Edited: another fuel/temp gauge thread, but turns out the harness is melted together

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With my key off and the temp sender wire terminal removed from the sender I measure 34 ohms from the terminal to battery negative.

Does this tell me anything? Should this value be close to 0?
 
I started unwrapping my under dash harness from the bulkhead connector and I found another section of melted wires starting a few inches back. Looks like the charging circuit got hot and melted some surrounding wires. The red wire is bare with plastic melted. This probably happened years ago.

I guess the bright side is my car didn’t burn to the ground.

I think it’s time to remove the under dash harness and investigate and make repairs.

I wonder, at what point should I just buy a new harness?

Thanks everybody.
 
If I was going to do another old car, I think the first thing I would do is buy all the harnesses and replace them all at once. Would have saved a lot of effort chasing electrical gremlins one at a time.
 
If I was going to do another old car, I think the first thing I would do is buy all the harnesses and replace them all at once. Would have saved a lot of effort chasing electrical gremlins one at a time.
I agree, better to be safe than lose a car to an electrical fire.

Yearone has the best plug and play wiring harnesses.
 
New sender is pretty easy & cheap. See if you can get a Mopar one. Measure it before you put it in. I have had them bad out of the box, and also fail the first time they warm up, or maybe they were damaged installing. Seems like I have bought a bunch of them. They seem to be pretty crappy quality, like most Chinese stuff.
I recommend you contact "halifaxhops". He's an electrical guru. He knows his stuff, and is good at sharing his knowledge. First class man.
 

I’d like to know why my fusible link didn’t protect that circuit.
Fuse links are very very undependable, a true story:

When I had my old 70 440-6 car, about 72, a couple girls whalloped into the rear of it in San Diego. While it was at the body shop, the dealer gave me a junk loaner Valiant. Slant six, bald tires, one of them (there were two!!) broke a heater hose which had been cooked to "brittle."

ANY way this was a "cold winter" in San Diego and one morning I had started it up at the RADAR shop at Miramar as I was getting off "duty." The Chief, who could EXACTLY resemble TV detective "Columbo," came in and said, "I just have one question.....is it supposed to be squealing and smoking?"

So I go out and the alternator is STOPPED but the belt is slipping around it--oily--loose--smoking-squealing.
For reasons that escape me, I loosened the adjustment, took a rag and tried to wiggle the pulley. Turns out the reason it was stopped--IS THAT A DIODE HAD FALLEN OUT OF THE CASE AND WAS STOPPED BY THE ROTOR. When I wiggled the pulley, it moved the diode,which then caused a short to the case. ---and I sat there and watched the underhood harness smoke, fizzle, melt, and when it got all done cooking into a smelly, smokey mess--THAT is when the link blew.

I called the dealer, and told them "to send another loaner and a wrecker." Instead, 2 hours later, a Mexican in a junk pickup full of junk batteries and ragged jumper cables showed up. I went out and he looked at me from under the hood and said, "hey this is all burned up." !!DUH!!

This was McCune Chyrsler Plymouth in National City, by the way, and even though they are now a huge place, I would NEVER do business with them ever again.
 
I have now repaired and reinstalled my wiring harness. The fuel gauge is working, at least as best as it can with an aftermarket sender. The temp gauge circuit pin was loose, so I wired that connection straight to the gauge and now my temp gauge is working as well.

The moral of the story is get a factory service manual, trace the circuit, inspect all connections and repair where necessary.

Thanks everyone!
 
Well I bet ya one thing: You learned a lot in this experience. Some that might not be good LOL Melted/ crossed conductors can be the most difficult to run down, because they often defy logic. Intermittents are worse yet, and then you combine the two.....................
 
Yeah man, no question I learned a lot from this experience. Thanks very much for the help.
 
I also installed a voltmeter since I was in there anyway:

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With my key off and the temp sender wire terminal removed from the sender I measure 34 ohms from the terminal to battery negative.

Does this tell me anything? Should this value be close to 0?
Depends on what the engine temp is. I think I pictured the "gauge tester" earlier, let me look..........yeh back in post 5..........

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So with engine cold, sender should be up around 70-75 ohms or more

23 is "mid scale" or somewhere "normal" so if it's only 34, it should have some running warmth in it, warm enough to run the heater but less than "full normal" temp
 
I was mixed up when I posted that particular question, I thought I was testing the ground. Now I know that is the resistance in the sender.

Sender is working just fine.
 
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