If you want my .02 on chassis dyno tuning look further down in this subforum - title of the thread is something like "nothing to compare with"

Back to what the other guys were posting. You'll need a timing light, a tach, and a vacuum gage is helpful, as is timing tape. Get the cold and warm idle figured out. If the engine is running like garbage at idle, it will lose time responding to the wide open throttle. Also its just bad for the engine. If its got a choke, see if you can make it work. If no choke, then you're gonna nave to learn how to start it without one and then two foot it until it warms up enough.
 
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