Fenderwell headers too Close to Master Cylinder Line

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hello everyone, updating on the progress today. I am starting to get some of the parts together. I bought the Mopar Performance valve covers and went with the "1970 dodge charger master cylinder" route. I encounter my first problem. The master cylinder lines look a little tight exiting on the engines side. what is the adapter plate Part # ? maybe i can move it to the two top screws. it looks like there is a little more space on the top. I will add the pictures mounted on the tops screws on my next message. here is the first pictures.





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:coffee2: burning the midnight Oil :coffee2:



here are the pictures of the M/C on the top two screws. they have a little space which is must better then what i had from the old first pictures from the start but still playing with space issues. I already ordered the headers and they should be here within the week or so. can't wait for those to come in :D.


any input is very appreciated on this subject once again :prayer:



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Neat, keep the pics comin'. I'm still addressing that issue on mine too. I have most/all of the parts that I need. I just havent had the time.....been blastin' out the hours at work instead of taking time off to work on the Scamp. Another month or two and I should have some pics showing something complete and issue fully addressed.

I'm thinkin' i'm gonna raise up the MC about 1" and sandwitch 2 heat shields underneath it.
 
Dang...This is turning into quite the process. lol

Look into the Mopar Performance "offset master cylinder adapter". #P5249717

This moves the M/C away from the engine, for added clearance. Originally it was designed for the 1968 Hemi A-Body cars.

After looking at the first couple pics, that sure is a tight fit. Might have to go back to the other M/C.
 
Johnny Dart said:
Look into the Mopar Performance "offset master cylinder adapter".

#P5249717

This moves the M/C away from the engine, for added clearance.
Originally it was designed for the 1968 Hemi A-Body cars.
Click to expand...

Good idea. Available just about anywhere for $105.00. Jegs, Summit,
Mancini etc...etc...and the list goes on.


dcc-5249717_w.jpg
 
Might want to look here http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=129440 at post #13. This coupled with the right exit m/c might be a big help. My car had something similar to this done. Instead of grinding on the back of the adapter the lump on my firewall was removed. Took some trickery to get the pedal back in the car, and I do not remember waht it was. Will have the car in a few weeks can let you know then....
 
Mopar King,

I noticed my r/b engine is not centered among the engine compartment. Which gives me another inch or 2 between the valve cover and M/C. Also seems like my block sits lower than yours. Took me a bit to see the differences there.
 
I run the schumacher block hugger headers no problems at all other than a little restrictive as they are tri y headers. The best thing is i can run my exhaust under the vehicle and not worry to much about speed bump pulling the exhaust off at the header flange lol.
 
Been surfin' net on and off today......ran accross this and I may have come up with somethin' else. Power brakes.............7" booster mounted to bracket that raises everything........

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1965-1970-Mopar-Brake-Booster-Bracket,8901.html

they say this:

This 1965-70 Mopar booster bracket does NOT change the angle of the booster mount. It moves the booster up 3 ½” center to center with the firewall bracket slotted for an additional ¼” up or down adjustment. It moves the booster ahead 4” on same plane and accepts the standard 3 3/8” mount boosters. The pedal mechanism changes the pedal ratio to compensate for the power brakes. You will need a minimum of 18-20 inches of vacuum to obtain the full power assist from the booster.
 
After looking at the set up in my 68 and the 1/2 inch between the header and the brake lines and my plans to drive he car on the street no more strip use. I think that this will cause all sorts of issues going forward as well as the headers rubbing the tires so I think its time ti ditch these things and look at either shorty headers of something better
Any ideas
 
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