Eddy 1406 elec choke operation-Not "getting it"

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equium

equium

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1970 Plymouth Valiant 318, mild cam
So I'm ditching my Holley for this eddy 600 cfm model 1406.
I'm looking at it here on my desk, and I'm not fully understanding the fundamental operation of this electric choke.
It's my understanding that before starting a cold engine, you depress the accelerator pedal all the way, and this activates the choke and high idle.
Is this the same procedure for a carb with an electric choke?
I understand that on a cold engine, the choke plate is closed, and will open slowly as the heated wire expands. But what sets the High idle?
I'm sitting here moving the throttle to WOT but I don't see any high idle being set.
I think I'm missing something and need one of you to set me straight.
thanks
danny
 
I'm no carb garu by any means, but I've been looking on the web for answers on carbs. And beleive it or not there are plenty of videos that will explain in complete detail what you are asking. I can't tell you which one for sure as I've watched so many I did'nt keep track but there are alot. Just go to ask.com and type in how a electric choke works or something to that effect and I'm sure there will be a bunch of pop ups that will help you out. I've had some pretty good luck that way. I hope this helps. I do gotta say I did have one of these carbs a couple of years ago on a mild 318 and have no complaints.
 
The high speed idle operates off a cam and adjusting screw on the cable side. The cam is a counterweight that rotates to curb idle when the throttle is opened. The electric chokes work pretty good but tend to load up a bit when first started because of no primary choke pull off. Tmm
 
The fast idle mechanism on the electric choke works exactly the same as the fast idle mechanism on any other choke. Probably the exact same parts are even used.
 
toolmanmike said:
The high speed idle operates off a cam and adjusting screw on the cable side. The cam is a counterweight that rotates to curb idle when the throttle is opened. The electric chokes work pretty good but tend to load up a bit when first started because of no primary choke pull off. Tmm
Click to expand...
I see the cam and counterweight you're talking about. I don't understand how the high idle is activated. Do I have to press the pedal to WOT before starting as you would with an automatic (non electric) choke? If so, I don't see that happening as it sits here on my desk.
 
There should be a piece of linkage that goes from the butterfly to that stepped cam,.

When the choke closes , it lifts the counter weight/cam so that the fast idle screw engages the diff steps of the cam,.. As the choke comes off ,, the cam slowly drops progressively down the steps, till it totally clears the cam,, then the normal idle speed screw takes over....
 
Equium, post a pic of that side of the carb, so we can see what you see.
 
This fist shot is right out of the box. The choke is fully closed.
The second shot is after a simulated run. I opened the choke and cycled the throttle.
I see where the counterweight comes into play.
 

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In the first pic, it is on high idle. The second it is not.
 
I hate to sound like a jerk, but the directions explain this pretty well I think. Basic drawings with parts named & How to set up.
 
rumblefish360 said:
I hate to sound like a jerk, but the directions explain this pretty well I think. Basic drawings with parts named & How to set up.
Click to expand...
No worries. Setting it up is no problem. I was just having a hard time understanding the workings. after some of the explanations, I get it now. I think once I get it on the engine and see it work, I'll get that final "ah ha" moment.
thanks everyone for the info and for not beating me up. lol
:D
 
Oh I see. Yea, once you see it work....
 
When you get the carb out in the cold you will see how it all works. Indoor temps are too warm for the choke to close with much force. At 30° and colder the choke butterfly will snap shut. You can adjust the choke coil by loosening the screws and turning the black cover either richer or lean depending on what you need. There are markings on the cover to guide you. tmm
 
the elec choke hosing has a piston that is used to pull the choke off a little on start up. to do this on the old O.E.M. they had a diaphram with link, that pulled the choke off. and toolmanmike is very right on adjusting the choke setting spring. i found that some times i had to change the linkage ratio to the choke plate to be slower that stock. and the electric part is to turn the choke off. on older O.E.M. setups the engine heat was used, but wasnt very good way to do it.
 
Thanks for asking this question. I have a similar carb (the 1400) and haven't figured out exactly how the two were linked. Despite skimming through all of the Edelbrock material (their manual is pretty thorough) I wasn't getting a good visual on how those pieces worked together. Seeing the pictures away from the car actually helps a little (I get distracted easy).
 
NukeBass said:
Thanks for asking this question. I have a similar carb (the 1400) and haven't figured out exactly how the two were linked. Despite skimming through all of the Edelbrock material (their manual is pretty thorough) I wasn't getting a good visual on how those pieces worked together. Seeing the pictures away from the car actually helps a little (I get distracted easy).
Click to expand...
One of the problems I was having was trying to figure it out in the comfort of my heated home. Someone mentioned the choke needs to be "outside" cold for it to work. I moved my carb out to my garage and and played with the linkage in the morning. It made better sense then. I also called Edelbrock tech support for an unrelated question, and the guy totally set me straight on my application and what I need to do. 300 bucks later, I have a new dual plane intake (and more) on the way to replace the existing single plane. I can't wait to see and hear it all put together.
 
it also needs to be sitting properly and hooked up to power to work automaticly,,,
 
OK. I finally got everything bolted together and adjusted (for the most part) and fired up my car on a nice cold morning. It fired right up and idled at 1500 RPM. I was so happy.
But then....the idle started to go up. within a minute or so, it had risen to 2500 RPM. I pressed the accelerator and it kicked down to normal idle. It was a bit rough since it was still a bit cold. Are the RPMs supposed to go up like that? I thought it started at high idle and came down to normal idle as the choke opened.
thanks
 
As it started to catch and warm, even though still cold, it probably increased. Next time, start it with hood open and screwdriver in hand and when it's up on the high idle cam, adjust it down to where it stays running.

High idle cam, NOT the base idle.
 
Bad Sport said:
As it started to catch and warm, even though still cold, it probably increased. Next time, start it with hood open and screwdriver in hand and when it's up on the high idle cam, adjust it down to where it stays running.

High idle cam, NOT the base idle.
Click to expand...
Should I temp. disconnect the power to the choke so It stays put while I make the adjustments? I recall I have to move the throttle to near WOT to get to the high idle screw.
Also, do you mean to adjust the high idle low, so that it will increase as the choke warms, or adjust it just lower so that it ends up around 1500?
 
Bad Sport said:
As it started to catch and warm, even though still cold, it probably increased. Next time, start it with hood open and screwdriver in hand and when it's up on the high idle cam, adjust it down to where it stays running.

High idle cam, NOT the base idle.
Click to expand...

Right on the nose.
The engine rpm will raise as the engine gets a little warmed and the choke starts opening, so a quick tap of the gas pedel will/should bring it down.

Just a FYI this is the sequence on my own eddie 600 electric:

Get in and turn on the key to start the electric fuel pump, and wait a second or so to hear the fuel pump start to slow a little (Carb is now full)

Two pumps to the floor to give the initial startup fuel and set the choke.
Turn the key and it fires right up at highest idle
Tap the gas pedal to bring it down just a bit (this is where the idle starts climbing as it gets warmer and the choke starts opening more)

After about 3 min tap it again and it comes down to a normal idle and it's ready to drive.

It changes a little depending on outside temps and the above is winter conditons.

In the summer it's one pump on startup and the high idle is lower (almost normal) because the choke isn't closed as hard from the cold.

Also I think you already found out that the fast idle adjustment screw is a PIA to get to.
I use a 1/4 drive 1/4" short socket as a handle and a changable type screwdriver tip to turn the screw.

Like this.
 

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equium said:
Should I temp. disconnect the power to the choke so It stays put while I make the adjustments? I recall I have to move the throttle to near WOT to get to the high idle screw.
Also, do you mean to adjust the high idle low, so that it will increase as the choke warms, or adjust it just lower so that it ends up around 1500?
Click to expand...

All things being equal, the next time you start it, adjust just the high idle on the choke cam down. It doesn't really need to idle at 1500 RPM. Idle it down to where it will stay running, if it seems like it wants to stall turn it back up a smidge.
 
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