Factory disc question for those with stock disc brakes. NOT aftermarkets

[Swinger 340]

Tonight I’ll recheck the rear brake adjustment, re-bench bleed the master, and see where I’m at.
At that pedal ratio, with all stock ‘76 equipment, it should be applying hard.

Just an unsure thought. Not so sure on the 76' brake set-up. but is it possible that you have the calipers upside down, with the bleeder on the downside instead of at the top of the caliper?

 

[63Tigerlily]

Just an unsure thought. Not so sure on the 76' brake set-up. but is it possible that you have the calipers upside down, with the bleeder on the downside instead of at the top of the caliper?

Common mistake, but I didn’t make it

 

[Inertia]

There is a Toyota Master with very similar mounting, comes with misc smaller bores I have used on custom race builds, that lock up sticky slicks, but you have everything to give you an immediate hard, high pedal.
Line pressure seems low .

Perhaps different pad compounds .

Pads broken in per manufacturers spec, glazed ?

Good luck

 

[63Tigerlily]

There is a Toyota Master with very similar mounting, comes with misc smaller bores I have used on custom race builds, that lock up sticky slicks, but you have everything to give you an immediate hard, high pedal.
Line pressure seems low .

Perhaps different pad compounds .

Pads broken in per manufacturers spec, glazed ?

Good luck

Probably not broken in yet.
It’s all new stuff for a 76 scamp. Pads, master, calipers. (The old calipers were fine except one of the bleeders was seized, so for 30 bucks a caliper I just swapped em in).

 

[junkyardhero]

i'm gonna guess bad master, a deviation from the norm on plumbing and/or the pads aren't bedded

did your pushrod hook up to the stock location or did you have to drill for a new mounting location?

 

[LO23M8B]

Tonight I’ll recheck the rear brake adjustment, re-bench bleed the master, and see where I’m at.
At that pedal ratio, with all stock ‘76 equipment, it should be applying hard.

Re-bleed the entire system and adj. the rears and see what you get. Every car that I ever had with the factory disc systems stopped on a dime and gave me 9 cents change. They didn't lock up. The manual set ups required a little more push as expected. Also with these aftermarket parts you never know what you get.

 

[63Tigerlily]

i'm gonna guess bad master, a deviation from the norm on plumbing and/or the pads aren't bedded

did your pushrod hook up to the stock location or did you have to drill for a new mounting location?

Stock location. Non bedded pads could feel soft while driving, but the pedal feels softs while sitting in the driveway

 

[63Tigerlily]

Re-bleed the entire system and adj. the rears and see what you get. Every car that I ever had with the factory disc systems stopped on a dime and gave me 9 cents change. They didn't lock up. The manual set ups required a little more push as expected. Also with these aftermarket parts you never know what you get.

I finally got around to getting under there to redo the rear adjustment, and the stupid lowering blocks have the shock plate right in the way‍ so today I’ll pull the wheels and get really into it.

If the rears are too far in, then it wouldn’t allow the metering valve to engage soon enough. This is what I’m learning towards because I can’t remember adjusting them specifically when I put it together (I THINK I did, but I had it together and apart a million times to convert the e brake to fit the 63 cables)

 

[Ant]

Brake shoes not adjusted out enough can give a low pedal feel. Adjust the shoes until you get some resistance, then pump the pedal and adjust them again.

 

[340]

I have a 1970 340 Swinger with factory disc brakes. Pedal is good and hard when I step on it, not spongy at all. Mine are manual brakes too, not power. Car stops good with not a lot of pedal effort.

 

[63Tigerlily]

Sucked up about 1/2” of freeplay with the new adjustable pushrod and readjusted the rears.
Feels pretty good. This is my first manual disc car. Feels much different from drums or power discs. Seems to stop well.

 

[63Tigerlily]

Pads are bedded and it goes for some fine alignment tuning in a couple days. My daughter just turned 15 and she wanted a chevy or a VW. She was so wrong ‍but got the best of both worlds

 

[AbodyBB]

So here you can see the valve from doctor dif. The only difference from his diagram is that I use one front circuit to feed the original block that splits into two front circuits.
This was only to get it going temporarily. One of the original nuts of the front circuit rounded off.
I still don’t see, once bled, why this would cause a soft pedal.View attachment 1716428016

The newer block is a distribution block ONLY. Proportioning is done by the master cylinder. There is a balance check valve in the fronts to equalize pressure right to left. By routing from one side only the check valve is shutting off the side where all of the flow is going. (Your front brakes)
Route the brake lines to use distribution in the new block.