Engine cranks but won't start

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7duster4

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Over the course of four days I replaced the following on my 318. Voltage regulator, new spark plugs and a MSD blaster coil. The car cranks but will not fire up. I am thinking I did something wrong when hooking the coil up but everything looks good. Sounds fine when cranking but will not engage. All the spark plug wire boots are tight as well. What are the steps to solve this problem?

Thanks for any info.
 
Pull the coil wire off at the dist and crank the engine.Does it spark?
Maybe you crossed the coil wires + and -
 
is the voltage regulator securely fastened to the firewall?

Is the coil MADE for your application? meaning it's MADE to run with a car with a ballast resistor?
 
is the voltage regulator securely fastened to the firewall?

Is the coil MADE for your application? meaning it's MADE to run with a car with a ballast resistor?

I made sure the regulator bolts were on tight. A couple friends of mine reccomended the coil. They have it on there small blocks with no issues. The instructions only state using one of there higher output ballast only with points ignition.

68383GTS - I will give that a shot tomorrow evening. I am positive the wires are in the right terminals but it never hurts to double check.

Thanks everyone
 
Did you replace the ballast resistor??? If you have electronic ignition the pickup module might be bad... When you release the key does it want to fire???? Had that happen to me...Also make sure your ignition box is grounded.

Bob
 
Did you replace the ballast resistor??? If you have electronic ignition the pickup module might be bad... When you release the key does it want to fire???? Had that happen to me...Also make sure your ignition box is grounded.

Bob

I did not replace the ballast resistor. It's a couple years old though. When the key is released it does not want to fire. I did look at the ballast and seemed to be okay as far as being grounded. It was also warm but I have read that is normal. I had the car out less than a week ago which leads me to think something went wrong tonight when installing the coil. I hope it's something simple.

Thanks
 
check the voltage on either side of the ballast resistor..

and make sure you have the positive and negative wires on the new correctly
 
Make sure you have hot when the key is on, and when cranking, check it with a multi-meter.I had a similar problem when doing an ignition upgrade on my valiant.
 
Found the problem. Turned out to be simple. I had two wires going to the positive and one to the negative. That was the tach wire. The second one from the positive goes to the negative. So the coil issue is solved. But after all this cranking the relay is shot. I have been going through these like crazy. Is it the constant cranking that shortens the life of these things? Had to use a flat blade to bypass the relay in order to fire it up. I had an old, used spare lying around. I put that on and still nothing. Looks like another $17 for a new one.

Also is the ballast resistor supposed to get so hot? I can barley touch it with the key on. I would hope it cools off once the car is moving and air is flowing in.
 
Yep ballast resistors are supposed to be hot.Buy a good relay the cheap ones are junk they do not last. Jim
 
Yep ballast resistors are supposed to be hot.Buy a good relay the cheap ones are junk they do not last. Jim


Who makes good relays? Seems like they are all foreign parts. I have used "standard ignition" (The more expensive part not the cheap one $17 vs $5) The one currently on it is a duralast that is only a couple months old, if that. What brand do you reccomend?

Thanks
 
Who makes good relays? Seems like they are all foreign parts. I have used "standard ignition" (The more expensive part not the cheap one $17 vs $5) The one currently on it is a duralast that is only a couple months old, if that. What brand do you reccomend?

Thanks

Not sure if good or not, but AC DELCO is a brand name... they have one for 5.76 at rockauto.com
 
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