Eddy heads - will I feel a difference on my 340 ?

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rebeldart

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Currently a .030 over 340 w/mild porting on X heads, XE274 cam, TTI exhaust, Airgap and 770 Holley, auto w/3000 stall , 3.91 gear. For the money spent, will I bolt on and go "wow"?
 
ou should feel the differance. Out of the box RPMs flow about as good as most well ported iron heads. Around 250 @ .500
 
Do you have to do much work to them to make them compatible for your engine? Or is it just a simple swap? I have a 360 and was considering a pair...
 
Unless your pistons stick above the block then it should be a simple bolt on with the correct head bolts.
 
I personnallyyyy do not think you'll feel the difference. Very little if at best. Use less money and do the X heads.

If your set on the Edel.'s.
Use the ARP head bolts for the Edel. heads and see this thread; http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=24282
About Alt. spacing.

All small block stuff is exchangable except early 273 head and intake. Bolt angles will screw you.
Then the no da, crank and pistons oil pan.
 
AdamR said:
Unless your pistons stick above the block then it should be a simple bolt on with the correct head bolts.
Click to expand...

thats what the edelbrock performer rpm340 heads are for 8) works good with earlystyle popup pistons
 
I would be willing to bet you will. Hell, the weight savings alone off the front end alone will help. Prepare to re adjust your torsion bars because it will sit up a little bit from the weight drop.
 
If the your current heads are in the 70-72cc range, bolting on the Ede's will get you about a 1 point increase in compression.

Even if they flow the same you'll see a benefit there. Do you know what your current heads flow through the range?

Stock J heads flow in the 200 cfm range at .500
Really nice, fully ported J's go in the same range as stock ede's.
Eddies flow in the 250cfm at .500 lift out of the box. Do some very minor clean up and back cut the valve and they will be in the 260 range EASY.

Better flow, more compression... I'd say you'll notice a difference

Here's a good site for some flow data. How accurate???
http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tablehdc.htm#Chrysler
 
Remember,..aluminum heads will need and additional 1.5-2.0 points to make the same power as steel all else being equal.
Terry.
 
I would say no,Im not sure if any of you are quoting numbers or have had edelbrocks flowed but I have seen several flowed and out of the box they were not flowing 250 at there advertised peak.Also they were weak at the .500 lift mark wich is where most guys are needing it any way.From everything Ive personally witnessed on mopar and other makes the out of the box edelbrocks need work to meet what they are advertised as.
 
i agree with you 69 my eddy heads were junk out of the box until bjr racing got a hold of them! they did not flow what edelbrock claims and the port runners are smaller than they claim
 
I think I'll hold out and think this one through awhile. As said - motor is a 69 with original X's, supposed mild porting so maybe upping the port job would be more economical at this point (?). Goal was to build it the way I wanted it while it's out, not a big deal. Guess I'll go with the flat screen TV in stead of the Eddies! Anybody familiar with these guys: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mopa...ryZ33617QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
 
lead69 said:
I would say no,Im not sure if any of you are quoting numbers or have had edelbrocks flowed but I have seen several flowed and out of the box they were not flowing 250 at there advertised peak.Also they were weak at the .500 lift mark wich is where most guys are needing it any way.From everything Ive personally witnessed on mopar and other makes the out of the box edelbrocks need work to meet what they are advertised as.
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I agree. That's what I see out of most of them too. A lot of performance can be had from the 'old' production steel castings with a good deep bowl port with good seats and a 30* back cut on the valves. Something you can do yourself. Yes..you need to think about this. Good luck and keep us informed as to your progress.
Terry.
 
rebeldart said:
I think I'll hold out and think this one through awhile. As said - motor is a 69 with original X's, supposed mild porting so maybe upping the port job would be more economical at this point (?). Goal was to build it the way I wanted it while it's out, not a big deal. Guess I'll go with the flat screen TV in stead of the Eddies! Anybody familiar with these guys: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mopa...ryZ33617QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Click to expand...

Those ebay heads are just bowl blended. Not fully ported as the title says.

It seems like your X heads you have now are bowl blended, so why bother with these ebay heads?
 
Not enough difference W the eddys. to pay for the cost. Your biggest dif. is weight.
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compared to my home ported 596s with 202/160s the eddys with 1.2 more points of compression allowed me to go .015Et faster-maybe!!
good job I got a real good deal on them or i would be one p--sed off cowboy - BUT THEY LOOK NICE . Do some port work on the Xs.
 
Let me say this, there is a lot of misinformation bandied about. This is what I know for a fact.

Any aluminum head needs work out of the box.

Aluminum heads offer a greater potential, not necessarily better performance out of the box.

Aluminum heads are lighter, my car lost 40 pounds off the front end.

Aluminum heads are repairable, you should never have to replace them.

Aluminum heads dissipate heat much faster than iron. This is why some people believe they need 1 point more of compression than iron heads do. I dare anyone to prove this.

So, unless this is strictly a street car and the budget is limited I would recommend aluminum heads. You'll need to research them though and chose the best ones that you think will match your car's intended future use.

My motto is save the money and buy the best suited parts the first time. It's cheaper in the long run.

I resisted aluminum heads for a long time but after I made the switch (small chamber W5s for me) I'll never, and I really mean never, go back to iron. And I had W2s. There was that much of a difference in performance and weight for me. No question, aluminum is the only way to go if you want to get the most from your engine.
 
I think it boils down to your wallet, and your butt. If you drive the car hard enough to notice small improvements (like after you change plugs, or clean the air filter) then I'm sure you will notice a decent improvement. However, if your heads are done really well, and the Edelbrocks show typical production line issues, the gain you feel may be just the weight loss. In any case, I am sure you'll feel something. Only you can judge whether it's "good enough" to justify the cost. Real good iron heads cost a bit to get. Same with aluminum, but edelbrocks are starting from a much better point thatn the iron.
 
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