Front Shock Recommendation

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So I just looked and it looks like the previous owner removed the LCA bumpers completely. Never crossed my mind to check before posting this thread.
 
Do you know what bars you have and rear leafs ? Reason I ask is how is the ride that low. I’d like to get mine an inch lower, but if I lower the ft the rear will come up.

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Do you know what bars you have and rear leafs ? Reason I ask is how is the ride that low. I’d like to get mine an inch lower, but if I lower the ft the rear will come up.

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Rear leafs are from Hotchkis, which lower 1" from factory (part 24385). Torsion bars, not too sure but they looks to be 1" or slightly smaller.
 
Working on installing interior, when I get that done and get the car running I’ll see how it rides and start making changes.
 
I put some KYBs on my Duster and it raised the front end about 1/2 inch. I had to turn the adjusters back on the torsion bars to get back to initial ride height before installation.
 
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Looking for some front shock recommendations for my 68 Barracuda. Currently, the shocks installed seem to be bottoming out when hitting bumps. Front is sitting lower than stock (about 23 1/2" from floor to bottom of fender) Tires - P205/60R15. Not too sure what other details I can provide here to make a solid recommendation. Looking for something a bit more stiff I'd imagine so I don't bottom out.
First we all need to know what engine your car was built with and what engine it has in it now. Chrysler used THREE different torision bars depending on whether or not the car had a/c and the engine installed. Plain /6 cars got the smallest bar. /6 cars with a/c and 318 non a/c cars got a bigger bar. 318 cars with a/c and 340 cars got a bigger bar yet. These bars are .892". They should likely be your minimum bar. For shocks, I've always relied on and loved KYBs. I've had Gabriels and hated them. Does your car have front and rear sway bars? If not it should. If they're mounted in rubber, they should be mounted in polyurethane. AND most important, the front sway bar HAS to be bigger than the rear bar. Unless you're anxious to kill yourself. Chrysler designed their cars to understeer straight out of the factory. Adding a front bar reduces that. Adding a rear bar puts it back in. Having a rear bar bigger than the front bar is a recipe for monstrous snap oversteer that you'll never catch.
 
We have some pretty rough roads in Australia, all Valiants here were fitted with .880 bars (v8s and sixes) and weren't a problem.

You have the ability to adjust your ride height, just screw it up a bit if it's needed.

The bump rubbers have a job to do, they protect the car, don't fiddle with them too much. We always found the Koni dampers did the best job of controlling the suspension, but I'm sure other brands have caught up a bit since the seventies.

One thing to watch, don't go for dampers which have too much rebound resistance, they might tend to hold the suspension down over a series of bumps.
 
First we all need to know what engine your car was built with and what engine it has in it now. Chrysler used THREE different torision bars depending on whether or not the car had a/c and the engine installed. Plain /6 cars got the smallest bar. /6 cars with a/c and 318 non a/c cars got a bigger bar. 318 cars with a/c and 340 cars got a bigger bar yet. These bars are .892". They should likely be your minimum bar. For shocks, I've always relied on and loved KYBs. I've had Gabriels and hated them. Does your car have front and rear sway bars? If not it should. If they're mounted in rubber, they should be mounted in polyurethane. AND most important, the front sway bar HAS to be bigger than the rear bar. Unless you're anxious to kill yourself. Chrysler designed their cars to understeer straight out of the factory. Adding a front bar reduces that. Adding a rear bar puts it back in. Having a rear bar bigger than the front bar is a recipe for monstrous snap oversteer that you'll never catch.
Car was originally a slant 6 without AC. It now has an LA360. No sway bars at this time.
 
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