explorer 8.8 in an a-body: experience needed

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dusterbd13

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so we've decided beyond a reasonable doubt that the 8.75 in my duster is done for. its a damn shame since its got new brakes, fresh moser axles, etc.

with that being said, I'm not spending 900 to rebuild the hogshead (cheapest i could find around here).

i however have read and heard about using the ford explorer 8.8 instead. supposedly just as strong as the 8.75.

found one local with rear disc, 3.55, locker, all the cables, lines, hardware, etc., and a 90 day warranty for 200. i cant pass that up.

what I'm looking for is a couple of things.
some guys have put them in at their normal length by just relocating the axle mounting points. this is actually what id like to do, as I'm currently running 1 inch spacers to make my bullitt wheels fit. the explorer rear is 2 inches wider than the stock small bolt 8.75 (any idea what that would be difference wise since I've got the big bolt brakes?) so i would be spot on in theory for my wheels.

the questions i have are:
1. any pictures of it done this way? I'm concerned about clearance with my TTI 3 inch exhaust.
2. what have people done with the master and proportioning system to account for the rear discs?
3. how have you been hooking up the e-brake?
4. how quiet is it?
5. what have you done to hook that funky plate to our mopar drive shafts?
6. will my drive shaft need to be shortened?
7. what am i looking at as far as the hydraulics are concerned?
8. anything I'm not thinking of?

please let me know as soon as you can, I'm planning on going down to the yard on Monday to get it before someone else does.

thanks
michael
 
Um I'm sure that anyone will say this. If your 8 3/4 is toast that 8.8 wont hold up. Maybe if its properly set up and prepped but not a chance stock.
 
72ScampTramp said:
Um I'm sure that anyone will say this. If your 8 3/4 is toast that 8.8 wont hold up. Maybe if its properly set up and prepped but not a chance stock.
Click to expand...
I've never rebuilt one, but it would seem to be better to rebuild the one you have then to put a PHORD part in it, what went south?? gears?? posi?? both?? just my .02
 
gears and bearings went south. bearings prsumably went first, followed closely by the gears.

and i know most guys sont like to interbreed, but it doesnt bother me a bit.

michael
 
Shop around,centers with gears are not $900. New bearings and seals.Have a machine shop press them off and press new ones on.You will be way ahead with this approach.
 
I don't think the 8.8 is on par strength wise with an 8.75, I would think it would be more on par with an 8.25. But anyway, I was told that the explorer diff is off center, if it is that would increase the difficulty of installing it in a mopar by a large amount.
 
Is this a drag car? Sorry, I am not familiar with your ride.

I broke a couple 8 3/4s back to back, prior to switching to a Dana 60. Maybe things have changed, but I would go 9 inch Ford, if you can't go with a Dana 60.
 
I worked for ford and who ever said that the 8.8 is stronger or as strong as the 8.75 is full of it.I used rebuild them 8.8s at least one a month.They are by far not a strong rear I would say as strong as a 7.25. Mark
 
a Ford rear in a Mopar should be any different then a Chevy engine in a Mopar, should it??

BTW, you can find 489 cases and some 742 complete with gears for under 350 bucks and use your suregrip in it. I personally would not even think that the 8.8 is anywhere as strong as a 8.75

Check craigslist and salvage yards in your neighborhood
 
Man I know I am gonna take some beatings for this.. but I gotta jump in here.

I put an 8.8 explorer (373 gears, posi, 4.5 bolt pattern and disc brakes) rear under my 67' dart. For the price I couldn't beat it.. I think I have under 300 total into the project. I had the long side axle tube shortened for 100 bucks, I got the rear and a short side axle shaft from the bone yard. I put new discs and pads on it.

I don't have many miles on it.. since I tore the motor our shortly after getting it up and running but so far I am really happy with it.

I know there is a huge debate how strong they are, I have a buddy running one in his mustang for years running in the 11's and hasn't had an issue.

For the 300 bucks it's worth a try.. I couldn't get a decent suregrip 8.75 center for that price.

just my 2 cents..
 
I dont know about using a 8.8 in place of a 8 3/4.
I have played around with 8.8's a little.
I have one in my Jeep Wrangler I wheel. Pretty tough axle.
The post 1998's are 31 spline axles & disc brakes.
Moser makes a c clip elimintator kit.
with that and strong gears and welding the tubes to the center it makes them pretty strong.

In the wheeling world they are considered stronger than a Dana 44 and almost as strong as a D 60,with the above parts.

There is alot of aftermarket support for them and you can buy them dirt cheap.

IMO it would be better to put the $$ into your 8 3/4.
 
i am not equipped to rebuild my hogshead myself. the good shop a few town over qupted me 900.

this is my 4th bad hogshead in a row. this one lasted longer than the rest, though. well, except for the 3.23 sure grip. that was a good one....

to be honest, im getting sick of the 8.75 goving me crap every time i turn around.
shopping for the parts myself
overhaul kit for bearings and other parts: 221
gears: 359
axle bearings 60

total 640
not including install
or rear discs
or rebuilding my sure grip

so, theres a reason im willing to screw around with a ford axle for a while.

i also wanna know, since im getting a lot of guys saying that its cheaper to rebuild mine, where are they getting theor parts and labor? or how are they doing the math?
 
These are all good enough reasons to do exactly what it is that you need to do according to your own reasoning and decisions and I wholeheartedly agree with you four. In the past I've used a V8 Monza rear w/ strange axles in my mid 10 second Vega when there were those who said use a 12 bolt or 9" but I knew what it needed as a street car.

I agree with those who take the bull by the horns approach rather then play games with originality after all this is our vehicles and not some purist whose never taken a chance other then buying a lotto ticket. George Barris once said ' anyone can restore a car but it takes a real man to chop it up ' and that is something I agree with in a way where if the vehicle didn't come with the equipment you need why can't we just change it. Reminds me of those who don't not want to cut their doors for speakers, yet will add a stereo when the only radios in the 60's were mono as radio channels hadn't broadcast in stereo as of yet so some installed reverberators on their radios.

Oh well enough education for today as I am going back too far in time for some of you :)
 
the exploder diff is pretty strong , mine went 450,000 km and was still going stong when i sold the 1998 exploder . Posi in it never gave me trouble and I really abused that truck , now the trans and transfer case was replaced 3 times , that diff was STRONG . Just blew my 8 3/4 , so not impressed with it .
 
dusterbd13 said:
i am not equipped to rebuild my hogshead myself. the good shop a few town over qupted me 900.

this is my 4th bad hogshead in a row. this one lasted longer than the rest, though. well, except for the 3.23 sure grip. that was a good one....

to be honest, im getting sick of the 8.75 goving me crap every time i turn around.
shopping for the parts myself
overhaul kit for bearings and other parts: 221
gears: 359
axle bearings 60

total 640
not including install
or rear discs
or rebuilding my sure grip

so, theres a reason im willing to screw around with a ford axle for a while.

i also wanna know, since im getting a lot of guys saying that its cheaper to rebuild mine, where are they getting theor parts and labor? or how are they doing the math?
Click to expand...

All depends what you want I have probably $1500 into my 8.8
Differentials can be expensive.
Do it right the first time you should be alright.
You can put that kind of money into your 8 3/4 and have a good strong rear end.
Then not have to screw around with fabricating it it in.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MOPA...4783571?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories


Check out the above link.
have it checked out and with new bearings seals and whatever gearing you want you would be all set.
 
What center section does your 8-3/4 have in it? You know there are 3 different cases and if your running a 741 (weakest case) behind something with a lot of power and good traction it might not hold up good. But neither would a Ford 8.8"....

I know someone with a 741 case with 4.88 gears and a 4 spd. behind a healthy 340 that has lasted for yrs. so apparently Mopar 8-3/4's aren't junk.
 
My opinion is 8 3/4 is a great axle,I have ran them behind smallblocks and bigblocks.Nothing is bullitproof.8.8 is a good axle9" is a lot better.We sell a lot of 8.8s to go behind 6 and 8 cyl.If they were bullitproof we couldnt sell any.You can upgrade any of these axles to killer proportions-with killer dollars.just depends on what you want.Just cant tell you that if you put a 8.8 in you will have no problems.
 
8 3/4 vs. anything else yet again.

8 3/4 is the best diff available from Mopar for your car. Taking it out may seem to be a downgrade and possibly a loss of value for your car. If you do trade it out, keep the 8 3/4 for the next owner.

However......

The 8.8 Ford is plenty strong. The Explorer diff has disc brakes. It is also cheaper to work with as it is still current production.

The 8 3/4 has been out of production for over 30 years, (as has the 9" Ford). Parts are getting pricey.

That $200 junkyard diff will cost more cash to install. It looks like you already know what you will need. You will have to change spring mounts,figure out your emergency brake cables, modify the driveshaft and add the Ford style flange. Do you have to renew the brake pads and rotors? You will need to change the master cylinder. Possibly that $900 rebuild does not look so bad when you factor in all the costs?

On the other hand, once you have it in place, repairs will be cheaper and easier.

It's your car and if you want a different differential, that should be your choice. The 8 3/4 is not the best differential of all time, (despite the tunnel vision some folks experience.)

I don't know how much strength you need, but I would consider the 8 1/4. FMJ body diffs are about 3" wider than an A body, just stay away from the 2:45 ratio case. Impossible to change to a better ratio. Cherokee/Wagoneer disc brakes are a bolt on.
 
140,000 miles, 36x13.5" tires... Still the same 8.8" the truck came with....

71back1.jpg
 
Not to Pirate the thread,But I would be interested in hearing who else is using these axles.
 
I have one in the process of being put in, one side needs to be narrowed and new spring perches welded on. After being narrowed it will be a little narrower than a 8.25. I dont know how much power they can stand up to but I figure if all of the kids with mustangs in this area can abuse the crap out of them they should be tough enough for me
 
Bit of advice... If you're going to run slicks box the spring perches so they don't collapse under acceleration. I found out the hard way ;) Welding the axle tubes to the Pumpkin makes it stronger too. Otherwise the pumpkin can spin out the rosette welds in the axle tubes. Both things only happen under extreme load.
 
So you want to put a Ford rear into a Mopar because it is cheaper, they are more plentiful, because they will make your life easier?

Pick one :)
 
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