first time down the track advise?

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Seriously though, dont even worry about what ET you run, it wont be up to its full potential the first time out. Just make as many passes as you can and get used to the enviroment of it all, its a blast and you will LOVE it!
 
Try not to do what I did...

Not having any idea where the tree staging lights began and pulling WAAAAYYY to far up.

But honestly everyone was VERY cool. Any questions plenty were happy to help.
All the advice given already is spot on.
Have fun, ask questions and don't worry about your 1st real time slips.
I quickly found my car's weak area in fuel supply after the 1st pass.
The 1/4 mile was surprising "long" compared to any "blast" on the freeway or street.
 
I'm sure glad i'm not the only one that likes to stage my back tire, the first time out. A tip........the staging lights/beams are WAY before the tree!!!!
Just have fun and don't take you ET to seriously and you will have a great time!!!
I would suggest leaving the line at idle. if it hooks, stall it up a little next time.
 
Make sure the car will pass tech. Seat belts, valid helmet, throttle return springs, battery hold downs, too much rubber fuel line, liquid fuel pressure lines running inside the car to gages, and overflow bottles are the most failures I've seen. Once you've passed tech and get the stamp, go watch a few cars before you get into the lanes. Watch what they do, and who in terms of track people are directing them. pay attention to things like where the beams are, and which beams are prestage vs stage. Roll slowly into the prestage and focus on the staging. I'm like RRR. My first run at a new track or in a new car is always a moderate launch, WOT for the first two gears, then a light throttle high gear to see where the bumps and turn offs are.
Pay attention, focus on technique and process. NOT ET.
 
Well, this went mostly well
I had a fuel issue which I am not sure I managed to solve, but I had fun and a learned a lot (I can guarantee you it will never close a float adjuster by turning it the wrong way again)

The duster made it there on her own power and made it back home on her own power so I'm happy

The issue I was having was that towards the end of second gear I would run out of fuel, stutter and stumble before the carb would regain so I didn't get any good time

My best slip looked like this
Reaction -.0365
60 ft. 1.9853
330 f . 5.5913
1/8 et 8.7194
1/8 MPH 74.78
1000 et 11.8284
1000 MPH 72.96
1/4 et 14.9149
1/4 MPH 71.88


Now I just need to figure out why I was starving (fuel filter maybe?) Fix it and get back out there

(Oh, and the cars raceweigto is about 3500 lbs)
 
Seems like you had fun at least!

Don't worry about the ET too much. My first time at the track I had dreams of a 12 second run with a worn out 360 and ended up running a 14.6. I got that down to a 13.2 with some gears slicks and a few other parts.

With that power and a set of 4:10s and some sticky tired you should be in the 12s. Figure out what the fuel issue is then start worrying about the rest though!

Glad you were able to drive it home also. I drive my mustang up to the track and run it then drive home and there is something about that feeling you don't get when your loading your car into a trailer.
 
That's a great first time out!
 
Glad you had fun. You have a lot left in that combo once you get it straightened out.
 
thanks for the replies guys

I'm hoping to get the sure grip installed over the winter, that should help some
I'm make a new thread on what the fuel issue might be

this car is my daily driver during the decent months of the year, so I'm not sure if I want to go with 4.10s, maybe 3.73s?

all in all, I'm happy
when I got there (its about an hours drive from my house) I pulled in next to a guy why was just rolling his 68 hemi charger off the trailer and the first thing he said to me was "did you drive that thing up here from Holland?"

that sure made me feel good :)
 
I'm running 3:55 with slicks and running 13.2 with much less power. You could get into the twelves with the same gear and the fuel issue figured out.
 
Congrats! Nothing broke. You kept your head and were able to do a successful test & tune - or at least the test part of it anyway. And as stated before, it sounds like you had fun. Working the kinks out of the system will get you into the lower e.t.s.

How did it hook? - And did it seem to pull pretty good off the line (before the fuel issues)? You may want to reconsider swapping to a deeper set of gears. The 3.23s are a pretty good all round ratio and the steeper the ratio you run will definitely impact fuel economy on the street.
 
Honestly, I'm not sure how it hooked...not sure what to look for yet, I don't think it spun much though

I'll adress the fuel issues and get back out there
 
Figure out your fuel issues. Then do another run. Also do you have the dyno sheets? Ideally for a track oriented car. You want to trip the beams right before max HP. If you're not concerned with max track power. Go with what you want for the street. Calculate your RPM from your MPH and tire size. Then drive around at that RPM and see if you can handle it. If you spend a lot of time at 35 MPH. Try different rear gear ratios and see why RPM it will do. Then drive at that RPM. If you do highway driving. Figure out what RPM different gears will do at 65 MPH and drive at those RPMs. If you can handle the noise and revs. Get that gear. If you can't. Go lower.

It all depends on your personal preference.
 
I broke my 5.14's a couple of years ago and stuck some 3.50 gears in so I could go race and it still ran a 6.39 @ 109 in the 1/8 crossing the finish line in 2nd gear. I am faster now and was thinking about putting them back in and see what it will run now. I am running 4.56 gears now.
 
I am far from a expert but it sure sounds like you are running out of fuel. A 1/4" line is pretty tiny to feed that MRL animal under the hood. I put a 3/8" sender and line in my 66 when I re did it just in case I decide to go big someday.
 
so the consensus is the mechanical pump is up to the job, IF I replace the line leading into it with a 3/8th line?

I am far from a expert but it sure sounds like you are running out of fuel. A 1/4" line is pretty tiny to feed that MRL animal under the hood. I put a 3/8" sender and line in my 66 when I re did it just in case I decide to go big someday.
what was all involved with replacing that?
do I need special tools for that job?
 
so the consensus is the mechanical pump is up to the job, IF I replace the line leading into it with a 3/8th line?


what was all involved with replacing that?
do I need special tools for that job?
I would. The sender comes off by tapping the ring off with a screwdriver and the hoses are just clamped. You should be able to replace the sender without removing the tank if it is close to empty. Jack up the front higher than the back on the stands. A word of caution, The replacement senders aren't accurate as far as the gas gauge goes and tru to re use the rubber o ring and retainer ring. Those aftermarket pieces can cause you some leaks. They just don't remake things like the originals.
 
No special tools, care must be used when removing and replacing the sender ring, as you know, sparks and gas fumes aren't a good mix in certain circumstances.

When you do replace it, KEEP the old lock ring and use it, the new ones are pure crap. Not sure about the 3/8 line fitting, as the factory stuff was 5/16 line.

IMO, if your gonna go to the trouble, upgrade the pump as well with a Carter unit. 120 gallon per hour

Carter M6270, Carter Strip Super Fuel Pump | Carter

Probably want a regulator as well, these pumps can push 8 PSI.

That ^^ is what is going on my build.
 
so this might sound dumb, but how would I hook up the return line?
 
I run a 5/16" pickup with open tube (no strainer) tube is bent so it is 1/4" of the tank bottom.
3/8" line forward to pump, 3/8" from pump to 1 qt spin on fuel filter. Output of filter to fuel pressure regulator and 3/8" to carb. Run a cheap $20 airtex mech pump. 360 Magnum high 11.86 approx 390hp. I have to have at least 6 gallons in the OEM tank at the track to maintain fuel delivery.
Fix your fuel delivery and then tune it for 1/4 mile before spending $$$ on other stuff.
The motor did not produce the same hp in the car as the dyno and fuel delivery would be #1 likely issue. Set floats to Manufacturer spec.
IMO an MRL 408/3.23/26" sticky tire A body would pull all the way to the stripe and then drop the nose as you lift.
 
Well when is the next t&t, when are we going to see pictures and time slips ? ?
 
Why do something that MIGHT work when a good electric pump WILL work?

I don't understand.
 
Why do something that MIGHT work when a good electric pump WILL work?

I don't understand.

It may not be the mechanical pump that is killing the power. It could be the line size and it's much easier to replace the line than it is to plumb a new pump filter and regulator. I do agree though, if this was my build I would have an electric pump but that's just preference.
 
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