Fuel line problems

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rmchrgr

Skate And Destroy
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AAARRRGGHHH! Frustration!

Soooo - I put a new tank-to-pump fuel line in my Duster. It's aluminum using AN type fittings. Got it all bent up and connected. Now there is NO FUEL to the carb. Not sure how this happened but there is no fuel even getting to the pump.

Here's the sequence of events that led up to this point; removed old aluminum fuel line with rubber hose connections including metal canister fuel filter by the right rear wheel. Install new aluminum fuel line with AN fittings and Russell Pro Classic braided line from hard line to pump in engine bay. Install new XRP in line fuel filter with -6 connection to hard line and regular flare to -6 adapter where the old filter was. Go to start car, no fuel in carb bowl, no fuel to pump. Swapped fuel pump with the old one, no change.

When I first did the fuel filter, I used a compression fitting because it was really difficult to flare the end of the line from the tank. I installed it and it leaked right away. I ended up leaving it overnight because it was late. It leaked continuously, enough where there was large puddle underneath the connection the next day. I disconnected it to see what was happening and ALL the fuel drained from the tank, like almost 10 gallons. I didn't expect that to happen, what a mess. Got that under control and managed to reconnect everything. Eventually, I was able to flare the line and put a fitting on there but it's loose. Clearly I will have to remedy this with a better fitting.

I'm pretty sure this is my problem right here but it does not add up. Even if the fittings were loose or connected poorly, fuel should still be suctioned from the tank through the line. Again, no fuel anywhere.

After the fuel drained, I put 5 gallons back in. Was thinking there might not be enough fuel to suction but 5 gallons should be plenty. There is no sump in the tank, just a stock one. The line from the tank runs from the sender to the right side frame kick up, down under the wheel well and to the passenger side frame rail.

Gas is Cam 2 GT 100 octane unleaded.

Thanks for any input, need to get this resolved!
 
have you tried to fill the fuel bowls up in the carb and let the engine run, usually that should be long enough for the pump to suck fuel all through the lines....
 
sounds like it's sucking air at that fitting. and even if it isn't the problem, fix the leak before you do anything else

good luck
 
pumps work on vacuum, pulling gas out of the tank requires an airtight (or better, vacuum tight) connections from the pump to the tank. Try this: seal off hose to carb. cut a hole through a raquetball big enough for a tire inflator hose. Stick the hose on one side and press the ball into your fuel filler for an adequate pressure seal. Pressurize the tank a few lbs and maybe you can find the hiss or piss (atmosphere venting through a small tube outside the fuel filler tube needs to be plugged too) dont overpressure the tank (or if you have a big *** dent in it, go for it!) if you have a leak, the fuel will be weeping or shooting from the connector. Takes 2 people and wear eye priotection, gas in face sucks...
 
Sometimes, these lines or fittings have plastic plugs to keep debris out during storage, packaging or shipping.

I have seen (more than once) someone hook up things with the plastic plugs still in the lines.

Just something to think about, but may not be the problem.
 
Thanks gang. The loose fitting is what I suspect to be the problem, clearly I will have to take care of that before anything else. Kind of screwed myself since the filter has -6 ends so it's back to the speed shop for more fittings. Probably looking at re-doing the entire line between the tank and filter, it's all beat up anyway.

Sometimes I have to remind myself this is my hobby and it's supposed to be fun. :banghead:
 
So I finally figured out what the issue was here, just thought I'd update the thread. I was going bananas with this problem, could not figure out what the heck I did.

Turns out that I had the fuel pump arm on top of the eccentric and it wasn't pumping. Couldn't understand why there was no fuel, the pump was brand new and was working previously although briefly. During my diagnosis, I had done all sorts of stuff - checked all the fittings for leaks, even putting my vacuum pump to the line to see if it would hold - it did, sucked fuel right to the pump.

Going back a few steps, I had replaced the oil dipstick tube when I installed the new fuel pump and there is a slight interference with the pump body. Kinda had to pry on the tube and twist the pump into the block to get it to seat. Guess it wasn't correct when it tightened it up. :angry3:

I did also take some advice given here to see if it would work. Poured some fuel into the bowl and it seemed like it wanted to fire but still no pump action. In addition, the battery was low. It would crank but not fire, then the starter would click after repeated tries. Charged the battery too full and it fired right up. Once running I had pump action. :thumleft:

BTW, it really does take a bit for the pump to start working if everything is empty. Hope this helps anyone who runs into the same problem.
 
This is a ??whut?? engine? With all due respect, I don't think you can DO that without damaging the pump.
 
What size engine?

I don't think you can get the pump on the engine with the arm on the wrong side of the cam without damaging the pump
 
What size engine?

I don't think you can get the pump on the engine with the arm on the wrong side of the cam without damaging the pump

Hmmm... maybe? Engine never started before I re-installed it, guess I got lucky? Maybe not enough force to do anything to it. I actually had the old pump on there during this fiasco, (same model) had switched it out to see if the new one was bad. Engine is a 340.

So I was standing there scratching my head and decided to take the pump off again to check the arm/eccentric - two bolts and out. Looked at the arm to see if there were any witness marks/damage on the underside of it, none found, just the regular wear mark on the top of the arm. Checked the lever spring on the bench, same deal, seemed fine. Clamped it upside-down in a vice and pulled the arm down with a box wrench, you could hear the diaphragm inside. Compared it to the new one, seemed similar. Old one was kind of worn out but not completely shot.

Went back to the car, stuck a long screwdriver in to see where the eccentric was at and it was on the bottom of it's rotation. I turned the engine over (pump still out, screwdriver laying on top of the cam for visual reference) so it was at the top of it's travel and then slid the pump back in to make sure the arm was in the right place. Soon as I did that, went to start it and fired briefly which it hadn't done since before I started messing with it. Battery was now too low to start and keep it lit from repeated long cranks without fire, no way it was starting at this point, had to charge it.

Probably a combination of things here but the pump was definitely not pumping. Both the old and new one worked 100% before hand, never had a problem save for leakage at the fittings. Who knows, I could be out of my mind, completely misguided or both.

But hey after all the stupidity, car runs fine.
 
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