E-Core Coil?

-
JGC403

JGC403

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2010
Messages
1,051
Reaction score
49
Location
Baileyton, TN
I'm going to do an ignition upgrade on my Duster and wanted to replace the coil while I'm at it. I am considering using an E-Core type like posted in the link. I have had luck with Accel coils on my Jeep and was considering using that one. I'm just wondering if it would work with the rest of the the Mopar ignition system, mostly the ballast resistor.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/.../year/1995?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending
 
If you are talking about the first one on the page you linked, it's a C core not E core.
It requires a full unresisted 12 volts.
Problem is, if your stock ignition module needs resisted power you will still have to run the resistor, but supply the coil off of the ignition side of the ballast instead of the coil side.

Unless you need or want to keep the rest of the ignition all stock, I would recommend that you do the entire HEI change over and get rid of all those wires under the hood, as well as the ballast and the mopar box.

Also keep in mind that you would need the pigtail for that coil.

Take a look at my HEI conversions www.classichei.com
 
if you use the ballast the coil wont get enough voltage or amps,there are plenty of good right ups here ,I use the 4 pin gm with the e coil / with a new mopar dist. and if you mount the coil and pick up together you can make a portable system to mount to anything ,I use it sometimes for quick trouble shooting .
 
Sorry,, I didn't see the thread you started yesterday about the same thing,,

Perhaps if you kept all you posts about similar things in the same thread,, people wouldn't jump in on something you already covered..

hope it helps
 
mopowers said:
Are there stock ignition modules that run on resisted power? I thought they run on 12v??
Click to expand...

I was under the impression that some modules themselves needed resisted power.
I could be wrong about it from misunderstanding something I read somewhere.

Still would be able to run only an aftermarket coil with 12 volts by jumping the coil power around the ballast, but unless someone wanted to keep the car where it could be put back stock I don't see any point in keeping all that unneeded junk under the hood.
I'd bet I removed 20 feet of wires when I put my HEI in.
 
The early Mopar modules that need a resistor are the ones known as "5 pin ECU" and require a 4 terminal ballast, which of course is actually 2 resistors in one ceramic casting

You cannot always tell a 4 from a 5 pin ECU by looking, as many aftermarket 4 pin boxes have 5 physical pins. Only way to tell for certain is to ohm the "5th" pin against the others

Most any new, aftermarket box you buy nowadays will be 4 pins electrically

So far as the coil resistor, this just might depend on luck of the draw and quality of the box. "Officially" of course, the original Mopar systems were never designed to switch modern hi performance coils.

In other words you might find yourself at the side of the road.

If you use some form of HEI module, you don't need to worry much about ballast or what kind of coil. They will handle a wide range, and even a stock Mopar factory coil will produce hotter spark (without a ballast) using a GM HEI

Also, the GM modules do NOT draw current through the coil with key "on" and engine "off."
 
Thanks for clearing that up, as I was pretty sure but didn't want to say it was fact.



67Dart273 said:
The early Mopar modules that need a resistor are the ones known as "5 pin ECU" and require a 4 terminal ballast, which of course is actually 2 resistors in one ceramic casting

You cannot always tell a 4 from a 5 pin ECU by looking, as many aftermarket 4 pin boxes have 5 physical pins. Only way to tell for certain is to ohm the "5th" pin against the others

Most any new, aftermarket box you buy nowadays will be 4 pins electrically

So far as the coil resistor, this just might depend on luck of the draw and quality of the box. "Officially" of course, the original Mopar systems were never designed to switch modern hi performance coils.

In other words you might find yourself at the side of the road.

If you use some form of HEI module, you don't need to worry much about ballast or what kind of coil. They will handle a wide range, and even a stock Mopar factory coil will produce hotter spark (without a ballast) using a GM HEI

Also, the GM modules do NOT draw current through the coil with key "on" and engine "off."
Click to expand...
 
The E-core coils in the link look just like the one on Magnum motors, you just pay a lot more to get them in yellow or red. I got one (w/ connector) at the PickNPull cheap, but decided to use a GM coil instead since direct connection to GM 8-pin HEI module. Those use no ballast, but since your car has the unique Mopar ignition connector, best to stay with that. But, as mentioned your ignition box may fail if you drive an HEI coil with it.
 
BillGrissom said:
The E-core coils in the link look just like the one on Magnum motors, you just pay a lot more to get them in yellow or red. I got one (w/ connector) at the PickNPull cheap, but decided to use a GM coil instead since direct connection to GM 8-pin HEI module. Those use no ballast, but since your car has the unique Mopar ignition connector, best to stay with that. But, as mentioned your ignition box may fail if you drive an HEI coil with it.
Click to expand...

Yep, same coil as a stock magnum just more money.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top