engine install

-
RustyRatRod said:
I asked him in his early A thread what holds the car up. I am not familiar with it. Coil overs? There was nothing showing it. Just the K frame and control arms and such. I am assuming it eliminates the T bars, but with no answer............
Click to expand...

sounds great, but, a motor plate, aftermarket k frame w/ no motormount stands, 7 foot ceiling heighth, home reworked cherry picker that I got on a trade about 25 yrs ago, says put it in over the top for me! :coffee2:
 
moper said:
He's using a motor plate. That means it's not attached to the K frame... It goes from the top. If you're using a stock-type sump oil pan it's easiest to do engine and trans together unless you're also using a mid-plate. You might want to leave the water pump off the housing. If you're using a deep sump pan it's easier to stick the trans in, then install the convertor, then drop in the engine.
Click to expand...

I realize that. My comments were not necessarily aimed at the OP, although we've gone in from the bottom using a motor plate. It's not difficult at all. It all depends on when the motor plate is installed.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I asked him in his early A thread what holds the car up. I am not familiar with it. Coil overs? There was nothing showing it. Just the K frame and control arms and such. I am assuming it eliminates the T bars, but with no answer............
Click to expand...

It is a coil-over conversion....they are just not on yet......I thought you were sarcastically responding to the previous post from someone talking about measuring the hub to frame distance at ride height without a wheel /tire on it......I didn't know it was a serious question.

the picture you see/ saw is one I took with my phone during INITIAL mock-up...I did not even have the early A body upper shock mount finished and was merely checking fitment and UCA / LCA movement while waiting for the upper mount to be finalized.

all I can say is....ooops.....I mis-read your question
 
Old Man Mopar said:
Shouldn't be an issue. It's not necessary to stand the car on it's back bumper.
In fact, if you put the back tires on a set of ramps it's better still. Note how high
Dartn440's car is from the above post. He could have done it with a 6' ceiling!

attachment.php

Photo Courtesy of Dartn440
Click to expand...

Those wheeled channels could be adjusted up with pins. Didn't take much more to roll motor, trans, and front suspension right under. Standard 8 ft ceiling.
 
HemiDenny said:
It is a coil-over conversion....they are just not on yet......I thought you were sarcastically responding to the previous post from someone talking about measuring the hub to frame distance at ride height without a wheel /tire on it......I didn't know it was a serious question.

the picture you see/ saw is one I took with my phone during INITIAL mock-up...I did not even have the early A body upper shock mount finished and was merely checking fitment and UCA / LCA movement while waiting for the upper mount to be finalized.

all I can say is....ooops.....I mis-read your question
Click to expand...

No it was a serious question.
 
Here is one good reason for sliding the build under. Imagine dropping this over the top and getting it past the power steering box??
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0852_0161.jpg
    44.4 KB · Views: 123
Im not opposes to going in from the bottom its just more logical for me to go thru the top, snce im not worried about scratchin a lil paint, its go before show to me lol, im sure it would workout much smoother setting the body onto the k member but seems like extra work
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top