Shmaako
Well-Known Member
What is the '
recommended' minimum clearance needed between fan and radiator?
Fan clearance
- Thread starter Shmaako
- Start date
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searcher1990
Well-Known Member
That's close to what I'm running.
mopowers
Well-Known Member
I only have 1/4" on my 68 Dart. There are plenty of ways to keep the drivetrain from moving forward.
j par
Well-hung Member
I always say ditch that whirling blade of death and get a electric fan with a heat sensor...
HemiSSDart
Dartus Interuptus
I know that the factory specs 3/4" with a shroud, not entirely sure without a shroud but 1/4" is WAY too close...
Inertia
Well-Known Member
The blades of the fan will move forward as rpm increases.
If it were the clutch that close, - maybe.
The blades usually suck forward, - one of them may hit the top or bottom tank, - bend, - then wipe out the rad.
My son's is about 1/4 clearance to the clutch hub, and the rear mount is captured, so forward movement is limited . He's a spirited driver , no drama .
Fan clearance
If it were the clutch that close, - maybe.
The blades usually suck forward, - one of them may hit the top or bottom tank, - bend, - then wipe out the rad.
My son's is about 1/4 clearance to the clutch hub, and the rear mount is captured, so forward movement is limited . He's a spirited driver , no drama .
Fan clearance
Last edited:
Unshrouded about an inch is good. Allows for fan flex at rpm and some driveline movement.
Shrouded fan doesn't matter how far from the radiator, just blades half in/half out of opening for efficiency.
Shrouded fan doesn't matter how far from the radiator, just blades half in/half out of opening for efficiency.
Shmaako
Well-Known Member
I think I will cut the large spacer behind my fan a 1/2" to gain that room.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
If you don't have a milling machine or lathe to cut it perfectly square, you can buy fan spacers of various thicknesses on ebay. I had to try several to get my fan perfect on my slant six (very tight). Looks like you have plenty of room to move your fan back on your big-block. I also used that aluminum water pump housing on my 383. It must vary slightly from the factory cast-iron housing since I had to fuss with pulley alignments a bit. If you use an aftermarket damper, that can trigger such changes too.
The radiator support on mine was pushed back (or assembled that way) almost 1". Curtis (@waggin) noticed it one day while he was up for a visit. I did some measuring a few days later and he was right. Measure from a smooth spot on the firewall to where the inner fender meets the support on each side and then from a spot in the middle. You need to make sure you measure from spots on the same PLANE on the firewall, as there are some indented areas. I jacked mine out almost a full inch with a porta power and now I have a lot more room. The hood even closes better. It's funny though, because the hood nor the grill has any damage at all.
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