FiTech Fuel Injection User

-
M

Money Pit

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 13, 2017
Messages
153
Reaction score
8
Location
Pasadena CA
I would like to put fuel Injection on my 70 slant. I would like to hear from those of you that have actually install the 2 barrel FiTech system. I would like to know, what is actually needed to make the installation successful. I followed a lot of the threads about the system, but not a lot of actual users have chimed in, except to comment about the technical support. Thanks
 
I have FiTech on my 65 valiant slant6. It's the 4-barrel, the 2-barrel didn't exist yet. I got the 600 power-adder so I could get full access to the data logging and such. That was not an option with the 400. (Though Haven't really played with it yet.).

Their tech support was great. No joke. People told me it sucked. They seemed to have fixed that problem because I called them many times and they gave good advice.

Fuel Pump: the in-line pumps need to be installed lower than the lowest part of the tank, so I went with the in-tank pump option. That was much more work because that tank is not designed for it. After I was done I saw that tanks.com(?) has tanks for my '65 valiant made for the smaller Holley (?) in-tank pump. That might be a better option, but you'd need to mix and match brands. Also, I ran with the regulator on the throttle body and used -6 hose to feed the carb. I used the 5/16 (original fuel line) for the return. It's totally overkill but that's what FiTech recommended. Oh, and the in-tank pump came with a regulator that can be swapped out for a plug (because some of use use the throttle-body regulator instead). But the plug had the wrong size o-rings. It was weird because there are two o-rings and they were both wrong. Easy fix: just had to seal the correct orings from the unused regulator. Not sure why they bother giving you orings for the plug... only to get it wrong.

O2 sensor. The hose clamps they give you are a joke. Weld the bung on and you'll be happier.

Water Temp sensor: You need to drill/tap the existing sensor port on the head. That's a bit tricky. (Or some people have put the sensor elsewhere.)

Linkage: can't say much here because my slant was running a Motorcraft carb before the EFI.

Battery: I had a negative maternal cut-off for my battery. But now, if i use it, I have to let the EFI re-learn. Not a big deal, but worth mentioning. The key info is stored in non-volatile memory. It's only the 'fine-tuning' that gets lost.

I've put <100 miles on it, but it runs and idles like a dream. The only thing I need to figure out (hopefully) is when I'm WOT and the tranny shifts, it momentarily looses some power. It didn't do that with a carb. It used to shift hard and squeek the tires. I want the squeek back.
 
J Glenn said:
I have FiTech on my 65 valiant slant6. It's the 4-barrel, the 2-barrel didn't exist yet. I got the 600 power-adder so I could get full access to the data logging and such. That was not an option with the 400. (Though Haven't really played with it yet.).

Their tech support was great. No joke. People told me it sucked. They seemed to have fixed that problem because I called them many times and they gave good advice.

Fuel Pump: the in-line pumps need to be installed lower than the lowest part of the tank, so I went with the in-tank pump option. That was much more work because that tank is not designed for it. After I was done I saw that tanks.com(?) has tanks for my '65 valiant made for the smaller Holley (?) in-tank pump. That might be a better option, but you'd need to mix and match brands. Also, I ran with the regulator on the throttle body and used -6 hose to feed the carb. I used the 5/16 (original fuel line) for the return. It's totally overkill but that's what FiTech recommended. Oh, and the in-tank pump came with a regulator that can be swapped out for a plug (because some of use use the throttle-body regulator instead). But the plug had the wrong size o-rings. It was weird because there are two o-rings and they were both wrong. Easy fix: just had to seal the correct orings from the unused regulator. Not sure why they bother giving you orings for the plug... only to get it wrong.

O2 sensor. The hose clamps they give you are a joke. Weld the bung on and you'll be happier.

Water Temp sensor: You need to drill/tap the existing sensor port on the head. That's a bit tricky. (Or some people have put the sensor elsewhere.)

Linkage: can't say much here because my slant was running a Motorcraft carb before the EFI.

Battery: I had a negative maternal cut-off for my battery. But now, if i use it, I have to let the EFI re-learn. Not a big deal, but worth mentioning. The key info is stored in non-volatile memory. It's only the 'fine-tuning' that gets lost.

I've put <100 miles on it, but it runs and idles like a dream. The only thing I need to figure out (hopefully) is when I'm WOT and the tranny shifts, it momentarily looses some power. It didn't do that with a carb. It used to shift hard and squeek the tires. I want the squeek back.
Click to expand...
Great info. One thread I read and said there is now a 2 barrel version. I also saw an advertisement for the 2 barrel. Thanks
 
WOT should be closed loop, ie no 02 input. Is there a WOT micro switch on the TB? Well, I guess it would be built into the TPS....it that adjusted correctly?
 
Money Pit said:
Great info. One thread I read and said there is now a 2 barrel version. I also saw an advertisement for the 2 barrel. Thanks
Click to expand...

No 2 barrel on their site. That was a rumor a while ago.

Smallest kit is the 4 barrel. Alot of inline 6 guys are running it.
 
cdnEHbody said:
No 2 barrel on their site. That was a rumor a while ago.

Smallest kit is the 4 barrel. Alot of inline 6 guys are running it.
Click to expand...
I just looked yesterday. They have a 2 barrel for up to 400 hp and they have the triple duce set up. I'll see if I send it to you. Thanks
 
If you go to the FiTech website, and scroll down, there is a "New Products for 2018" It has the 2 barrel and the triple duce set up.
 
J Glenn said:
Fuel Pump: the in-line pumps need to be installed lower than the lowest part of the tank, so I went with the in-tank pump option.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure this is one "story" the internet has correct. When I had my girl going, I had Holley TBI was first the old pro-jection, then Commander 950, and then I upgraded the ECU in that to a Holley HP

I was using a generic Walbro pump mounted on the frame near the rear axle. While it is CLOSE to the bottom of the tank it certainly is not "at or below". I had NO trouble with that at all, and don't plan to change it.
 
I also think it is a myth that an EFI pump must be "lower than the tank and very close to it". People say a Walbro pump can suck fuel up to 5 ft high. For years I have run Holley Pro-jection TBI on my 1965 Newport. I had many problems trying to follow Holley's advice w/ pump at rear. I finally installed it in the engine bay on the lower frame rail. In a test, the fuel just poured out of the 5/16" tube into a bucket under gravity, maybe 0.5 gpm, so I couldn't imagine that would starve the pump and it was never a problem. I just switched the fuel tank in that car and went to a 3/8" supply, so even less concern.

BTW, the Pro-jection system has always been finicky. It was a poor design, by not having a MAP sensor, just throttle position. They finally fixed that in the final-gasp version (4Di), which became the Commander 950. It was originally designed for Holley by the engineer who runs Big Stuff (professional racer EFI) and the early "by MSD" sytems appear the most reliable (rugged connectors, ...). Holley seems weak in engineering, especially electronics, at least at that time.
 
BillGrissom said:
I also think it is a myth that an EFI pump must be "lower than the tank and very close to it". People say a Walbro pump can suck fuel up to 5 ft high. For years I have run Holley Pro-jection TBI on my 1965 Newport. I had many problems trying to follow Holley's advice w/ pump at rear. I finally installed it in the engine bay on the lower frame rail. In a test, the fuel just poured out of the 5/16" tube into a bucket under gravity, maybe 0.5 gpm, so I couldn't imagine that would starve the pump and it was never a problem. I just switched the fuel tank in that car and went to a 3/8" supply, so even less concern.

BTW, the Pro-jection system has always been finicky. It was a poor design, by not having a MAP sensor, just throttle position. They finally fixed that in the final-gasp version (4Di), which became the Commander 950. It was originally designed for Holley by the engineer who runs Big Stuff (professional racer EFI) and the early "by MSD" sytems appear the most reliable (rugged connectors, ...). Holley seems weak in engineering, especially electronics, at least at that time.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top