Finetuning questions - do I need a high-stall torque converter ?

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^^^ Good statements and not arguing. There are multiple things to consider, like torque converter spin at lower RPM's, which effects fuel economy and transmission fluid heating. And not just any unit will work this way; your statement about 'a custom quality unit' has to be true. Only certain brands fit that description; not all torque converters are equal. And even the good company's information needs to be taken with a grain of salt; they are advertising. (Basically, I don't necessarily believe every little thing that even the best TC companies say....)

IMO, the OP needs to balance best ET versus the time he spends doing other things with the car. He is in an urban area in Germany, and unless you are on the autobahn, average driving speeds tend to be slower than in the USA, even in US cities. Then call a company that makes 'a custom quality unit' and describe his use and speeds and let them make a recommendation. Some recommendations to him on the best companies for torque converters seems to be useful.
 
Remember a torque convertor functions based on the power put to it. In other words, put my 3500 convertor behind a stock slant 6 and it no longer stalls at 3500.

So mash it to the floor and it flashes high. Drive normal, it acts normal.

My car cruises at 2500@60mph. Yet it has a 3500 stall. GVOD does a great job explain why cruise RPM under the stall speed is ok. Reason being, your engine doesn't make as much power at those lower RPMs making the convertor think it has a smaller engine in front of it.

In regards to gas mileage. YOu need a lockup convertor or one that stalls below your cruise RPM. Even with a 2200 convertor, if you plan to cruise 2500+RPM you aren't looking for optimal gas MPG.
 
Mine 72 Duster has wery similar combo and it did go 14.7 in 1/4 mile.
mine burns tires about 5 meters no brakes.

318 about 9.5:1 comp
lunati voodoo Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .454/.475
LSA/ICL: 112/108
Summit 600cfm carb
16 initial timing 36 all in at 3500 about.
a/f ratio says about 12.5 at wot

Really badly dented hooker headders, they brobably flow much worse than manifolds

904 trans about 2000 stall tf2 shift kit, 3,23 rear 205/65 r15 tires

60f 2.290 sec
330f 6,436 sec
1/8mi 9.941 sec
1/4mi 14.732 sec

you should burn tires easy. check timing, mayde bigger carb.
 
More initial will help your low end issues. Get the most out of what you have before throwing parts at it. I've seen a lot of $$ spent on a converter that ended up eating more power than it gave.
 
BINGO!

The Ignition Timing Curve was the issue.
I have a MSD 8388 Distributor - which I bolted on originally with initial settings.
I did not have a clue that the curve would make that much difference.
Initial timing is now around 10 degrees - max 34 degrees.
Have first tried one light blue and one silver light spring - with the blue stop bushing.
This was already a big improvement.
Then I went to the 2 silver light springs - which gave the most improvement - still with the blue stop bushing (21 degree total advance range)
See curves sheet in attachment.

I checked carefully for pinging - and had to turn from 36 to 34 degrees max as it tended slightly to ping in transition from cruise to WOT.

Now it spins the wheels at free will :iconbigg:

As next step I was able to borrow a Holley 4160 600cfm vacuum secondary for testing.
I will recondition it first and then tune it to my engine.

I was able to buy a Holley 4667-2 600cfm double pumper for around 120 USD which I will recondition as well - then I can compare which carb suits me best.

Thanks again to all for you great help! Will let you know the outcome from the next quarter mile passes next year....
 

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Simple test, start car, get it warmed up. Twist distributor at idle a little CCW, if it picks up RPM it wants the timing.

I think you are still short on initial timing. 10* is stock 318 territory from the factory. You have a larger camshaft. Should be in the high teens low 20's. Use the black bushing. Give the car 16 initial with the black bushing and see if it starts OK when warmed up. It should run even better down low.

I still have some 14* bushings as well. MSD missed the mark on not making bushing to reduce mechanical timing.
 
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