Ford 8.8 swap?

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So no mods needed to use a 90s ranger rear end other than spring perches? Anyone have a part number for the u joint needed?
 
68383, you dont want a Ranger rear end, they are the 28 spline junkers with drums, get a 95+ Exploder which comes with 31 spline axles, a locker and disk brakes.
The 8.8 fords dont have a yoke on them, they have a flat flange. You have two choices, remove the flat flange and install a yoke or simply buy a $35 u joint flange. its a flat flange that has two u joint ears on it, in what ever size you happen to purchase it in, 1310, 1330 or 1350.
 
I did the swap. Got a 3L73 from a 99 explorer, with rear disc brakes of course. Cut down the one side to make both tubes even. Cut off all brackets and welded on 8.75 spring perches at +3 degrees (8.75 perches new from Mancini Racing worked great) and a combo U-joint from Dennys Driveshaft. New brake hoses and calipers from the explorer (Carquest) and it was ready to install. Haven't really put it through its paces, but for the money, i haven't had any reason to b!tch yet. I figure I can beat on that diff and save the original 7.25 if I ever want to restore it properly to put back in.


Here was the link to the combo u-joint. Just be sure you know that your shaft is 7260 vs 7290. http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p1869_7260_series_to_1330_series_combination_u_joint.html
 
This is the spring perch link

http://www.manciniracing.com/mopallchrysv.html

This is the U Bolt kit. There is a little "Stretching" required as the 8.8 tube is a little bigger. But I did it by hand, no problems.

http://www.manciniracing.com/ma7uooe.html

And lastly, the leaf spring shock mount.

http://www.manciniracing.com/marilesishpl.html

Now, you can source the last 3 parts (spring perch, u-bolt kit, and shock plate) elsewhere or used and save a couple bucks. But I figure if I ever decide to go back original, I can sell this diff to another A-Body driver who could use it to enjoy their car sooner and save up to get the 8.75, and not risk ruining a good diff just to beat the hell out of it.

Hope this helps!
 
while you are welding the spring perches on, weld the tubes to the center section. I saw one spin a tube once but that was in a jeep w 5.13 gears and 37" BFG Krawler. Not likely a street tired A body could get enough traction to do that but cheap insurance.
 
Hello,
Wow thanks for all the replies/ imput. I have much to read over here, and research to do now. This is a 72 valiant 4 door. I have not measured the axle width yet. Valiant is next to be rotated into the garage.The car is kind of ugly,but more the reason to hop it up.
Many good points have been raised.i do wish to start with the rear, then move onto the power adder. It is my understanding that turbos do like highway gearing. I will add photos asap. Yes this is a budget build.
 
Ok ,
So i found a suitable 8.8 . It came out of a 89 Lincoln Mark 7., limited slip,3.27 ratio, calipers and rotors included. Width is within 1 inch of the 7 1/4 it will replace.
Best Part , 150 bucks.
 
magnummopar said:
68383, you dont want a Ranger rear end, they are the 28 spline junkers with drums, get a 95+ Exploder which comes with 31 spline axles, a locker and disk brakes.
The 8.8 fords dont have a yoke on them, they have a flat flange. You have two choices, remove the flat flange and install a yoke or simply buy a $35 u joint flange. its a flat flange that has two u joint ears on it, in what ever size you happen to purchase it in, 1310, 1330 or 1350.
Click to expand...

Or you can keep the ford flange and get a conversion universal joint for even cheaper. Thats what I did.
 
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