floor pans

[Tadams]

OK, not quite ready, but need advise. I have talked to some guys in my area about replacing the passenger side floor pans front and rear on my 65 Barracuda. I have the pans. What should I look at when they start talking cost and the best way to do this. I may take this car to some local shows when I'm finished , but mainly a fun driver.
One local restorer said he would lap the panels in place while someone else talks about cutting to fit, which I know sounds as if it would be better.
My question, is what should I look at as far as cost, and should they be lapped or cut to fit and welded. I'm looking at having this done in the next 6 weeks.
Thanks as always for your advise.

 

[4spdcuda66]

I don't know what the going rate for body work is these days, but I would imagine most shops are around $90/hr. As far as lap weld vs. butt weld, both are acceptable. The lap weld on a floor replacement may be stronger than a butt weld. Keep in mind, the top side will be covered with carpet, and not too many people at car shows crawl down to look at undercarriages. Some people do, but even at that, if you undercoat, most people will not notice the seams. You could finish the seams so they're not noticeable if that would bother you to have them visible. I made these floor pans and lap welded them.

 

[66 Dartman]

I butt welded mine in. The problem with lap welds is they hold moisture and rott out.

 

[RedFish]

all sheet metal joins on the car are overlapped and spot welded. There's your sign ?
Sure they can get moisture between them. Where this is a concern seam sealer is applied.

 

[chryslerfat]

Faster and easier to lap weld just dont lap much because as stated it will hold moisture in the lap. Probably cheaper that way.

 

[Tadams]

Thanks everyone. I need to make a decision and go ahead and get this done. Wish I could do it myself, But never have welded, so this will go outside and have someone else take care of it.

 

[chryslerfat]

Thanks everyone. I need to make a decision and go ahead and get this done. Wish I could do it myself, But never have welded, so this will go outside and have someone else take care of it.

Wire welding is not hard to learn and used lincolns and the like can be had off Ebay or Craigslist for around 200 or so. You might think of getting one and teach yourself with scrap pieces.

 

[Tadams]

Come on down and give me a hand chryslerfat. Your bout due a road trip aren't you.

 

[chryslerfat]

Come on down and give me a hand chryslerfat. Your bout due a road trip aren't you.

Would love to but 2 jobs and life are keeping me busy for now.

 

[Tadams]

Understood! I'm at work till 8 tonight, but hope to get in the garage tomorrow after church and again Monday. Goldie may not remember me though, it's been a while.

 

[Tadams]

She's like a women, hasn't had enough attention. May not start or something crazy like that.

 

[barbee6043]

really like he said, a used welder is dirt c heap. get a fru=iend that can weld, and in a few minur=tes you will have the hang of it, then just takes some practice.

I agree with the lap weld for the floor pans. butt welds have their place IF you can do it... a correct lap weld will have just a small overlap. if your suffering from " perfect-it is", grind your welds, treat with Ospho or other rust inhibitor, epoxy prime, paint, seam sealer, should last another 40 years?????.

 

[Tadams]

Thanks, I was thinking the other day, the car is 50 years old. With the condition now, another 50 should be no problem. I'll never see it though and none of my kids seem to be interested. I may check into the welder as you guys said. I do remember someone who said they could help me with that. Someone came into my business the other day who has a shop said he would do them for 250 for the front and 250 for the back. That seemed cheap to me, but I've never priced having it done. Is that a fair price for having it done correctly.

 

[chryslerfat]

Well honestly if its 500 to get them done I would go the couple hundred to buy a used welder, learn to weld and save money along with having the welder to use again or resell when done.

 

[Tadams]

Great idea. I'll check on Craigslist tomorrow morning

 

[KosmicKuda]

If you have the replacements on hand. Lay one in place after removing the seats and carpet of course. You will then be able to figure out how the originals fit. They are spot welded along the outside edge by the rockers and meet the firewall in a joint commonly called a pinch weld. They are also spot welded to the tops of the front frame rails. I bought a Blair spot weld cutter and just drilled through all the spot welds and rough cut other areas where it met the metal still in place. I only replaced the front so I used an offset flanger and laid the metal in. From the bottom it was invisible after grinding.

 

[Tadams]

I have the sets and carpet out so it is very clear what needs to be cut out. I also have the new pieces to go into place. Just a matter of time I guess.

 

[BillGrissom]

If I did it again, I would lap weld. It took a lot of fiddling to get the panels perfectly butted up, then was rewarded w/ a lot of burn-thrus. This was my 2nd time using my cheap HF wire-flux welder (no gas), so could be lack of skill/equipment. I would overlap just 1/8". That will make fitting much easier, while not sandwiching much metal. Spray "weld-thru primer" first. I have used hardware store high-zinc spray paint for that since. Then seal the seams. Even w/ a butt-weld you can't get a grinder on many areas underneath so it won't look pretty. I just covered w/ undercoating spray, so nobody can tell.

 

[Tadams]

Thanks Bill. Always good info.