Electric fan in lieu of Flex Fan

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dragnknights

dragnknights

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I've got a 70' Dart with a 360 in it. I'm currently using a flex fan, with no shroud, and I'm running an electric fan on the front of the radiator that I turn on when I'm in traffic. Which is working ok. I'd like to take off the flex fan, and move the electric fan to the engine side of the radiator, and use that as my primary fan. Any ideas? Does this work? How can I make it work better etc. Not sure the cfm of the electric fan, but it seems to do pretty good. Thanks!
 
I am dealing with the same question on my Duster. A friend told me that he has seen guys that put an elec. fan in front and back of the radiator that work together. You would probably pick up 5 hp. This is what I am considering anyway. Good luck.
 
You'll pick up more than 5 hp that is for sure.

I did a Perma cool fan on the engine side. While the engine isn't that powerful, it remains cool as is. It has since been moved to a more centered area of the rad.

100_1314.JPG
 
I currently have the same Derale fan as Keith9291 on my 440 with 3 row rad. It's marginal. I'm switching back to an engine driven, 7-blade clutch fan with shroud soon.

I think the addition of a shroud (even with the flex fan) for dragnknights would be the best first step in the right direction.

(Anyone interested in an electric fan and relay system for sale shortly? :) )
 
Don't want to get to far off of the subject, but a friend of mine's co-worker was setting his timing when the water pump shaft broke. The fan of course cam off climbed up his body & tore up his abdominal area, he also got his hand tore-up, fingers cut off etc. The Docs were able to put his fingers back on & in time he will have full use. He was lucky!! Than got me to thinking of using an electric fan mounted on the radiator & an electric water pump drive & a SFI Harmonic Balancer. What do you guys think would this work on the street? In heavy traffic?
 
Let me suggest that the issue of cooling is a bit broader than choosing a fan, shroud or a radiator- but rather it the combination of components and what needs to be cooled.

In my case I had no problem cooling my "warm" 340 with a puller fan on a stock radiator... then came some more mods and I had to add a second fan on the outside to push... then came a 525HP stroker and 11.5/1 compression and I was unable to get the stock radiator to handle it in the summer with any combos of fans or shrouds. Net answer is I suggest a fan/shroud in one persons set-up may not work well for someone else's set-up.

Attached are pix of what did work - Be Cool radiator with twin electrics...... of course that led to all kinds of charging and electrical mods ...... save that for another post!

Kory

Radiator (Small).jpg


WaterToGo 004 (Small).jpg
 
Is your electric fan a pusher or puller? I'm assuming it's a pusher if it's mounted in front of your radiator right now? You can reverse the polarity on some fans and mount it on the engine side and use it as a puller. That's the way my Black Magic fan was anyway. Not sure what you have but it's an idea...

I 2nd the notion of ditching your flex-fan (and electric fan), and running a clutch fan set-up AND shroud...just my 2 cents after having fought this issue basically all last season.

Either that or pop for a nice BeCool dual electric system like Koryliss did...but it does create alot more work!
 
Al,

Simple answer is a sensor (like the one you may be using for your temperature gauge) that goes to a relay which then turns the fan on/off. There are different temperatures available (including some that are variable but these tend to be more expensive) and some that even will turns the fan on slowly and increase the speed as the coolant gets hotter.

They also sence the heat in different ways - some use a probe in the fins of the radiator, some go in the cooling system (like the temperature sensor for your gauge) I saw one that went into the upper radiator hose.

Lots of good sources - Summit or Jegs may be the easiest. Here are some examples:

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...t=PRF-30111&N=700+4294860934+115&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...rt=HDA-3647&N=700+4294860934+115&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...t=FLX-30332&N=700+4294860934+115&autoview=sku

Kory
 
I have an electric fan on the engine side of a stock 3 core radiator. I picked up at least 10 HP over the stock non-flex non-clutch fan, and the fuel economy I now get on the highway as compared to before is ridiculous. I picked up AT LEAST 15% fuel economy on the highway, probably closer to 20%. Even when it's 90* outside the car never gets hot. It's probably the best $100 I ever put into my Dart. I'll certainly be putting one on the Falcon this year.
 
I took my cuda to a radiator shop that has been there for years asking some questions. I want my radiator to have more capacity just in case I get into stop and go traffic in 90 something degree weather. He told me to run a 160 thermostat and I should be fine. The car hasn't over heated or having problems... but my radiator is just a 2 core. He said try the thermo first then we'll go from there. He said don't by the $600 aluminum radiators that they don't absorb heat like the copper does and they don't last as long. He can use my top tank and use a larger bottom tank (the one I have is to small) and have a large tube (instead of small tube) 3 core between $300 and $350. I won't have to fab up brackets or drill new holes. I don't want to do any hole drilling!

I'm running a puller electric fan with 3600 CFM and the sensor is in the intake. I have a switch to cut it off or on but I just leave it on all of the time.

But anyways does this sound like a fair price?
 
I agree with the statment that everyones situation is different. Usually a fan/shoud combo is the least expensive way to go. It's amazing how important a shoud is to cooling.
I have a serious 440 with 12.5 to 1 comp and I started witha crossflow radiator and a pusher and a puller fan, it wasn't enough.
I went to a Be-Cool larger radiator with a shoud and dual fans and my engine runs 180 degrees all day long.
This combo probably is way overkill for your combo, but I'd look at a fan and shoud.
I am also using a CSR electric water pump, pump and fans all on separate relays and sensors.

engine 4-08 010.jpg
 
Try the shroud/motor from a Chevy HHR(I know) but they are cheap and work as good if not better than most aftermarket ones plus they are inexpensive. I bought mine for less than 65 with the connector. Go to www.gmpartsdirect.com
 
sorry I forgot to add this, this is not my car but this is the fan, I got the idea from a post on another site.

PA190010.jpg
 
I run dual electric units, and they are controlled by a probe that goes inbetween the fins on the radiator. There is a small screw that is adjustable. I set mine to kick on right around 195 to 200 degrees, according to the gauge. MPG increased, and the fans kick on high when the AC is on, to get max cooling for air conditioning. It has been a set it and forget it system, never gets hot.

This is on my DD Dodge Ram, by the way.
 
btroxler said:
sorry I forgot to add this, this is not my car but this is the fan, I got the idea from a post on another site.
Click to expand...

How thick is that fan?? Can you put a tape measure on it and approximate?? I have the March serpentine pulley on mine and a 3 row and I have limited clearance.
 
I'm running an electric fan from a 3.8L Furd Taurus. I'm also using the Delta Current Controller Keith9291 mentioned previously. The combo works wonderfully. I can have up to 3800cfm on full controller speed or 2600cfm drawing 15 amps. The fan usually runs very quietly but if it's a hot day in stop and go traffic the fan speed ramps up to whatever is required to keep things at the perfect temp.
 
grimreaper said:
I'm running an electric fan from a 3.8L Furd Taurus. I'm also using the Delta Current Controller Keith9291 mentioned previously. The combo works wonderfully. I can have up to 3800cfm on full controller speed or 2600cfm drawing 15 amps. The fan usually runs very quietly but if it's a hot day in stop and go traffic the fan speed ramps up to whatever is required to keep things at the perfect temp.
Click to expand...

How thick is the Furd Taurus fan??? Or is that a Turd Faurus???
 
Sorry for the slow reply on the Turd Faurus Fan. Also sorry about all the plastic media in the photo. From the radiator core to the back of the motor it's approx. 4-5/8". From the radiator to the edge of the shroud it's approx. 3-1/2".

DSC_0002-1.jpg
 
Thanks grim and bt; that is some good info there for the rest of us.
 
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