First time cam install questions

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MprDoc

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OK, so I'm finally upgrading my cam in my 30 over 360 and Im putting a decent size Lunati Voodoo unit it BUT I have never done this before and as I'm getting into it I'm realizing its tad more difficult than magazine articles would have you believe so I have some questions.

1- I am switching to Magnum heads simultaneously and know that I need hydraulic (hollow) pushrods to make them function correctly, how do I determine how long they need to be? Do I just order stock length 360 Magnum rods?

2- When installing the cam gear, how much clearance should be between the engine side of the gear and the cam retention plate if any? Right now mine is bumped up against it and I noticed that if its not like that it seems as though the cam will move back and fourth.

3- Once I get push rods, what is the procedure for adjusting the rocker arms. My heads came with a nice set of billet aluminum roller rockers that are adjustable.

4- Does anyone have a part number for Mopar Performance or ARP Magnum head bolts, Mancini Racing sent me the wrong ones.

Any other info you all could give me would be outstanding, thanks for the help!

- Kyle
 
Hey Kyle. I'll answer these questions inbetween them in the quote.

MprDoc said:
OK, so I'm finally upgrading my cam in my 30 over 360 and Im putting a decent size Lunati Voodoo unit it BUT I have never done this before and as I'm getting into it I'm realizing its tad more difficult than magazine articles would have you believe so I have some questions.

1- I am switching to Magnum heads simultaneously and know that I need hydraulic (hollow) pushrods to make them function correctly, how do I determine how long they need to be? Do I just order stock length 360 Magnum rods?

You should be able to order MoPars conversion pushrods (Not OE Magnum pushrods) for a Magnum engine without issue IF the heads were not milled, the engine blocks deck wasn't milled and the head gasket isn't overly thick by compare to a stock head gasket. Comp Cams , huges engines, etc... sell pushrod checkers. There adjustable pushrods that have markings on them for exact length needed or wanted.

2- When installing the cam gear, how much clearance should be between the engine side of the gear and the cam retention plate if any? Right now mine is bumped up against it and I noticed that if its not like that it seems as though the cam will move back and fourth.

There is no clearance spec for this. Just push the gear on and install the retaining bolt. Even if you push it flat onto the cam, the cam will walk fore and aft ever so slightly. A minor gap is fine. I can not give a measurement, but, if you push it of and then pull it off the engine while the retaining bolt is on, you'll see a minor gap. This is fine.

3- Once I get push rods, what is the procedure for adjusting the rocker arms. My heads came with a nice set of billet aluminum roller rockers that are adjustable.

The adjustment for a Hyd. cam is to have the pushrods depress the lifters approx. .050 downwards, the roller tip should be in a certain area on the valve tip. I do not have any pictures of this.

IF SOMEONE WOULD STEP UP AND SHOW PICTURES OF ROLLER TIP TO VALVE CONTACT FROM DEAD ZERO LIFT TO MAX LIFT AND INBETWEEN, IT WOULD BE VERY VERY HELPFUL TO THIS POST

4- Does anyone have a part number for Mopar Performance or ARP Magnum head bolts, Mancini Racing sent me the wrong ones.

Call mancini back, they'll make the adjustments with ethier the right part or a money refund. There good about this.

Any other info you all could give me would be outstanding, thanks for the help!

- Kyle
Click to expand...

MoPar has a book, "Engines" for your small block to show you the way to do this. Also, Comp Cams has a instruction sheet for there "How to" as well as other company's. Often, a degree wheel will also have instructions on it on how to degree a cam.

If you have read the mag's , your in good shape for the most part. Go for it.

Come on back if you still need help.
 
#1. Stock length Magnum pushrods won't work. The Magnum lifter is a roller style & is much taller than a lifter for a flat tappet cam. You will also need AMC style lifters to oil through the pushrods.
 
Get a pushrod length check thingie; sorry can't remember the real name. On mine, I have to go .060 longer than the Mopar Performance conversion pushrods to get the proper preload.
 
Oh dang! I hate it when I screw that one up.

Thanks 64cuda, dead right on that one. I was thinking of the conversion pushrods that Mopar sells. I also heard that some guys complained they were short.

I edited my post. Good looking out!

Edbux, that's what I think they call them, except for the thingy part, LOL!

huges engines has them and can be seen on line.
 
"Im putting a decent size Lunati Voodoo unit it BUT I have never done this before and as I'm getting into it I'm realizing its tad more difficult than magazine articles would have you believe so I have some questions.

1- I am switching to Magnum heads simultaneously and know that I need hydraulic (hollow) pushrods to make them function correctly, how do I determine how long they need to be? Do I just order stock length 360 Magnum rods?
On pushrods:
As was said... You will need special length pushrods and you should buy a checking pushrod to measure this andget the correct ones.
On the cam choice - MAKE SURE YOU HAVE VALVE SPRINGS THAT WILL WORK WITH THAT CAM. Magnums use beehive springs and the Lunatis want a lot of pressure. So you will definately have to make sure the springs have the pressures you need and fit the Magnum heads.

2- When installing the cam gear, how much clearance should be between the engine side of the gear and the cam retention plate if any? Right now mine is bumped up against it and I noticed that if its not like that it seems as though the cam will move back and fourth.
The cam is pushed forward in the block by the interaction between the oil pump drive shaft and the cam gear. There is no real spec for that until you go roller cam, just replace the cam retainer if it shows wear (or upgrade to a tensioner).

3- Once I get push rods, what is the procedure for adjusting the rocker arms. My heads came with a nice set of billet aluminum roller rockers that are adjustable."
Make sure you get hollow pushrods with the right ends for your rockers. As far as ajustments.. You can to set them up so the pushrod compresses the plunger in the lifter about .030". You should be using the length checker set up with the adjuster screw of the rocker backed out so only 1 thread is showing below the rocker body, and that .030 lifter preload.
 
MprDoc said:
3- Once I get push rods, what is the procedure for adjusting the rocker arms. My heads came with a nice set of billet aluminum roller rockers that are adjustable.
Click to expand...

I haven't seen the "proper" advice for adjustable rocker/lash settings come up here so I will throw in being a chevy guy coming form the land of adjustable valvetrains

Spin the pushrod between two fingers with one hand and tighten the adjuster nut until you feel the pushrod start to bind a bit - it will never bind completely unless the lifter bottoms out.

Once you notice some bind or resistance on the pushrod, tighten the adjuster nut about 3/4 of a turn more - some guys only go 1/4 turn, some go a full turn, 1/2-3/4 turn always seemed more reasonable to me - the more you turn, the more preload on the lifter and the less oil the plunger will load and deliver.

Obviously make sure to do this when the lifter is on the BASE circle of the cam lobe, no lift should be present

Here is an article on valve adjustment you might find handy
 
HEY! Thanks a lot for all your help!! I really appreciate it, I think ill be able to figure this out once I get some pushrods AND the right cylinder head bolts.

One more question, Comp cams cam instruction video says to use a solid lifter to do the adjustments BUT it seems to me that if I have to compensate for the plunger compressing than wouldnt I want to use the hydraulic ones anyway? I have an extra set so theirs no worries about jacking up a hydraulic spring during the initial.
 
You usually use a solid lifter to check for piston to valve clearance.

For determining push rod length you want to use the hydraulic lifter because you want a push rod length that puts the right preload on your lifter while keeping the rocker adjustment correct. Make sure your head gasket is in place when you measure.

Summit sells a lot of different pushrod length checker tools like this one:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-9001/

And run your oil pump with a drill with the valve covers off to make sure the top end is getting oil before you start it up.
 
voodoo lifters with cam packages have provisions in the lifters for pushrod oiling. Just an fyi. Comp recommends the solid because it can be hard to tell when the plunger is starting to depress on the lifter. They recommend checking with the solid and adding the preset to your number.
 
Not to dig up an old thread... but if you use a solid lifter, aren't you then suppose to add another .025 to the length of the pushrod for pre-load?

say if you found 0 lash at 7.50 ultimately for preload reasons you'd want a pushrod that was 7.525?

Or am I way off here?
 
myasylum said:
Not to dig up an old thread... but if you use a solid lifter, aren't you then suppose to add another .025 to the length of the pushrod for pre-load?

say if you found 0 lash at 7.50 ultimately for preload reasons you'd want a pushrod that was 7.525?

Or am I way off here?
Click to expand...

hydraulic and solid lifter plungers are located at different heights in the lifters...the solids are always lower and therefore take a longer pushrod...
 
Oh, o.k. that makes sense. BUT... Say you were to take a hydraulic lifter and glue it shut! :)

THEN... You could find 0 lash and then add .025 to the length of the pushrod?!?!

lifter_exp.gif
 
Not all solids are deeper and the design varies between the few manufacturers. You're better off removing the clip and disassembling a lifter, then putting something in there to make the hydraulic solid and then reinstalling the clip. I dont use the "twist in fingers" method because frankly I can't really tell and I can see it regardless of the lifter type. So I do it with the intake off.
 
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