Engine Install with TTI Headers

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Sorry fastback..I tried to take some pics...everythings so tight and high on the cooling lines I re-routed... ya can't see at all. Like I said earlier - I was lucky to have the trans and engine out and together so that I could do a dry run with the headers/starter on and did my own bending. Perhaps someone knows something of flexable tubing or another "frame" route now that their in..
Let us know.
 
Like Johnny said, from the bottom is the BEST way to do it. We just did a 70 challenger with motor, trans, trans xmember, starter, kframe, headers, steering box all in 1 shot.
 
69signetv8 said:
Sorry fastback..I tried to take some pics...everythings so tight and high the line I re-routed... ya can't see at all. Like I said earlier - I was lucky to have the trans and engine out and together so that I could do a dry run with the headers/starter on and did my own bending. Perhaps someone knows something of flexable tubing or another "frame" route now that their in..
Let us know.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure how all the other guys did it however, this is my "quick" drawing to give you an idea how I re-routed the trans lines. They lay just above the pan lip now missing the header tubes that are tight against the pan. They then drop back down just forward of the mount to the rad. The ***** was bending around the starter area... missing the kickdown etc.

scan.jpg
 
69signetv8 said:
Sorry fastback..I tried to take some pics...everythings so tight and high the line I re-routed... ya can't see at all. Like I said earlier - I was lucky to have the trans and engine out and together so that I could do a dry run with the headers/starter on and did my own bending. Perhaps someone knows something of flexable tubing or another "frame" route now that their in..
Let us know.
Click to expand...

Yep, wish I would have mocked it up before installing. I ran cheap headers in the past and it wasn't that big of a deal to modify the trans lines. But the way these TTIs run close to the oil pan its going to be painful to deal with now.
 
Hey 68, great diagram. I believe that is the only way they can be routed from what I am seeing. I am thinking of doing compression fittings just to the rear of the motor mount and keep the existing lines to the front forward. Then rebend the lines from the fittings back. I think I am going to temporarily put starter in, take pictures, then remove starter and header, then deal with these trans lines. Everything is now on how until I get those lines straightened out.
 
i have ttis and ran my stainless lines alright...they come close to touching but so does everything else under there.
 
redfastback said:
Like Johnny said, from the bottom is the BEST way to do it. We just did a 70 challenger with motor, trans, trans xmember, starter, kframe, headers, steering box all in 1 shot.
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Doing it this way, you have enough room to crawl under and bolt up the k-frame and trans mount? Sure sounds like a great way to do it.
 
69 Valiant Kid said:
i have ttis and ran my stainless lines alright...they come close to touching but so does everything else under there.
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What..you ran your orginal lines without a touch...well you lucky-man! I agee, everything is tight and close is alright if not touching....

Well, my headers (TTIs) were laying against the orginal cooling lines and the lines had no slack at all for any amount of extra bending or to move them out of the way of the headers. Perhaps "some" models cooling lines were located a tad diffrently or (somewhat).

The problem being, and the way I see it is that these arn't "heating" lines, there "cooling" lines. Any extra hot spots on them or laying against header tubes won't or can't help keep your trans any cooler.

Perhaps again this is no big deal - Just my point of view Valiant Kid.
 
As far as the trans lines go, I made such a mess of mine by the time I bent, kinked and squashed them to try and get them to clear the TTI's that after giving it some thought overnight I pulled them out completely and ran flexible line down the chassis rail.
I don't have a cooler in the radiator [aluminium] so I ran them straight out through the radiator support panel to a large cooler in front of the radiator.
You probably can get them to clear the headers but there is so little room left that you will have the headers heating up your trans fluid.
 
raymond said:
As far as the trans lines go, I made such a mess of mine by the time I bent, kinked and squashed them to try and get them to clear the TTI's that after giving it some thought overnight I pulled them out completely and ran flexible line down the chassis rail.
I don't have a cooler in the radiator [aluminium] so I ran them straight out through the radiator support panel to a large cooler in front of the radiator.
You probably can get them to clear the headers but there is so little room left that you will have the headers heating up your trans fluid.
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I hear ya! flexible line down the rail is a good choice. (perhaps the best)
 
'70_Duster_340 said:
Doing it this way, you have enough room to crawl under and bolt up the k-frame and trans mount? Sure sounds like a great way to do it.
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In a nut shell YES ! No problem.
It is so easy installing the motor this way,it almost isnt fair.8)
 
raymond said:
As far as the trans lines go, I made such a mess of mine by the time I bent, kinked and squashed them to try and get them to clear the TTI's that after giving it some thought overnight I pulled them out completely and ran flexible line down the chassis rail.
I don't have a cooler in the radiator [aluminium] so I ran them straight out through the radiator support panel to a large cooler in front of the radiator.
You probably can get them to clear the headers but there is so little room left that you will have the headers heating up your trans fluid.
Click to expand...

Where did you get the flexible line from and what are the specs for that line (fitting types etc)?
 
I had fine lines in my Scamp. 904 trans. The lines needed some tweeking to clear the headers and the positive battery cable was about 1.5" short but everything else fit fine.
 
I ran -6 steel braided hose all the way. My lines were on backorder when I was doing my car, so I ran this hose to my trans and cooler. I'll get pics up when I can.
 
Thanks everyone for all the ideas. I used my old engine/trans and took the header back off the car to put on the old engine in order to mock up the lines. Bolted starter to the old engine to. Then I carefully bent up the new lines out of 5/16" tubing I got at a local auto parts store. I had to use a compression fitting and the forward part of the return line because 5' was not long enough. The feed line is one piece though. Here are the pics:

OrigEngineTrans.jpg


TransLines1.jpg


TransLines2.jpg


TransLines3.jpg
 
340sFastback said:
Where did you get the flexible line from and what are the specs for that line (fitting types etc)?
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It was available at the local parts store here in Oz, it's looks like 5/16" rubber fuel line but it is specially made to resist the heat of the trans fluid. It has 'transmission cooler line' stamped into it every few inches, thats about all the info I have on it.
There is not a huge amount of pressure in these lines so there is little need for super high pressure hydraulic type lines and fittings. these cooler lines don't run anywhere near the internal working pressures of the trans.
 
Raymond, I know what you mean. Fuel line type hose won't work because it will crack and fail fairly quickly but that trans hose will hold up for years to come.
 
69signetv8 said:
Right on Bill...Most Excellent!!
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The best part: I bought four of the 5' lengths of tubing in case I messed up. They were $10 each which came to $40 (ouch!). I was able to bend them up right the first time so now I get to take two of the unused tubes back for a $20 refund!!
 
Looks good! So it looks like you got the engine, trans in the car already, but no headers?
 
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