Flooding?

[CheeseWheel]

My 74 duster (225 ~ 390cfm Holley) seems to be possibly flooding or that is at least what I get out of it. I'm not really fully sure. The car cranks and idles fine as long as you let it sit there and idle there are no issues. If you go to put it in drive right at first it tends to stall out but I figure that's normal due to it perhaps needed to idle a moment before being ready to go. After idling a moment and what not it has no problems there.

The problem lies in once I take it out to drive. If you really try to get down on it, it tends to stall. It doesn't die but it stalls. Over time, not long, it dies as if it is getting to much gas and flooding out.

At that point it doesn't really like to crank back and spits and sputters with a little backfire. To me it seems it is flooding out not that it isn't getting enough fuel.

I see no reason why it wouldn't be getting the fuel needed. The fuel pump seems to pump a decent amount and the accelerater pump seems to be squirting a heavy blast to the primaries with no hesitation. And I just placed a new in-line filter as I thought the old one was clogged and the issue (it was one of the old metal type). The one there now is the clear type which happens to be much smaller. However it only fills about the quarter of the way with fuel, is that normal?

I was just wondering is it possible the carb could be feeding to much gas? Or could the secondaries be kicking in to soon with me having tried to stomp it a bit? If they do will it flood it? (Vaccum type carb) I have not ran the paper clip test as of yet to see if that may be the problem. If they are kicking in to soon it can cause a stall or hesitation in pickup I believe.

I believe there may also be a vacuum leak somewhere. I plan to replace all hoses and check more into that. Could that also be the issue?

I'm just wondering if I'm on the right track here with what I'm thinking may be some issues. I have not the slightest idea how to even begin to tone this carb if that's what I have to do.

The car does crank, it does run, it idols great, and runs good until the whole to much or not enough fuel issue.

I'm think it is strictly a fuel issue but just incase someone may think it is a ignition prob it doesn't have points. The car has an electric ignition system. I have read the symptoms going hand in hand with failing ballast resistors but I don't think its the issue here. And the coil isn't over heating. However I'm open to any ideas as to what it might be.

 

[CheeseWheel]

So I feel like a complete idiot. The problem was a bad fuel pump and clogged line. The pump was pumping fuel when the ignition was turning the motor over but not as it was running. Meaning the fuel was running out after the carb was sucked dry and inline filter it seemed. Replaced those issues and is doing better in the department.


The problem now lies with these vacuum lines.

The car had no line running to a breather element from carb secondary vacuum valve. It was instead half *** plugged at the carb side of things (leaking lightly) with no breather element at all both PVC valve garments were simply just open freely.

I placed a breather element in the tail side PVC valve garment. And ran a line to the vacuum on the carbs secondarys'.

There are also two lines running from the break booster to the intake manifold. Which were there already and I replaced.

It seems to now be running more roughly then before in idle and ribbed up.

Is the way I ran them incorrect? Or is there suppose to be some other PVC valve type deal that regulates the vacuum pressure or something?

 

[RedFish]

That filter that you can see into is now showing you a fuel percolation issue. This is typical of todays fuels. So after new fuel pump install, the filter fills at least half way and all seems fine while engine is cold. Don't pat yourself on the back right away. Once the engine gets hot, You will see filter fill, empty, fill, empty, cycling again. What folks don't realize is empty isn't empty at all. It's actually fuel vapor under the same or slightly higher pressure as liquid fuel. That vapor/pressure has to be bled off before the fuel pump pushes liquid fuel up there again. There is only one place that vapor can come from and only one place it can go. Good news is a fix for this. Thicker base gasket under carb and rerouting the fuel line along with relocating the filter in a vertical position. Do use a metal filter.
As for PCV and related vacuum lines, A PCV valve should have a vacuum supply. A breather cap is only that. A vapor return line on that cap wouldn't have vacuum. The vapor return type breather is only a EPA requirement.

 

[AJ/FormS]

Your oral description of hose routing is not computing for me. It's all too confusing to me.Ima gonna say pics please.

 

[Killer6]

Your oral description of hose routing is not computing for me. It's all too confusing to me.Ima gonna say pics please.

Definitely, we need pics of what you've done,sounds wrong. There'd
be only one 3/8" hose to the brake booster,usually the small fitting
on the check valve there goes inside to vacuum HVAC controls.Like-
wise only one 3/8" hose to a PCV valve in the valve cover,the other
valve cover unit will be a breather that will either take in underhood
air(older design), or has a large tube for a hose to the air filter body
tube to draw filtered air from there. You didn't say how the dizzy is
hooked up,& to which port.