Crusty Brian
Active Member
I got a conversion kit from laysons restoration. The car has a 2 spade Ballast resistor but the kit comes with a four spade ballast resistor. Do I need to use the 4 pin? And if so how does this change the set up?
Electronic distributor conversion kit ballast?
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Since we don't now what kit you got, this is a tough one to answer.
Vaanth
Well-Known Member
From the Layson's site, their TM90426, which is the small block V-8 kit, is shown in their following image:
The six cylinder and big block V-8s are similar, although the latter is not pictured on their site. The image shows an instruction sheet.
I have not seen or used this kit, but the instructions likely specify using your two terminal ballast resistor. The original points system resistor was 0.5 ohms which is usable, but anything between 0.5 ohms and 1.25 ohms works. With the two terminal resistor, the green with red tracer wire is not used, nor are the extra female spade terminals, plus your stock ballast resistor wiring remains unchanged.
The four terminal resistor, the female spade terminals, and use of the green with red tracer wire is optional. Using it will allow the use of older, real 5-pin electronic control units (ECUs).
The kit is provided with a 4-pin ECU according to their site. The pictured ECU has five pins, but the fifth pin is likely a "dummy", for looks only.
Wire the system using the following diagram, or what their instruction sheet specifies:
NOTE: the blue and black wires shown here may have a yellow tracer, but are the same otherwise.
If by chance, a real 5-pin ECU is in the kit, the 4-pin ballast resistor and extra wiring will be required. It is unlikely they are using real 5-pin ECUs. In some of the description, they do state using Borg Warner 4-pin ECUs, but their site and information is somewhat limited.
The six cylinder and big block V-8s are similar, although the latter is not pictured on their site. The image shows an instruction sheet.
I have not seen or used this kit, but the instructions likely specify using your two terminal ballast resistor. The original points system resistor was 0.5 ohms which is usable, but anything between 0.5 ohms and 1.25 ohms works. With the two terminal resistor, the green with red tracer wire is not used, nor are the extra female spade terminals, plus your stock ballast resistor wiring remains unchanged.
The four terminal resistor, the female spade terminals, and use of the green with red tracer wire is optional. Using it will allow the use of older, real 5-pin electronic control units (ECUs).
The kit is provided with a 4-pin ECU according to their site. The pictured ECU has five pins, but the fifth pin is likely a "dummy", for looks only.
Wire the system using the following diagram, or what their instruction sheet specifies:
NOTE: the blue and black wires shown here may have a yellow tracer, but are the same otherwise.
If by chance, a real 5-pin ECU is in the kit, the 4-pin ballast resistor and extra wiring will be required. It is unlikely they are using real 5-pin ECUs. In some of the description, they do state using Borg Warner 4-pin ECUs, but their site and information is somewhat limited.
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They have a 5 pin pictured.
Vaanth
Well-Known Member
I know. I can read, sir. I was making a simple observation.
Crusty Brian
Active Member
Thank you for the information! The A body folks are always solid! My kit did not come with instructions, there's no brand name and the QR code thats on the distributor goes to a site that no longer exists. It's for a 383
I would bet money that module is actually a 4 pin. Simple connect it up temporarily with the 4 pin ballast, and unplug the wire leading direct to the module from the ballast. If it quits, the module is a 5 pin
Make sure CERTAIN the module is grounded, use star lock washers.
The wire legend at top right on post three is WRONG. IT does NOT go to the "start" circuit. It goes to the original brown ballas bypass. In face so far as the ballas on the coil side, that wiring is basically unchanged from points to electronic.
Make sure CERTAIN the module is grounded, use star lock washers.
The wire legend at top right on post three is WRONG. IT does NOT go to the "start" circuit. It goes to the original brown ballas bypass. In face so far as the ballas on the coil side, that wiring is basically unchanged from points to electronic.
IGN 2 has power when the key is in the "Start Position"
IGN 1 has power when the key is in the "Run Position"
IGN 1 has power when the key is in the "Run Position"
Mattax
Just the facts, ma'am
I don't know what you're working on but here's what I don't like.
The photo Vaanth posted from Layson's website shows what looks to be a ECU with a fake transistor and yet they are supplying a compensating (5 ohm) resistor) along with the ballast resistor. And no instructions? I don't trust the people who put this kit together. Bet the ballast is far more than .6 ohms. And we have no idea what the distributor has in it, as far as advance curve.
From your photo we see its a torsion bar hood, so before '67
But the ballast is in an odd spot (too me who is not that familiar with the early cars) and the wires to the starter relay are strained, which is bad.
My suggestion is get under hood electrics back to factory positions and there will be less problems down the road.
As far as ignition wiring goes, when starting, there is wire from the key switch the starter relay (S1), the is seperate from the feed to ignition (J3).
if you have '63 the schmatic looks like this
and a '64 is like this
(The battery positive feed wire could also be black depending on year and model)
If you really want to switch to an ECU and magnetic pickup distributor, my suggestion is to get a piggyback connector and place it on the ballast resistor. Then attach the ECU power lead (usually light blue, always from the top of the pentagon connector) to the piggypack using a 1/4 push-on terminal.
Also note that back in the day Chrysler suggested using an electronic voltage regulator when converting to an electronic ignition.
The photo Vaanth posted from Layson's website shows what looks to be a ECU with a fake transistor and yet they are supplying a compensating (5 ohm) resistor) along with the ballast resistor. And no instructions? I don't trust the people who put this kit together. Bet the ballast is far more than .6 ohms. And we have no idea what the distributor has in it, as far as advance curve.
From your photo we see its a torsion bar hood, so before '67
But the ballast is in an odd spot (too me who is not that familiar with the early cars) and the wires to the starter relay are strained, which is bad.
My suggestion is get under hood electrics back to factory positions and there will be less problems down the road.
As far as ignition wiring goes, when starting, there is wire from the key switch the starter relay (S1), the is seperate from the feed to ignition (J3).
if you have '63 the schmatic looks like this
and a '64 is like this
(The battery positive feed wire could also be black depending on year and model)
If you really want to switch to an ECU and magnetic pickup distributor, my suggestion is to get a piggyback connector and place it on the ballast resistor. Then attach the ECU power lead (usually light blue, always from the top of the pentagon connector) to the piggypack using a 1/4 push-on terminal.
Also note that back in the day Chrysler suggested using an electronic voltage regulator when converting to an electronic ignition.
I'm sure glad you made this post.
When I was taking photos I realized I had the ECU powered by the output of the ballast resister rather that the input to the ballast.
It ran fine for 100 miles yesterday that way! Go figure!
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