Engine oil

[fratzog lover]

Rotella is NOT what it used to be.

 

[jimjimjimmy]

http://www.hughesengines.com/TechArticles/6moreoilinformationdieseloil.php

when you dont sell a product you usually dont promote it . in the real world shell rotella has served me very well for many thousands of hours of use in all my engines and my mopars are solid flat tappet cams with fair spring pressures but i do put a few ounces of lucas breakin oil.this is just my experience and i do get a good deal on this oil plus i can write it off also i'm not sayin its the best but your cam wont go flat from using it like the article says either.

 

[BIG-B-Barracuda]

when you dont sell a product you usually dont promote it . in the real world shell rotella has served me very well for many thousands of hours of use in all my engines and my mopars are solid flat tappet cams with fair spring pressures but i do put a few ounces of lucas breakin oil.this is just my experience and i do get a good deal on this oil plus i can write it off also i'm not sayin its the best but your cam wont go flat from using it like the article says either.

nicely put just saying whats worked for me in the past'

 

[jerry6]

do you guys think synthetic oil is worth the extra money?

I do , have used synthetic for 30 years , my last 3 cars had over 250,000 miles on them and when I opened them up they looked new .

 

[RAMM]

Rotella is NOT what it used to be.

Still better than most other conventional oils. J.Rob

 

[TrailBeast]

I do , have used synthetic for 30 years , my last 3 cars had over 250,000 miles on them and when I opened them up they looked new .

Our last two both doubled that on Castrol GTX.

 

[RAMM]

I usually don't comment on the oil threads. My thoughts are even with a roller cam you need the zinc/phosphate components in the oil, it still provides a "protective barrier". You still have metal to metal contact between components. Rocker arms to shafts, push rods to rocker, lifters to lifter bore, piston to bore etc. With the increased spring pressures that go along with roller cams there's even more load concentrated on rocker arms , pushrods and side loading of the lifter in the bore. Of course this is my opinion and they are like everything else.

Almost all engines since the late '80's have been rollerized--they do just fine on regular plain Jane oil under most operating conditions. I get this question all the time when I build a roller cammed engine for someone--"What oil do you recommend?" My reply--"Whatever you want". If its not a marine or oval track or some other severe race condition--I don't care what it is as long as it can handle the heat and hold a given pressure. Are some oils better than others? Sure. Will a great oil save your engine if something is wrong? Doubtful--It will only extend the inevitable and not by much either. J.Rob

 

[Gator]

Old school guy here. Been running Pennzoil 10W-40 with a can of STP at every oil change which contains the needed Zinc for flat tappets. Been doing this route for years and have not had any issues what so ever..and my car is NO grocery getter either. Very Very well Built SB....

 

[fratzog lover]

You are correct RAMM. I still occasionally pick up T6 when its on sale. Synthetic only for summer and winter. I just now switched to Mobil 1 5w30 in the 360 after 4000 miles on dino oil. Everything broke in just fine. As long as you have enough zinc and the oil is clean, failures are not common. I go 6k when using dino and about 8 on synthetic, but change filters and add a fresh quart halfway through, at about 3500 miles. At Napa filters are always on sale so I stock up. Been doing that for 40 years and have yet to lose an engine, and I run em like I'm still 17.

 

[trapster]

is Rotella t5 any different

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/shell-rotella-t5-15w-40-synthetic-blend-engine-oil-1-gal

 

[BuckeyeAlex]

If you end up needing some in a hurry, Doles Automotive keeps Royal Purple in stock. He's on 327 between Wellston and Chillicothe.

 

[modracerx]

back in the day when mobil 1 first came out is was billed as being a 25,000 mile oil between changes ....great selling point ....not so good for repeat sales so they dropped that fast ...i had company cars back then with an allowance for gas and maintenance ....got a brand new 96 monte carlo red ....nice car ... two door ...at 5000 miles i put mobil 1... 5/30....with a fram filter everytime.....you know the rest ...lol.... changed it at ....25,000....50,000.....100,000....150,000....got a new car at 186,000 !!!!! new added a drop of oil between changes ...pull the cap on the valve cover you could eat inside there ...that **** is the real deal ...proved it time and time again in my race cars ....8000 rpm 150 mile races ...some times the nose beat up bad with no air flow ...water at 265 ....oil temp buried on the gauge coming up the other side ...lol....never a motor failure ....nothing like that kind of abuse will you get in a street or strip car for that long of a time ....i think today all the top of the line name brand or racing synthetic oils will do you right ....jmo ... with facts to back it up

 

[fratzog lover]

T5 is 10w30 and not full synthetic.

 

[MrJLR]

Almost all engines since the late '80's have been rollerized--they do just fine on regular plain Jane oil under most operating conditions. I get this question all the time when I build a roller cammed engine for someone--"What oil do you recommend?" My reply--"Whatever you want". If its not a marine or oval track or some other severe race condition--I don't care what it is as long as it can handle the heat and hold a given pressure. Are some oils better than others? Sure. Will a great oil save your engine if something is wrong? Doubtful--It will only extend the inevitable and not by much either. J.Rob

I agree!