Factory disc brake rotor question

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Hey Steve, I believe that I sent this picture to you before but maybe it will help you again. Those do look like the KH hubs that were on my 68 with factory disc brakes and I did get my replacement rotors from Rock Auto. The picture you have there is the back side of the hubs, the rotors sit on the backs and then you press the wheel studs in through the new rotor and into the hub that is what holds the rotor firm and in place, look at the marks on top of my old rotors they rest on those humps on the back side of the hubs. You can see from my picture that I replaced all 10 of my wheel studs, and I installed all right hand thread. I have a for sale add on here for an assortment of wheel studs and lug nuts with both left hand disc brake wheel studs and right hand disc brake wheel studs if you are still looking. Take one of your rotors and lay it on the back side of the hub and you will see that you need to press the wheel stud in place and no the disc brake wheel studs are not swedged. there is also a picture of the wheel studs and lug nuts.
Bob

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4spdragtop said:
Not sure on the size and not ready to sell just yet. They may be drum brake, I dont know.
I'll measure tomorrow
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If you decide you want to part with them, please let me know?
 
Thanks Bob, that pic helps! I'll piece the rotor and hub together tomorrow and check. I gotta check the shape of the splines in hub also. Have you got a part # for new studs?
Thanks
66 CUDA said:
Hey Steve, I believe that I sent this picture to you before but maybe it will help you again. Those do look like the KH hubs that were on my 68 with factory disc brakes and I did get my replacement rotors from Rock Auto. The picture you have there is the back side of the hubs, the rotors sit on the backs and then you press the wheel studs in through the new rotor and into the hub that is what holds the rotor firm and in place, look at the marks on top of my old rotors they rest on those humps on the back side of the hubs. You can see from my picture that I replaced all 10 of my wheel studs, and I installed all right hand thread. I have a for sale add on here for an assortment of wheel studs and lug nuts with both left hand disc brake wheel studs and right hand disc brake wheel studs if you are still looking. Take one of your rotors and lay it on the back side of the hub and you will see that you need to press the wheel stud in place and no the disc brake wheel studs are not swedged. there is also a picture of the wheel studs and lug nuts.
Bob

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Steve the wheel studs are supposed to fall right through the rotor holes then press firmly into the hub. And as stated before disc hubs and drum hubs are different, I don't think you will see those humps on the back side of drum hubs.
Bob
 
I do not have the part numbers off hand, and left hand studs are getting almost impossible to find any more. There was an auto parts store here in Michigan that I deal with and they said that they had some left hand ones, I will give them a call tomorrow and see if they still have them.
Bob
 
Your "hubs" appear to be Kelsey Hayes, and if you compare to this picture(s) it will confirm.

Kelsey Hayes Hubs Shields Rotors 007 (Copy).JPG


Kelsey Hayes Hubs Shields Rotors 009 (Copy).JPG
 
4spdragtop said:
Thanks Bob, that pic helps! I'll piece the rotor and hub together tomorrow and check. I gotta check the shape of the splines in hub also. Have you got a part # for new studs?
Thanks
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Dorman 610-130
 
4spdragtop said:
Everything I got is used Rob, no new stuff. I see now the splines run into the hub, stick out of the rotor a tad. I've read several threads about swedging.
Studs slip right into rotor that I sandblasted some. Shoulder I'm pointing at is a nice fit, but no press needed. Now to go into the hubs, I would say I will need a press.


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There was a reason for that step down in diameter also. If a spline in hub failed, a stud with oversized spline was available. Hole in rotor did not need to be enlarged to install.
New rotors may be coated which puts an end to the rust. You might have the hubs blasted and coated too.
 
4spdragtop said:
Gonna leave the pair with hubs together and get them turned for sure, hopefully they are good. A pair of rotors bought and shipped is $130- 140 Cdn. Thats buying from Rock Auto or Summit. If I were to buy local it would be more than that. Ones with hubs gotta be worth a $60 gamble. Does anyone recognize what these extra hubs are from? You can see KH on the left one in pic.
Thanks
Steve




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Wish you were closer Steve. I've got an Aamco you could use to clean them up.
 
Thanks guys, yes the spare hubs turned out to be for disc so that's good for a spare set. Used studs would need to be pressed into spare hubs. Not sure of the quality of splines left in the hub. I'll blast them and inspect. I'll look for the Dorman #, next size up.
Thanks for the offer Troy, that would be a help. If the damned rotors weren't so expensive to ship, I probably wouldnt mess with these old ones. $65 in shipping alone, for 2 rotors. Either from Summit or Rock auto.
The min thickness appears to be .790 like hemi71x said.
Went and picked up bearing sets Timken SET2, Timken SET6(in stock) and Timken seals 6840S. Not too bad, $80.
Thanks again all!
RedFish said:
There was a reason for that step down in diameter also. If a spline in hub failed, a stud with oversized spline was available. Hole in rotor did not need to be enlarged to install.
New rotors may be coated which puts an end to the rust. You might have the hubs blasted and coated too.
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CFD244 said:
Wish you were closer Steve. I've got an Aamco you could use to clean them up.
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Kendog 170 said:
That's right. I forgot you are in Canada.
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20210203_094552.jpg
 
Hey Steve, I called my auto shop and they no longer have the wheel studs. I am sure if you need new ones you should be able to find right hand thread.
Good luck
Bob
 
Swedged studs look like this. You can see the difference on this one rotor. If you can't see the hole or countersink, then the rolled swedge on the stud is covering the countersink or holes in the hub. See the left stud has an incomplete swedge. Compare it to the stud on the right with a complete swedge.

Inertia's KH disc.jpg


K-H A Discs 1.JPG


Here you can see a new installation with new studs. You can see the hole and countersink in the hub.

K-H A Discs 2.JPG


K-H A Discs 4.JPG
 
Thanks for posting, I'll get some pics later of assembled and disassembled sets. I thought the "swedge" was on the inside, not the outside. Looks like machine/drill marks on inside of stud holes. I'll get better pics.
66fs said:
Swedged studs look like this. You can see the difference on this one rotor. If you can't see the hole or countersink, then the rolled swedge on the stud is covering the countersink or holes in the hub. See the left stud has an incomplete swedge. Compare it to the stud on the right with a complete swedge.

View attachment 1715684605

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Here you can see a new installation with new studs. You can see the hole and countersink in the hub.

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View attachment 1715684608
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20210203_095357.jpg
 
4spdragtop said:
Thanks for posting, I'll get some pics later of assembled and disassembled sets. I thought the "swedge" was on the inside, not the outside. Looks like machine/drill marks on inside of stud holes. I'll get better pics.
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No way to swedge beneath the head of the stud. Looks like they machined a smooth flat for the head of the stud to sit against.
 
The stud hole openings were machined to give a perfectly flat area for the stud to seat against. Any variation could contribute to braking vibration. The rotors were never intended to be mounted loosely to the hub as some have suggested.
Always follow the Factory recommendations .
 
Inside the rotor is for the stud head which, when the stud is pressed into the hub, holds the rotor to the hub. The swedge was a one time only, on the hub side to lock the rotor and hub together from Kelsey Hays. Not many can be found in this condition since the last OEMs were 1972. The studs are pressed out from the hub side. The marks on the inside are from the face of the stud head.
 
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