Front end wonders newbie needs help

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willyraz

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Hi. Hope you all can give me some help. I have rebuilt my sons 72 Duster frontend complete. New radials on the front and has been aligned. This car just feels sloppy going down the road always feeling like you have to correct the steering.
1.was manual steering now has P.S (have not made any box adustments yet)

2. Feels like it has way to much P.S. (had a friend tell me he thought he saw something on this sight about putting a washer in the line some where to restrict presure?) didn't seem to come across it. any help?

3.I would like to add a front stabilizer. Can this be done/added to a k frame that does not have the mounting for one. what do you all recommend.

Thanks in advance. Bill

My sons Duster.

P2220119.jpg
 
what alignment specs did they use? if its the stock ones then there is a bunch of your problem.. those specs are for bias ply tires. you need to find a guy that does more then just make the green lights light on the machine to do your alignment.
 
If everything is new and tight on the front end, you probably could use a little more positive caster. The will keep the "wander" down. Make sure the toe-in is no more than 1/16".....0 is even better.
The factory power steering has very little road feel. You can improve it with getting a firm feel box that came in police cars. To get one that will work with your pitman arm, you may have to have one built. Otherwise you'll have to use the later 73-6 pitman arm. Maybe even the drag link....I can't remember.
A sway bar is highly recommended. The factory one will need lower control arms with the attachment tabs. Either change them with the say bar type or make some. Aftermarket ones usually come as a bolt-on kit.
 
"This car just feels sloppy going down the road always feeling like you have to correct the steering."

So what you're saying is it's a 40 year old Dodge???
 
I had the same problem with my car wandering and as was suggested above I had the alignment done with more caster, and it did wonders. Try this first.

I disagree with the comment that a 40 year old Dodge will have sloppy steering. Also, the road feel of the Mopar power steering is something you get used to. My trick is keeping a light grip on the wheel at 8 o'clock with my arm resting on the armrest and it goes down the road just fine.
 
I have to tell you I spent a lot of money on everything from both upper and lower control arm sway bar torsion bars strut bars even a new fast ratio box. In otherwords EVERYTHING. but what made the most difference was adding as much caster as could be added. Do it you will feel the difference.
 
To me the biggest difference was felt after adding a Sway Bar!

Also, if you switch back and forth from a modern car it makes ya crazy.....
Once I have a week or so straight of driving my Darts it is normal again!

Later,
Bruce B.
 
Thanks guys. I have the offset bushings and I have max +caster. That is not the solution. Anyone have any info on that washer install in the p.s. line? How about a recommendation on a aftermarket swaybar kit?
 
Just noticed.....
You only said you have new radials on the front?
Whats on the rear?

I have never heard of any tip about a washer in the PS line in my 35 years working on mopars?

Since you probably will not find a used Sway Bar these days aftermarkets are usually available on ebay for a pretty good price.

Later,
Bruce B.
 
willyraz said:
Thanks guys. I have the offset bushings and I have max +caster. That is not the solution. Anyone have any info on that washer install in the p.s. line? How about a recommendation on a aftermarket swaybar kit?
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sure the offset bushings are in correct? whats are you alignment specs? wandering down a straight road is either worn parts, bad steering box or poor alignment.
 
Maybe wondering is a a poor chose of words? It's not a problem of going straight. It's just so very free. Guess I will start with a sway bar and see what happens.
 
The older Mopars were over powered in their steering. It does feel very loose. There is almost no resistance when turning. They aren't like the newer cars that have a more firm feel when turning the wheel. Do you have play in your steering? What I mean is that you can turn your steering wheel and the wheels don't turn right away. If so, you can adjust the worm gear in the steering box. It is an allen screw with a lock nut on top of the box. The way I always adjusted it was to hold the allen screw andback off the lock nut at least a full turn. Then turn the allen screw until it lightly seats. Make sure it is seated and that the lock nut hasn't seated. If the lock nut is not seated and the allen screw is, then back off the allen screw a quarter turn. Hold it in place and tighten the lock nut. Take the car for a ride to test it. Make sure there is no binding in the steering and the wheel returns by itself in a turn. If it binds or doesn't return by itself then loosen the allen screw a little at a time until it doesn't bind and does return by itself in a turn. Let us know how it feels after that.
 
You can try installing a washer in the return line or put a larger diameter pulley on your pump. Both will help lessen the assist of the power steering. Make certain that your tie rod ends, ball joints, LCA bushings, and your idler/pitman arms are all in good shape. Have someone rock the steering wheel slightly while observing the coupler that joins the column to the gear box. Kits are available to rebuild the joint there. The steering gears will show wear after 40 years and rebuilt units can be acquired through your local parts store. It`s also important to make sure the leaf spring/shackle bushings are in good condition. It`s amazing how play in the rear can transfer to the steering.
 
willyraz said:
2. Feels like it has way to much P.S. (had a friend tell me he thought he saw something on this sight about putting a washer in the line some where to restrict presure?) didn't seem to come across it. any help?
Click to expand...

Where did you get the P/S pump from? A-body pump pressures are typically set below 1000 psi via a pressure relief valve in the pump. If you got a B or C-Body pump the pressure could be 1300 psi or higher causing an over-assisted feeling. Taking shims out of the pressure relief valve spring will reduce the max pressure and possibly improve your road feel. Also, an aftermarket smaller diameter steering wheel will improve road feel as well. A larger diameter pump pulley as Longgone said wouldn't hurt either.
 
Go back to #1. and never heard of a washer. Search in here; just last week, A guy had the fix, on the box.
 
Thanks for all the replys. Haven't been able to get the car away from my son lately to try anything new. He doesn't feel it's much of a issue but I am not in agreement. FYI. I rebuilt the complete front end orther then new torsion bars. The offset bushings are in correctly and there is no play in the tie rods ect. being everthing is new. I will upate the thread when I get a new swaybar. Thanks again for all the replys.
 
2. Feels like it has way to much P.S. (had a friend tell me he thought he saw something on this sight about putting a washer in the line some where to restrict presure?) didn't seem to come across it. any help?
Click to expand...

green1 said:
Go back to #1. and never heard of a washer. Search in here; just last week, A guy had the fix, on the box.
Click to expand...



theres a shim kit out to adjust the pump pressure on a saginaw p/s pump. have one around here somewhere i'll get a pic of if i can find it..
 
How can you expect help when you refuse to post your alingment specs? No reason to reinvent the wheel with out checking the basics.
 
replicaracer43 said:
How can you expect help when you refuse to post your alingment specs? No reason to reinvent the wheel with out checking the basics.
Click to expand...

Yup. We have had a bunch of these threads where a claim was made that the alignment was spot on or profesionaly done……

Then…. Finely after a bunch of tail chasing we get alignment numbers or the guy with the problem takes his car back with (our) new numbers to shoot for and the problem gets solved.
 
I just did a complete front end rebuild - torsion bars, offset bushings, Lower C.A. bushings, Upper/Lower Ball joints, brake hoses, tie-rod ends. Had an aftermarket sway bar already. I had it professionally aligned and have the same problem; it just feels like I'm correcting the steering a lot to keep it between the lines and turns with no effort whatsoever. Interesting about the steering box adjustment - I'll have to try that. I plan to take it back to get my steering wheel on straight (they didn't) and see if they can get more positive caster. I requested the following, which I found online:
Typ. Performance/Street: Camber=-.5, Caster=+2.5, Toe-in=1/16" to 1/8"
He said he achieved everything but the Camber which is near zero.

Regarding the offset bushings, there seems to be a consensus online that they are not to be installed per the included instructions if you're trying to achieve pos caster. This is what was recommended: (see pic)

Ill try to reply back with anything I find.

Moog Offset Bushings install from forum.jpg
 
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