flathead31coupe
Well-Known Member
has anyone did this swap using factory suspension...no modern parts, and not cut up the car to do it,,,,
has anyone did this swap using factory suspension...no modern parts, and not cut up the car to do it,,,,
I'm gettin ready do do a 400 in a 64 Valiant. I am going to use big block spool mounts and everything is going to be stock with the suspension. It will likely even retain the factory 9" drum brakes for a time.
That is a common problem. You have to use an oil pan designed for an A body.what iam running into is the idler arm side of the v8 centerlink is hitting the oil pan,,,when turning to the right,,,but turning left it doesnt hit...i have different oil pans but they are the same depth at the rear as the one i have...cannot raise the engine any higher
what iam running into is the idler arm side of the v8 centerlink is hitting the oil pan,,,when turning to the right,,,but turning left it doesnt hit...i have different oil pans but they are the same depth at the rear as the one i have...cannot raise the engine any higher
need to cut the trans tunnel at the top om the cross member if using a 727 trans
That's the first I've heard of this issue. I didn't have to do this on my 66. Do you have a photo of where it was interfering?
It would be a first for me hearing it too. The only think I've heard regarding the transmission tunnel involves using the 727 behind the big block. That requires the pinch weld in the transmission tunnel to be flattened. Anything further I have nether seen nor heard about. The transmission tunnel supposedly requires nothing for use with a manual transmission behind a big block. All that said, no two of these cars were made the same, so I am sure a modification might be required on one that will not on another. Just do like I am going to. Once I get all of the parts, I am going to go for the install and "just do" whatever I need to to get the job done. Too many people always want to know every little stinkin detail before they jump because they're scared. It's impossible to give every detail because every car is a little different. When I do finally get ready to do mine, rest assured, I will take tons of pictures.
agreed, i dicn't cut the tunnel any putting a 440/727 in my 65 dart. just folded the pinch weld flat for bellhousing clearance.That's the first I've heard of this issue. I didn't have to do this on my 66. Do you have a photo of where it was interfering?
i had to notch out a little piece at the top where the trans mount bracket goes up one side and down the other side of the trans tunnel so the tail shaft would go up far enough to get the bolts in the trams mount...i had to do the same on my 66 dart as wellagreed, i dicn't cut the tunnel any putting a 440/727 in my 65 dart. just folded the pinch weld flat for bellhousing clearance.
neil.
maybe you used a different/taller rubber mount?. i think from memory i used the /6 one.i had to notch out a little piece at the top where the trans mount bracket goes up one side and down the other side of the trans tunnel so the tail shaft would go up far enough to get the bolts in the trams mount...i had to do the same on my 66 dart as well
has anyone did this swap using factory suspension...no modern parts, and not cut up the car to do it,,,,
i both cars i used the /6 mount...but the same 727,,,i havent looked into it maybe its differentmaybe you used a different/taller rubber mount?. i think from memory i used the /6 one.
neil.
nice job did you make thoses headers? thats my only issue, using hooker fenderwell headers they will need to be modified to clear the shock towers....
i like what was made....i have had that engine in my 66 dart,,,gasser piece of cake, not worrying about the stock stuff....i had them made locally. they weren't cheap..lol.. biggest issue with the swap is the exhaust. i woudl never use those hooker fenderwells.. gotta cut much on a 67-up abody. god knows how bad they will fit an early abody.. having the 440 in the car was easier to work on then when it had a 360 in it believe it or not.