Hi all. Quick question on making clutch adjustment on my a833. I currently have 2-3 inches of free play at the pedal and would like to tweak that to 1-2. Also would like to verify the correct gap at the clutch fork ( approx 1/8 inch). Should I disconnect the clutch fork return spring before making adjustments ? Seems like it’ll be tough to really know the gap with the spring constantly pulling the fork forward. It seems like a rather heavy spring as well. Thanks
Free play adjustment
- Thread starter Racngrn
- Start date
-
You're thinking too hard on this. Pedal fully up, get underneath, adjust the fork rod nut until until you can pull the end of the fork about 3/16ths off of it's seat and go. If you can't pull the fork back with 2 fingers you have the wrong spring down there!
Do you still have the large over center spring on the pedal assembly under the dash? It is supposed to be removed using a diaphragm style pressure plate.
Right or wrong, I don't care where the pedal free play is. I adjust so the throw out bearing is about 3/16" from the pressure plate fingers. Close but never touching until you push in the pedal.
That fork spring is only there to hold the fork tight on the adjuster and throw out bearing off the pressure plate. Zero cause for a heavy pedal
dano
Evil Handy Man
I have the same clutch and same result. As others stated, get the release set to your liking without riding the pressure plate fingers then add a return spring in the pedal box. I found a heavy spring and some very small turnbuckles allowed for easy installation and adjustability. Now my pedal fully returns. It bugged me to have it swinging there like a set of hangers on a bull mastiff.
Thanks Dano.My pedal returns nicely, so no issues there. I suspect it's simply a more aggressive clutch package to take full advantage of the 3:91 gears ( wink, wink). My suspicion overall is that the PP is the culprit and is not fully releasing even when adjusted per the FSM. I'm going to remove the inspection plate and see what's going on when I can get a helper to depress the clutch for me. Really wish I had a lift! to make this a bit easier on my old body.
With the pedal at rest and the bearing to finger gap at aprox. 3/16", the clutch will start releasing within an inch or so at the top. The bigger the gap, the further from the top or the closer to the floor it will release. If the bearing is riding on the fingers it will ruin the pressure plate when the bearing fails. If the release point is too close to the floor, it might not disengage fully and you will be grinding gears when you shift especially into reverse. Another note, diaphragm clutches can go over center if there is too much pedal travel. The manufacturer will have recommendations for adjustment.
Daves69
Well-Known Member
Does MacLeod offer install and common issue recommendations for their product?
dano
Evil Handy Man
I think this is common with any Diaphragm clutch in these cars. They probably vary from mfg to mfg.
That's how the manual says to do it.
Daves69
Well-Known Member
That is surely evident on the hearsay in the forums. However, there are posts of folks needing to reinstall the OC spring after removed. Are we understanding direction that come with these clutch kits? Or is it we're all working off hearsay?
And that is exactly why the MFGs. should be able to address those issues, IMO.
Might be worth a look at their website or call their tech department for info.
My issue is, people want to use diaphragm clutches where they never came. Mopars of our era used the Borg and Beck style clutch. So when you change that out, you're putting something in that Mopar didn't use, so expect to have some bumps in the road.
FlamesAreWicked
Well-Known Member
When I converted my dart to a 4spd, I used a 400hp rated diaphragm McLeod clutch.. I just made sure the gap for the bearing and fingers was right and sent it.. knock on wood, it’s been just fine.. it’s been a year now.. granted I doubt I have a 1000 miles on it since.
-
Similar threads
