Engine placement

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Broke Farmer

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Is there a general consensus on proper engine placement and geometry for a big block in an 69 style A body?

Making some adjustments over the winter and was curious as to what others have on engine placement? Now would be the time if I am all wrong.

I have a homemade engine mount kit placed on a slant 6 k frame from the 80’s and wondered how others have their engine in their car.

I have about 1 1/4 inch from each head to the firewall. Engine is level but dips in back a shade over one inch when tied to transmission and crossmember.

Engine install essentially requires slip in with trans attached as back of block right at firewall. Kind of a PIA process.
I don’t particularly like that geometry and was wondering what changes have been made in the last 40 years to make install and geometry more efficient.

I have a set of hooker headers I need to fit which is why the block is in the car mocked up. Going away from my old pro parts headers because they just leaked too much with for my comfort with the sniper efi.

My side to side is level and there is appropriate offset for the steering.

Any comparisons, criticisms and comments will be well taken.

Thanks!

0AFCE9C3-7A54-47EA-B32F-C6B5E192CC16.jpeg


0DE22310-7D4C-4648-ACCD-B85F993295CB.jpeg


E76F1D87-24B8-497A-A250-44A1ADD59649.jpeg
 
I own an original 383 cuda 1968. With homemade motor mounts it is hard to advise you but your pass. side seems too close.
 
To the firewall or the fender well?

Each head has about 1 1/4 to the firewall.
I have 4 inches from number 2 plug hole to fender well and 6 inches from number one to fender well.

I think the whole thing is likely too far back but we built it for Stock class racing. Which is why it is a bit set back more than stock mounts.

I wouldn’t be opposed to moving it forward just so I could drop trans without pulling engine though!
 
If the trans crossmember is in the stock location, that pretty much determines fore and aft. IIRC the K frame to crank centerline should be between 5 1/4 and 5 1/2 inches.
 
Mine is this close with the six pack.........
1669166952501.png


I can still get the top two bell bolts .............

1669167071440.png
 
qkcuda said:
If the trans crossmember is in the stock location, that pretty much determines fore and aft. IIRC the K frame to crank centerline should be between 5 1/4 and 5 1/2 inches.
Click to expand...
This rat cheer ^^^^^^ Just bolt on a transmission and bolt it to the cross member. It'll pretty much fall in place.
 
My cross member is dead nuts in place when trans bolted on with factory placement. Depth must be right. Won’t worry about height then.

Thanks
 
Broke Farmer said:
My cross member is dead nuts in place when trans bolted on with factory placement. Depth must be right. Won’t worry about height then.

Thanks
Click to expand...
If you look in the FSM, you'll see a spec for the transmission tail shaft angle. Get that right with the engine height and you'll have it at the correct height.
 
Fan motor? Not sure what you mean. I currently have a flex fan mounted to water pump but going to electric fans on radiator as part of this winters changes.

My trans crossmember sits right as it should but going to check what Rusty Rat Rod said about trans angle.


Will keep plugging away
 
Broke Farmer said:
Fan motor? Not sure what you mean. I currently have a flex fan mounted to water pump but going to electric fans on radiator as part of this winters changes.

My trans crossmember sits right as it should but going to check what Rusty Rat Rod said about trans angle.


Will keep plugging away
Click to expand...
Did you check with TTI?

Footnote #39
 
Broke Farmer said:
Fan motor? Not sure what you mean. I currently have a flex fan mounted to water pump but going to electric fans on radiator as part of this winters changes.

My trans crossmember sits right as it should but going to check what Rusty Rat Rod said about trans angle.


Will keep plugging away
Click to expand...
He means the heater blower motor.
 
Ah. Ok. Now I’m tracking. Yes, I can put my blower motor on.

As far as TTI those specs are used for the general use of their products. If within their number then their products work per the chart.

I’m more apt to go with how the trans crossmember hits.

Those of us old enough to remember swapping out slants for big blocks before the internet and aftermarket parts know that quality control was not a Ma Mopar thing. Many of these cars are different and a half inch from torsion bar to spring box can mean a lot with how the car tracks under load.

In this day and age with all the products and tech available we are making these cars do things they were never intended to be able to do.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Heresy!
Click to expand...
You are so right. Which is why I am trying to make amends for past sins on my sons car. Keeping the slant and putting multiport and turbo on it.

My 69 big block handles like a pig. Hoping for something better with the slant! Ha

930E2122-A51D-4939-BF81-2E906A5B0009.jpeg
 
Broke Farmer said:
You are so right. Which is why I am trying to make amends for past sins on my sons car. Keeping the slant and putting multiport and turbo on it.

My 69 big block handles like a pig. Hoping for something better with the slant! Ha

View attachment 1716014009
Click to expand...
Well hot dog! Have you got a build thread on it?
 
I haven’t put one together. It’s gonna be a cool little car.
Narrowed an 8 3/4 withXD springs. New front end with QA1 upper and lower control arms. 4 wheel disc brakes
Already ordered Gill welding intake and turbo kit. (Super nice guy by the way)

New interior etc.

Was a basket case project that we got in pieces. A built not bought project.

We’ve been doing it together.
Engine at machine shop now.

Barn yard paint job. Ha
 
qkcuda said:
If the trans crossmember is in the stock location, that pretty much determines fore and aft. IIRC the K frame to crank centerline should be between 5 1/4 and 5 1/2 inches.
Click to expand...
What does IIRC mean?
 
If I remember correctly. I usually don't use short forms, but I was too lazy to type it.
 
The new hooker super comps laid in nicely. Engine level and factory trans crossmember still sets right.
Plan to rosebud a couple pipes after filling with sand to see if I can gain some tire clearance.

Have engine back out and assembling.

Anybody else get angry about shimming roller rockers? Sheesh what a PIA.

3CA23DBD-2D72-429A-9BB6-4716125FAA34.jpeg


9340B6C1-5847-4EC4-A06E-0FB22FBEF5CC.jpeg
 
Broke Farmer said:
Is there a general consensus on proper engine placement and geometry for a big block in an 69 style A body?

Making some adjustments over the winter and was curious as to what others have on engine placement? Now would be the time if I am all wrong.

I have a homemade engine mount kit placed on a slant 6 k frame from the 80’s and wondered how others have their engine in their car.

I have about 1 1/4 inch from each head to the firewall. Engine is level but dips in back a shade over one inch when tied to transmission and crossmember.

Engine install essentially requires slip in with trans attached as back of block right at firewall. Kind of a PIA process.
I don’t particularly like that geometry and was wondering what changes have been made in the last 40 years to make install and geometry more efficient.

I have a set of hooker headers I need to fit which is why the block is in the car mocked up. Going away from my old pro parts headers because they just leaked too much with for my comfort with the sniper efi.

My side to side is level and there is appropriate offset for the steering.

Any comparisons, criticisms and comments will be well taken.

Thanks!

View attachment 1716013909

View attachment 1716013910

View attachment 1716013911
Click to expand...
Generally it should be located off of the transmission crossmember. Trans bolted in first, then motor mounts placed. That is over simplification, but how it is recommended. Sorry if this was already touched on, I did not read the entire thread.

Also, if racing, it should be as far back as you can get it.
 
Broke Farmer said:
Engine is level but dips in back a shade over one inch when tied to transmission and crossmember.
Click to expand...
FWIW on the engine height - my engine sits high in the front on a pair of elephant ears. If the K-frame isn't cut for the oil pump, it's necessary for the front to be higher than level.

Mine's up so high there's room to fit a finger in between the oil pump and the K-frame mounting bracket. Maybe that's a little bit too much I guess but it's the way it came to me. Planning to change engines, and if it stays B/RB I will use a TransDapt kit so it bolts to the K-frame (after cutting for the oil pump)

You can kind of see it here - the camera was level with the fender.
400enginesideview.jpg
 
Broke Farmer said:
You are so right. Which is why I am trying to make amends for past sins on my sons car. Keeping the slant and putting multiport and turbo on it.

My 69 big block handles like a pig. Hoping for something better with the slant! Ha

View attachment 1716014009
Click to expand...
If your '69 big block handles like a pig you built it wrong for handling. With modern tires and shocks, added sway bar and bigger torsion bars these cars can handle well with a big block. And, quite frankly, if you don't do the same thing with the slant, it will still handle like a pig...


383/4sp

 
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