rustycowll69
Well-Known Member
I don't even like to suggest people use a positive piston stop, even though it's a perfectly useful tool to find TDC. The chance it could be misused by some noob is too great, the potential for damage is too risky.
Fresh Startup Procedure.
- Thread starter WSUTARD
- Start date
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Rapid Robert
Well-Known Member
I put a yellow plastic vac cap on the TDC tool to avoid nicking the piston tho I do come up on it real slow. Ace hardware has em as "thread protectors" for pennies each. On the preoiling with OE part time rocker oiling I go to 90 deg BTDC #1 compression (dampener may have a partial slit good for this or cut a strip of paper 5.694" to use as a ruler) & preoil the pass head then go to 20 ATDC #6 compression (use the timing tab as a ruler) & preoil the drivers head. this minimizes wiping off the cam lube (cam failures are epidemic) then back up the damper slightly CCW to 15 (if the chain is loose, shouldn't be on a new build but just sayin) I go to 18 then come back to 15 then turn dist housing till the magnet is dead even with the tooth that places the rotor under the #6 plug wire. Rotor phasing from the can shifts the rotor CCW on a SB so you ideally want the rotor at rest closer to the trailing end of the cap terminal. Having the intergear clocked so the rotor (when on #6 compression) is to the rear & slightly to the drivers side lets the plug wires nestle the neatest with the shortest lengths possible & maintains the factory standardization which helps prevent mistakes (keeps Mr Murphy at bay), but not a dealbreaker tho.
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
Here how i did mine...
mine was a fresh engine swap so the dist,intake and valve covers were off already...
had my son with me so things were a lot easier with two sets of hands...
1) filled with break in oil
2) used a drill and prime tool to start priming engine
3) rotated crank to get oil to both sides.
4) when done priming i put cyl 1 at TDC on compression stroke
5) installed dist,intake and valve covers (made sure that the rotor was as close to #1 plug wire as possible)
6) i must have filled the carb with gas because that ***** fired instantly but don't remember doing so..
7) fired engine. never had one start that fast for me.
8) instantly brought ROM to about 2200 rpm and set total timing. (35* for me)
9) ran at about 2200 RPM and revving it here and there for 20 minutes to break the cam in.
10) while breaking cam in kept an eye on temp, walked around listening for noises and looking for leaks.
11) once 20 minutes passed set idle to where i wanted.
12) checked initial and total timing.
13) called it a night.
mine was a fresh engine swap so the dist,intake and valve covers were off already...
had my son with me so things were a lot easier with two sets of hands...
1) filled with break in oil
2) used a drill and prime tool to start priming engine
3) rotated crank to get oil to both sides.
4) when done priming i put cyl 1 at TDC on compression stroke
5) installed dist,intake and valve covers (made sure that the rotor was as close to #1 plug wire as possible)
6) i must have filled the carb with gas because that ***** fired instantly but don't remember doing so..
7) fired engine. never had one start that fast for me.
8) instantly brought ROM to about 2200 rpm and set total timing. (35* for me)
9) ran at about 2200 RPM and revving it here and there for 20 minutes to break the cam in.
10) while breaking cam in kept an eye on temp, walked around listening for noises and looking for leaks.
11) once 20 minutes passed set idle to where i wanted.
12) checked initial and total timing.
13) called it a night.
WSUTARD
Well-Known Member
Anyone have tips for getting the cam gear out blindly? The engine is in the car and I doubt it will be easy to pull that sucker out now.
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
in the past i never had an issue with that.. just use a screw driver to turn it and it should lift out.. may need long needle nose or two screw drivers to get it all the way out....
my trucks seems to be stuck though.. maybe grime build up from being in there over 50 years..
my trucks seems to be stuck though.. maybe grime build up from being in there over 50 years..
rustycowll69
Well-Known Member
its not that difficult. A bigass flat head screwdriver helps. Just twist it and the gear will climb right out of mesh. You just do it one tooth at a time, until you get it where you want.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
I'll guess varnish layered like crazy below the bushing...
With a new bushing and cam, the gear may be quite tight. Needle nosed pliers or surgical clamps may help pull it up.
1st, tho' I've never used one, a member here sells a cute little handy compression whistle that signals that stroke. But I use the easy & sure eyeball
method, you've got the valve covers off to check for oil at the rockers, simply watch the intake lifter/pushrod for #1...........when it goes down the
piston is now on the squeeze stroke........the moment it(the piston)'s up top You're set.
Rapid Robert
Well-Known Member
as said it might climb up off of the teeth going CW with a big long screwdriver but on a stuck one you might stick something thin & sturdy down there with an L bend on the end & hook under it. with it free, a magnet is the easiest to get it up & past the block hole or loop some dental floss in a hangmans' noose & hook it under it so it nestles in the teeth root (there ain't alot of clearance to the hole diameter.
mario03srt
Well-Known Member
All,
We went through this yesterday with all new components. Turned the shaft CW till it got loose and used a needle nose and a magnet to lift it out. The builder had everything slathered up with grease and the needle nose slipped everytime about 3/4 out of the hole, so used a magnet to gently lift it out. What a pain! Good news that the car fired right away on its maiden launch after reinstall after priming.
Thanks,
Marion
We went through this yesterday with all new components. Turned the shaft CW till it got loose and used a needle nose and a magnet to lift it out. The builder had everything slathered up with grease and the needle nose slipped everytime about 3/4 out of the hole, so used a magnet to gently lift it out. What a pain! Good news that the car fired right away on its maiden launch after reinstall after priming.
Thanks,
Marion
mario03srt
Well-Known Member
I am so happy and relieved after 19 months. Sounds bad ***! FiTech AND For A Bodies Only!!! FTW!
Marion
Marion
WSUTARD
Well-Known Member
Well started the priming. Big puddle for beer the car. The oil filter right angle adapter bolt is leaking. Ordered a new gasket via next day shipping from Amazon. Will try again tomorrow. Also, I wasn't getting any oil up to the rockers. I didn't get a chance to move the crank yet. I hope it's just the crank isn't aligned.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
"Big puddle for beer the car." Can you explain that statement? LOL
Yep, and you have to move it 10-15 degrees at a time and let it set at each position for 5 or more seconds while priming; it takes some time to get the oil to fill up the rocker shafts and start visibly coming out. That part can be very tedious.
Do you have any sort of oil pressure gauge on the engine?
Yep, and you have to move it 10-15 degrees at a time and let it set at each position for 5 or more seconds while priming; it takes some time to get the oil to fill up the rocker shafts and start visibly coming out. That part can be very tedious.
Do you have any sort of oil pressure gauge on the engine?
WSUTARD
Well-Known Member
HAHA, tired and pissed when I wrote that. "Big puddle of oil beneath the car". Although a big puddle of beer would also make me pissed!
Once I get the leak addressed I will make sure I rotate the crank then prime. Yes, there is an oil gauge in the car.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Or did you piss a big puddle of beer under the car? LOL
The pressure ought to come up pretty quickly to the pressure relief spring setting in the oil pump, even priming at 500-600 RPM on the drill. It should be either mid 50's or low 70's psi, depending on which relief spring you have. (I can't recall if you did new bearings....) And gauges can vary in their accuracy...
The pressure ought to come up pretty quickly to the pressure relief spring setting in the oil pump, even priming at 500-600 RPM on the drill. It should be either mid 50's or low 70's psi, depending on which relief spring you have. (I can't recall if you did new bearings....) And gauges can vary in their accuracy...
WSUTARD
Well-Known Member
So should I keep the RPMs down on the drill?
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Low speed range should be quite adequate to pump things up. Remember, the oil pump gear on the cam turns at half the speed of the crank, so 600 RPM is like 1200 RPM engine speed, which is near to a fast idle. And when the oil pressure builds up, it is gonna be putting some significant load on any drill so a lower drill speed will help the drill keep going longer. Heck it'll even slow my big 1/2" chuck electricians drill a bit!
Yup...I just about smoked my drill priming my 318.....
It smelled funny but it still works!
Jeff
It smelled funny but it still works!
Jeff
stixx
Well-Known Member
Hit "Bookmark" in the lower right corner.
WSUTARD
Well-Known Member
Update: Finally got it to oil up. I was initially moving the crank just a little bit thinking I was turning it 15 degrees. I eventually just started slowly cranking while my father in law was controlling the drill at a low speed. Once we heard some spurts I stopped the crank and let the oil come out. So, all primed up and ready to fire sometime this morning.
rustycowll69
Well-Known Member
see, I told you you'd hear the oil spurting, and the air being forced out of the oil passages.
good job! One step close to lighting it off!
WSUTARD
Well-Known Member
Yep, it spurted all over the headers! I had the front end jacked up to make sure the oil filter adapter wasnt leaking. Made the angles weird and it flowed from the rear rocker to the edge of the block and down. Ohh well.
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