Frozen lower left alternator bolt

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Hello Every Participant. Thank you for your input that was directly related to the question. I appreciate the various scenarios and will consider each carefully. I am sorry that my question has caused division and hard feelings which is the very reason I nearly did not post, which was my first, as this has sadly been the outcome of other posts viewed. Thank you
Lets ask the question here.
What are you attempting to do?
Water pump? Timing chain and gears?
What's your mechanical skill level, in working around cars?
A back yard mechanic that's capable of getting things done, or have a bit of professional experience in the mechanics trade?
I hafta agree that maybe drilling out a busted bolt in a block, can be a problem, and time consuming, but reinstalling a timing cover has really got to be a no brainer, that i'm certain that your capable of carrying out.
Good luck to you.
Happy wrenching.

You know any of the history on this engine that your working on?
The front of the engine ever been taken apart before?

I see your Ontario, meaning up in Canada.
You working on something rusty, to give you more issues?
 
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Pretty slick trick! Thanks :thumbsup:
Best penetrant I've used is PB Blaster or a 50/50 mix of trans fluid and acetone.
Ok stick with me here.:D
Just in front of the block (where the threads in the block are) you can drill a small hole through the aluminum timing cover into the bolts hole.
This will let you spray a lubricant into that bolt channel in the casting without affecting anything else.
The lube will be contained between the bolt threads in the block and the bolt head on the front of the water pump.
Once the bolt is out that little hole in the casting won’t affect a thing.
Sometimes those bolts are corroded up the shoulder as well, and the above method can help that also if that is the case.

I give the bolt head a few smacks with a hammer to help shock the threads loose.
It works most of the time and is easy to try.
 
I don't see anything here as doom and gloom. Just good advice. Obviously, one bolt is frozen. That means he has corrosion there. It's probably hardly isolated to that one spot. My point wasn't gloom and doom. It was to get in there and fix the entire problem where it will never happen again. Simple as that. I've not criticized anyone's approach here. I find it funny some criticize mine. As Jim V said, it's not a hard job. Perhaps a little time consuming, but not hard. If the OP intends on keeping the car, it's certainly the right thing to do. Even if I got that bolt out without having to remove the timing cover, it would come apart anyway, so I could clean all the bolt holes and then reseal everything and coat the bolt shafts and threads with RTV so they would never leak and never seize up again.
 
Tooljunkie thank you for the info. Did put the air hammer to it at the outset. To everyone else...all the other bolts are free. I do understand what some are saying regarding the suggestion of, “just snap it, replace bolt, gaskets, and all. Yes, and that will be the end as it has been the plan since the outset, just trying not to snap it as that is the way I am and with my luck it will snap just inside the block. The “funny thing” is that I have taken the entire front end apart and not one bolt or nut was even remotely frozen and the struts came out easy peasie, except this, this one stinking bolt. I am going to try drilling a hole and some penetrating fluid. Will let you know how it turns out. Thanks again.
 
Hello everyone. The bolt is out without being broken off, etc. Process that was used was to drill a hole large enough to insert the plastic nozzle of the penetrating spray. The engine stand caused the engine to lean forward so a 2x4 was placed under the front of oil pan and on the trolly jack so as to tilt the engine nose up. When time permitted the penetrating spray was added and a few taps from a heavy hammer were applied. The bolt was not rusted at the threads but rather around the shaft of the bolt for one half inch at the face of the engine. Today light pressure from an impact gun was all that was required to free it up after several reverse and forward light impact gun trigger pulls were used. If you are not in a rush this process is fantastic. Thank you all for your input.
 
as a friend of mine always says "Photos or it didn't happen!"

just joking, but do post some photos if you have them.
 
Good work, man. It's always nice when you win.
 
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