engine stalls when put into drive

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timbizz

timbizz

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I have a 1969 /6 dart . just put in a rebuilt 1978 supper six engine and 904 tranny with a B&M shift kit installed in it. The engine runs great starts right up idles smooth The problem im having is when put into drive or reverse the engine stalls.even if i keep my foot on the gas it will still stall. I adjusted liffters checked vacuum 20 psi timming set at 12*checked air fuel mixture checked for voltage drop (msd 6 a magnetic pick up distributor) EGR has been blanked off.I dont know what it could be I drove this car (1978 aspen) around before I pulled the motor and tranny and it was fine . Any help would be much appreciated
 
double check all your vacuum hoses. 1 bad air leak from the intake manifold will make the engine die when thrown in gear. your carburetor may be set rich enough that it compensates until you need the power. don't rev up the motor and slam it in gear because the 904 torque converters are very sensitive and you'll crack the hub on the converter, and then you'll have tranny fluid leaks driving down the street. are the motor and tranny both from the Aspen?
 
1965_belvedere said:
double check all your vacuum hoses. 1 bad air leak from the intake manifold will make the engine die when thrown in gear. your carburetor may be set rich enough that it compensates until you need the power. don't rev up the motor and slam it in gear because the 904 torque converters are very sensitive and you'll crack the hub on the converter, and then you'll have tranny fluid leaks driving down the street. are the motor and tranny both from the Aspen?
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Thanks for your fast reply yes motor and tranny are from the same car I pulled the motor and tranny and rebuilt motor and installed B&M shift kit in tranny and put it in the car.
 
In 1978 they started using lock up convertors, sounds like there is a problem with the valve body causing the convertor clutch to be applied all the time.
 
brian6pac said:
In 1978 they started using lock up convertors, sounds like there is a problem with the valve body causing the convertor clutch to be applied all the time.
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I had a mechanic friend install a B&M shift kit in the tranny maybe something went wrong with the install
 
Same thing happened with a friend's /6 in a station wagon years ago. Turned out to be the carb was just loose enough to cause a vacuum leak.
 
That Would be nice if that was the problem but I checked and capped all the vacuum lines. covered the carburetor and it stalls like it should
 
My 69 Dart slant was like that for decades. I think it was always idling lean. A 4th carburetor (Holley 1920) fixed it. Another symptom was that when trying to optimize the idle spark advance, it liked a lot more advance. Increasing to 10 deg BTDC and the engine rpm would increase, increasing advance even more. I think it needs more advance when lean. If ever doing exhaust work, weld an O2 sensor bung in. You can get inexpensive rich/lean indicators, or go w/ a wideband monitor for more fidelity.
 
BillGrissom said:
My 69 Dart slant was like that for decades. I think it was always idling lean. A 4th carburetor (Holley 1920) fixed it. Another symptom was that when trying to optimize the idle spark advance, it liked a lot more advance. Increasing to 10 deg BTDC and the engine rpm would increase, increasing advance even more. I think it needs more advance when lean. If ever doing exhaust work, weld an O2 sensor bung in. You can get inexpensive rich/lean indicators, or go w/ a wideband monitor for more fidelity.
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It seems my issue is definitely transmission related.( i'm going to bring it to the transmission shop to have them check the valve body .I like the idea about welding in the O2 sensor bung
 
timbizz said:
It seems my issue is definitely transmission related.( i'm going to bring it to the transmission shop to have them check the valve body .I like the idea about welding in the O2 sensor bung
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I just want to thank everybody for their help in figuring this out and to close this. The valve body was telling the torque converter to lock up. transmission guy suggested to weld the center hole of the shaft so the torque converter does not get fluid and will not lockup and it worked. And he only charged me $350
 
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