Firewall/Engine Bay Smoothing

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Garethw

Mopar. Because rocket science is too easy.
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My goal is to see as few wires and holes as necessary on this 65 Valiant. As such, I'm going to fill in several small holes on the firewall and inside the engine bay. I'm also replacing my rusted out upper and lower cowl. While it's out, I'm thinking of filling those two oval shaped holes, where body plugs normally go. I would then put about a 2" hole on each side for clean out and access instead. Any reason I shouldn't do this?

Also, this car had the front end partially disassembled when I got it. What mounts to the two small holes on either side of where the headlight wiring goes through the inner fenders? See third pic below.

Thanks!!

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Interesting ideas about patching up holes in the firewall. Although it does not appear that you have more than you should, or that someone went crazy adding holes for random accessories. I dont think that there are any that need filled...
I personally like the idea of the clean out plugs added to the sides of the cowel, but they will be very difficult to access once your fenders are back in place. You will have a fender and a hood hinge with a spring to compete with for the opening... I would personally leave the larger plugs in the front of the cowel. I clean that area out with a piece of heater hose attached to the end of my shop vac. It acts as a smaller hose and allows me to vacuum up the leaves and debris that accumulate along the sides of the under dash vent openings.
Lastly, the bolt holes in the top of inner fenders are for the front splash shields that bolt in from underneath and protect the headlight bucket and parking lights.
 
inner fender splash shield bolts to those clips. I welded those holes up on my car, also removed the pinch weld. pinch weld was a PITA
 
Thanks guys! Most of the holes on the firewall I'm filling are where the push plugs go on the inside to hold the original firewall insulation. I'm going to use Dynamat or the like so I don't need those. I'm also getting rid of the big factory bulkhead connector. I'll use an aircraft style bulkhead connector instead, relocated.

I'm also wanting to run all the headlight wires inside the fender so I can eliminate the holes for the wire bundle clips on the inner fender. This should let me fill the ~1.5" hole (where the circular body plug is) that the headlight wiring enters through.
 
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Interesting ideas about patching up holes in the firewall. Although it does not appear that you have more than you should, or that someone went crazy adding holes for random accessories. I dont think that there are any that need filled...
I personally like the idea of the clean out plugs added to the sides of the cowel, but they will be very difficult to access once your fenders are back in place. You will have a fender and a hood hinge with a spring to compete with for the opening... I would personally leave the larger plugs in the front of the cowel. I clean that area out with a piece of heater hose attached to the end of my shop vac. It acts as a smaller hose and allows me to vacuum up the leaves and debris that accumulate along the sides of the under dash vent openings.
Lastly, the bolt holes in the top of inner fenders are for the front splash shields that bolt in from underneath and protect the headlight bucket and parking lights.

Good point on the hood hinge. I may need to rethink that some more. I'm going to use a gas strut attached to the side and connected to the bottom of the factory hood hinge. I saw someone on this forum do that, love this idea to eliminate the torsion bar setup.
 
inner fender splash shield bolts to those clips. I welded those holes up on my car, also removed the pinch weld. pinch weld was a PITA
Do you have a pic with your pinch weld smoothed? I had considered this too, but it sounded like more trouble that it may be worth.
 
My goal is to see as few wires and holes as necessary on this 65 Valiant. As such, I'm going to fill in several small holes on the firewall and inside the engine bay. I'm also replacing my rusted out upper and lower cowl. While it's out, I'm thinking of filling those two oval shaped holes, where body plugs normally go. I would then put about a 2" hole on each side for clean out and access instead. Any reason I shouldn't do this?

Also, this car had the front end partially disassembled when I got it. What mounts to the two small holes on either side of where the headlight wiring goes through the inner fenders? See third pic below.

Thanks!!

View attachment 1715179689

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You can weld up the hole above the U shaped bracket that has two bolts attached from the inside. I have no idea why that hole is there.
 
You can weld up the hole above the U shaped bracket that has two bolts attached from the inside. I have no idea why that hole is there.
I thought that was for the carburetor linkage? The engine was already out when I got it so I’m not positive.

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That is strictly for the slant six mechanical accelerator linkage. You can clean it off if you plan to use a different style such as a cable.
 
In my early A's, I installed a relay/fuse box from a later vehicle (95 Jeep). That lets me eliminate the relays on the firewall (starter, horn). Also no ballast resistor since modern ignition. I have thin ribbon-cable in smooth sheath from bulkhead to relay box, so the firewall looks very clean. It is a shame that Mopar used a welded-in cowl. Most cars have a removable cowl cover so you can clean out leaves and treat rust. I cleaned and painted the inside of my cowls, working thru the inner duct holes and the small oval drains.
 
That is strictly for the slant six mechanical accelerator linkage. You can clean it off if you plan to use a different style such as a cable.
I had thought this was originally a V8 car when I looked up the numbers, I must have been wrong. Regardless, I'm putting a 273 back in so this one will get filled too now.
 
I’m pretty sure the V8 cable/pedal uses those same holes.
You might want to leave that alone
 
I figured I’d have to drill a hole for the throttle cable. Seems ironic I guess to fill so many holes and then drill another :)
 
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BTW, love the white engine bay with red motor. That’s the combo I’m going to do to.

Thanks, it’s actually an off white, looks yellow in certain light, I believe it’s SS1 - French ivory. This is the car
 
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Thanks, it’s actually an off white, looks yellow in certain light, I believe it’s SS1 - French ivory. This is the car
Thanks for sharing! I'm going for an off white also. With a tan interior. What color is your interior? I'm keeping the factory steel wheels which I plan to paint red (like the motor) and add the dog dish caps.
 
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