Engine build help

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smythge

65 with a BIG BLOCK
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Dec 11, 2005
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At the track on Tuesday I ended up spinning a rod bearing, I have the motor out and will be surveying the damage tonight, but I am look for some suggestions on a good lower end parts. The car will on be run on 110 fuel, and driven about 200 miles a year, 50/50 between strip and street Here are the specs of the car:

65 Dart 2,900 lbs
1967 440 block currently has steel crank with kb pistons (suggestions please)
Stock 906 heads, comp cam springs eventually will go with Eddies or Indys
Mopar .509 / .248 @.50 hydraulic cam
Hughes 2,500 stall
Ford 8.8" rearend with 3.55 but I also have a set of 3.91s I am considering

I am wondering about ideal compression ratio, based on my current set up and thinking about the 440 source stroker kit to make it a 500.
 
I'd be interested to find out the any damage to the crank journal and who's rod bearings were you using. I've built a few BB's over the years and "never" had rod bearing problems especially with 440's pumping 500-600 HP. :scratch:
 
There are some pretty deep grooves in the crank and the bearings are Clevite 77
 
smythge said:
There are some pretty deep grooves in the crank and the bearings are Clevite 77
obviously the crank throw will gave to be repaired, if possible, and go to bastard size bearings. I've never had problems with Clevite. Check the rifle drilling, oil passage, to that bearing and make sure there's nothing in the passage and the hole should be radiused. Was there any damage to the rod bearing on the con rod next to it? You should also check to make sure that the con rod on the bad bearing is not twisted. This will cause a rod bearing to let go.
 
Yeah there is damage to the bearing next to it, I can see scrapes in it and the copper is starting to show.
 
IIRC, this engine was bought rebuilt, wasnt it? Maybe I'm confusing it with another...

For a 2900lbs tire and exhaust limited car, I dont think I'd be building a stroked version. I'd be building a higher horsepower vs torque engine. I'd use the same pistons, to avoid having to bore the block and buy new ones. Just run a quick deglazing hone thru it. If it's only one throw (1 or 2 rods) there's a good chance the machining or clearances were off. If all the rods show signs of heat or oil starvation, or detonation (you can have it, and not hear it) you may have oiling problems. I'd run a forged crank, and replace the rods with decent H beams. Have any rods cycled and inspected for roundnesss and taper. I always stud the mains in an engine that is expected to go over 5500 rpm. If you are not running the newer heads now, I wouldnt build the short for them. Just build it for the 906s and steel head gaskets. Then, when you go for the better heads, you can just bolt them on and go. IMO, the Indys are too large a port even in the std port SR configuration for under 470 cubic inches and peak power below 6500. I'd recommend Edelbrocks. Make sure the block gets cleaned out..pull the cam bearings, that kind of thing... Get all the shrapnel out.
 
smythge said:
Yeah there is damage to the bearing next to it, I can see scrapes in it and the copper is starting to show.
Sounds to me like insufficent oil or the bearings were assembled with not enough radial or side clearance. Either way the crank, if reusable, needs to be gone over with a fine tooth comb. :evil2:
 
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