Enclosed Trailer Questions

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flyfish

C8H18+N2O = :-D
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I have not been on here in a while...life got busy with kid stuff and I didn't race at all last year...Anyway, I'm planning on upgrading from my 18' open trailer to an enclosed trailer before racing season starts. I will be hauling my 67 Barracuda and some tools (that's about it)....Just asking for any advice/things to watch out for on a new trailer. I'm guessing 20' is probably a little short??.....with that said, I'm leaning towards a 24' with 5200 lbs axels. Any brands to stay away from?

Thanks in advance.
 
My suggestion would be go to a 28' trailer. You will be surprised at how much stuff you will want ot take with you to the races. And, if you get the 4' side door, you can load your 4 wheeler or golf cart if you have one. The best move I ever made was going to the 28' trailer. As far as manufactures go, try to stay with one of the better known names. Be sure to bargain with them if you find a trailer and it's mot quite rigged out as you want it.
 
I agree with @Demonracer , they get full fast.
My lil Colt is close with my 20 but I am downsizing!
Get it Down Sizing!?!?
It's a lot smaller than your Barracuda.

I bought my from the trailer mills in Geogia.
Cheaper, but you get what you pay for.
I will only be racing a few times, and only a few trips, so it didn't make sense for me to pay $$$

Most have beaver tails, and LED lights now.
Generator mount, interior lights and a winch are must haves.
And a spare tire.
 
I hauled a 24' while racing my 67 Dart. If your budget allows go for the suggested 28'.
And if you have room to park it.
At times my 24' did get crowded when I was racing B body cars. A really tight fit of a 71 Chrysler Newport,but it fit,barely..
Gvw of 10,000 lbs or better. Driver side escape door a must unless you are spry enough to climb like a monkey.
I have had Pace,Interstate,and Haulmark. All good and held up well and lasted for 100,000 miles each.
 
Most have beaver tails,
Mine did. Forgot about that.Also want to mention a round top to shed water and snow,You being in Indy.
Costs vary.My first was just at $4000 and last was $7800 in 2005. I'm guessing $10,000 + now.
 
I have a Haulmark 20 ft ( all I can fit in my driveway ) I have had since 2000 and its been a great trailer with very few problems I Paid $5600 back in 2000 to replace it today is around $ 14,000 ,as I have been thinking about replacing my current trailer . You get what you pay for is certainly true : I have been researching other brands, Look , Pro Line etc sure they are cheaper but get poor reviews. I spoke to one local Look dealer and he told me they are so bad he stopped selling them .If I do upgrade it will be another Haulmark . My 20 ft is a little tight but my Dart and my D150 fit in with no problem even with my scooter, generator , jack etc. You have an advantage living in Indy as most trailers are built around there and your shipping costs will be low.

56DDB684-04E5-4DD3-B2AA-08DA07438543.jpeg
 
Get a 28 ft. I had both and 24 ft. is a little short . 28 Ft has better tongue weight for towing at speeds on the highway . Haulmark sucks Have 2 and they both have had issues. Full interior models the frame work was not painted and was rusted bad. With no interior they are painted. So when you look at them new you think your interior model has a painted frame work. Also if you plan on adding AC make sure you buy a trailer with the extra roof support. I had to add the support was not fun and that is when I saw the frame work was rotted on a new trailer.

Also get the longer Tongue . Gives extra room for a ladder, generator, or a water tank. And don't for get a cam lock weight distribution hitch. Traveling across country to run a race circuit there are times I found myself doing 80-90 MPH. You didn't even know the trailer was back there. DOT has been pulling us over a lot lately. Register your truck for the combination weight you are towing. trailer should have 7000lb axles for a car with tools. That will give you a 10-12 lb weight with cargo. If it don't have 6 or 8 lugs do't buy it
 
I have a 2020 Fast Cargo 8.5 X 24 enclosed trailer. With my 72 Dart, tool box, pit bike and other stuff it got full fast. A 28' would have been better. One thing I find amazing is how much trailer prices have gone up the last 2 years. I paid $6600 for mine in 2020, now the exact same trailer is double the price! Does anyone have any insight into why this is?
 
I have a 2020 Fast Cargo 8.5 X 24 enclosed trailer. With my 72 Dart, tool box, pit bike and other stuff it got full fast. A 28' would have been better. One thing I find amazing is how much trailer prices have gone up the last 2 years. I paid $6600 for mine in 2020, now the exact same trailer is double the price! Does anyone have any insight into why this is?
Devaluing of the dollar aka Inflation. And they slowed down production of trailer. The margin on trailers is crazy.
 
6,000lb axles and 16" tires is the way to go in the long run. Best to have more capacity than you end up using. I also agree with more length than you think you need. 26-28' should cover your needs. It did mine when I was doing a lot of traveling and it served as a well equipped garage as well with counters, tool storage, oil, filters, spare parts, jack, stands, battery charger, etc. storage. My trailer also has a outside access generator and outlets on the inside and outside. If your trailer has the standard latches on the side doors, add the truck-style swing arms (or whatever they are called) so they actual cover the standard latches and add the extra security of a padlock. Of course, the more you haul, the bigger your truck needs to be, which in this case would be a 3/4 ton minimum.
 
16" tires
Yes. I upgraded mine within the first few months.
I agree with more security on doors. I was robbed at a Holiday Inn in St Louis after a race event over night.
Tool, equipment, and door damage (Standard Latches) They did leave the car alone thankfully.
We walked the parking lot picking up the stuff that they couldn't hawk at their local pawn shop I guess.
I traveled the country racing for a few years.
 
Any reason a 1/2 ton truck rated at 12,000#'s towing couldn't handle a 24'? Figure with the trailer weighing 3800, the car at 3200, you're at 7000#'s. So you have quite a bit of room for tools, jacks, etc before you come close to 12,000#'s. With what I take to the track (I also have a 18' open), I sure don't carry anything close to 1000#'s of addtl "stuff." So I figure I'd be at 8000#'s plus or minus tops. To me, that seems well within the capacity of the truck. Curious as I likewise am looking at a 24' enclosed.
 
1/2 ton truck rated at 12,000#'s towing couldn't handle a 24'?
Yes you can. 1999 New Ram 1/2 ton with a new Haulmark 24'. The 5.2 (for me) was not happy on hills.But it did it.
Did that for awhile then went to a 2001 Ram 3/4 ton V10.Reason was I was towing over 20,000 miles a year.
2003 went to a Dually 1 ton Diesel.
Before 1999 I was using a 95 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.2. They all worked.Had too when it's what ya got.
 
Side door for getting out of the car a must. Unless you like tantric yoga positions. I would replace the “new“ trailer tires immediately with good ones or specify that as part of the initial negotiations. The OEM tires are crap, I blew three of them very rapidly. As previously mentioned go 28 if at all possible. I carry two spares not one.
 
I will suggest adding more tie down positions toward the middle, properly tied to the frame structure underneath like the front and rear car tie down positions should be. I have used my enclosed trailer for moving “stuff” just as much as I did for hauling cars. So glad I added those when it was new.
 
Any reason a 1/2 ton truck rated at 12,000#'s towing couldn't handle a 24'? Figure with the trailer weighing 3800, the car at 3200, you're at 7000#'s. So you have quite a bit of room for tools, jacks, etc before you come close to 12,000#'s. With what I take to the track (I also have a 18' open), I sure don't carry anything close to 1000#'s of addtl "stuff." So I figure I'd be at 8000#'s plus or minus tops. To me, that seems well within the capacity of the truck. Curious as I likewise am looking at a 24' enclosed.
Yes it just ain't gonna work. Need a minimum of a 3/4 ton. They test there towing weights on a flat road at 60 mph. So cut in half what they tell you. Plus if something ever happens to the trailer brakes there is no way to stop that rig on a 1/2 ton brakes. On My 1/2 ton suburban it happened at a total of less than 8000 lbs. with no weight in the vehicle. Please trust me on this your life and the lives of others are at risk.
 
I hauled my Daytona and then 1970 duster in a used 24 foot Haulmark trailer with a workbench and my 250 quad sideways in front of my duster. When I finally bought a new trailer I went with 8 bolt 16 inch wheels 10,000 pound 26 footer. Being 66 and on the heavy side that extra two feet between my duster and quad comes in real handy. If you order new plan out your lights, electrical plugs, winch prep, I went with side vents, smooth side for easier care, spare tire, I had mine pre wired for stereo so four speakers were pre wired and a metal box up front for a car stereo, outside antenna, make sure you get an electrical plug inside the rear door for you battery charger and compressor.
 
Yes it just ain't gonna work. Need a minimum of a 3/4 ton. They test there towing weights on a flat road at 60 mph. So cut in half what they tell you. Plus if something ever happens to the trailer brakes there is no way to stop that rig on a 1/2 ton brakes. On My 1/2 ton suburban it happened at a total of less than 8000 lbs. with no weight in the vehicle. Please trust me on this your life and the lives of others are at risk.
My son owns and operates one of the Biggest Trailer Manufacturers in our
state. He cringes whenever he has to sell a 24 or bigger enclosed trailer
to a customer with a 1/2 truck who insists on one that size.

Try to get 6,000 Lb each a
xles (or even 7,000 lb.)and load range E or higher radials.
Try to get one on 16 inch centers and .040 walls. Get American
made Dexter Axles and hardware even though they cost double what
the Chinese crap does.

For a quality 24 Ft. trailer properly equipped enclosed expect to pay $12,000/ $13,000
set up the right way. If it is a cheaper made in Georgia Trailers = Inspect it closely before
you buy it!

In my opinion you can not build and sell a quality 24 for less than that and pay the employees
a wage that will feed their families and feed my son's family as well even if you are a very high volume
manufacturer.

Smooth sides are fine back East but out West in the Heat and Wind we get they fall apart
a lot. Especially if you scrimp on the thickness of the metal sides.

You will see quite a few of his trailers at Mopars in Vegas in March.
.
 
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My son owns and operates one of the Biggest Trailer Manufacturers in our
state. He cringes whenever he has to sell a 24 or bigger enclosed trailer
to a customer with a 1/2 truck who insists on one that size.

Try to get 6,000 Lb each a
xles (or even 7,000 lb.)and load range E or higher radials.
Try to get one on 16 inch centers and .040 walls. Get American
made Dexter Axles and hardware even though they cost double what
the Chinese crap does.

For a quality 24 Ft. trailer properly equipped enclosed expect to pay $12,000/ $13,000
set up the right way. If it is a cheaper made in Georgia Trailers = Inspect it closely before
you buy it!

In my opinion you can not build and sell a quality 24 for less than that and pay the employees
a wage that will feed their families and feed my son's family as well even if you are a very high volume
manufacturer.

Smooth sides are fine back East but out West in the Heat and Wind we get they fall apart
a lot. Especially if you scrimp on the thickness of the metal sides.

You will see quite a few of his trailers at Mopars in Vegas in March.
.

This is solid advice.

I'm in the market for an enclosed trailer as well, but the prices in the PacNW are absolutely insane
 
Another suggestion from 40+ years building
trailers = Get one at least 7 ft. outside height.
You can use the headroom so you do
not bang cross members with you head and you can
put some high shelves running along the sides and
get junk of the floor.
 
Agree with the above that a 26 or 28 is well worth the extra length and money. I haul a dart in a 24+1 (rounded nose instead of a v) and I would love 2-4 more feet. I can fit a 250 quad in the front sideways with my dart in if for pit riding when racing, and have a cabinet above that, but I'm about out of space. Cant fit my 750 in it with the car. I struggled to place my floor tie downs because of the lack of real estate. The side escape door is also something I regret not getting. I'm 6 foot and 185 ish, and if I was much bigger getting in/out would be a real bugger. It's not fun now.

Mine is a United brand. Happy with the quality. No issues. It's a 2016 I think.

I had a buddy that sold trailers for years in Ohio. His biggest piece of advice was to stay away from trailers manufactured in GA. Allegedly there are some "missing" laws and regulations in GA that allow them to make trailers much less expensive (and of lesser quality) than some other states. I do recall shopping mine years ago, and was shocked how much cheaper they were than the mainstream brands. Take that with a grain of salt, but It seemed plausible given the pricing I found. Looks like others above have similar advice on that too.

Good luck!
 
My son owns and operates one of the Biggest Trailer Manufacturers in our
state. He cringes whenever he has to sell a 24 or bigger enclosed trailer
to a customer with a 1/2 truck who insists on one that size.

Try to get 6,000 Lb each a
xles (or even 7,000 lb.)and load range E or higher radials.
Try to get one on 16 inch centers and .040 walls. Get American
made Dexter Axles and hardware even though they cost double what
the Chinese crap does.

For a quality 24 Ft. trailer properly equipped enclosed expect to pay $12,000/ $13,000
set up the right way. If it is a cheaper made in Georgia Trailers = Inspect it closely before
you buy it!

In my opinion you can not build and sell a quality 24 for less than that and pay the employees
a wage that will feed their families and feed my son's family as well even if you are a very high volume
manufacturer.

Smooth sides are fine back East but out West in the Heat and Wind we get they fall apart
a lot. Especially if you scrimp on the thickness of the metal sides.

You will see quite a few of his trailers at Mopars in Vegas in March.
.
John - are you saying the riveted walls hold up better in the heat than the smooth exterior walls? I assume a min thickness of .040 but even with that, and say a black exterior, don't the panels rip through the rivets in the heat/sun loads?
 
Any reason a 1/2 ton truck rated at 12,000#'s towing couldn't handle a 24'? Figure with the trailer weighing 3800, the car at 3200, you're at 7000#'s. So you have quite a bit of room for tools, jacks, etc before you come close to 12,000#'s. With what I take to the track (I also have a 18' open), I sure don't carry anything close to 1000#'s of addtl "stuff." So I figure I'd be at 8000#'s plus or minus tops. To me, that seems well within the capacity of the truck. Curious as I likewise am looking at a 24' enclosed.
When I first got my 24' enclosed trailer, I was pulling it with a 2017 Ford F150 with the 3.5 twin turbo ecoboost. It pulled the loaded trailer just fine. But I decided to trade it for a RAM 2500 just for the heavier duty chassis.
 
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