Fuel??timing ??or both??

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dustya_383

dustya_383

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Hey guys so I am having a hell of a time tryin to get my car running. It seems I can't get this thing to idle below 1500rpm without dying on me. I've tried the throttle adjusting screw, and turning dizzy. It won't run long enough for me to even get a timing light on it .it ran perfectly fine before on same motor just different car. Now could it be because carb was sitting for 8 months .. No fuel was In it Was just rebuilt before I tore it off. Could it be because I can't get timing set up is why it's cutting out and idling so high no vacuum leak I don't think. Also this thing heats up insanely fast What's the deal. ... This is a

410 stroker
4 speed
Full. Msd ignition dizzy 6al box blaster 2 coil
Holley 850 double pumper
Indy rhs heads
Eddy air gap intake

Thanks guys
 
Same engine in a different car and you have issues, man that sucks :violent1:. You said that it heats up quick. Did you pull the dizzy during the swap? Could it be a tooth off? My only guess is the timing is very retarded.
 
Yea sorry should have mentioned. Pulled heads and put a 1008 felpro head gasket on. So yes dizzy and intake came off
 
i would start at the basics and find BTDC at#1 with a piston stop and make sure its good. it sure does sound like a major vacuum leak though
 
Im gonna guess the dizzy is curved so run it up to 34-36 lock it in, initial will be what ever than look for the obivious, If it doesnt run like that I would agree bad vacuum leak, going from one car to another shouldnt change much, start with timing.
 
You can check the timing on the starter. In a "fight" like this that might be easier. Figure out a way to stop fuel (unhook, plug the line) and run the carb out of gas

Then set the timing. I assume you know "where it ran" and what it liked.

Then troubleshoot the fuel

I would NOT rule out a vacuum leak. Same intake? Changed carb gasket/ spacer?

Forgot to hook up a hose? PCV? Booster?
 
Can It be because of the carb sitting for a long period of time that it needs to be gone through again?? Pcv is hooked up no brake booster. No can the springs in which put pressure on the accelerator be a factor as well...

As for it getting hot I mean not even a minute and this thing is@ 210 degrees. I changed. Thermostat maybe it's my radiator??? This radiator was on my 318 and would never ever get hot I'm kind of at a loss with it right now
 
Multiple problems.Deal with cooling first.Where is your radiator from the other car? You are asking a lot,for a stock 318 rad to cool a 400+ stroker .Is it at least a 3 core radiator?.As for the idle/ die situation,possibly a plugged idle circuit.Cheap ,to pull the mixture screws out.Then,blow out the screw holes with a rubber tipped blowgun.After that,possibly rebuild time.
 
Abodybomber said:
Multiple problems.Deal with cooling first.Where is your radiator from the other car? You are asking a lot,for a stock 318 rad to cool a 400+ stroker .Is it at least a 3 core radiator?.As for the idle/ die situation,possibly a plugged idle circuit.Cheap ,to pull the mixture screws out.Then,blow out the screw holes with a rubber tipped blowgun.After that,possibly rebuild time.
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Yea THIS radiator is from THIS car and was ran on a 318 before. Now I had a stock rad That was ran on my 360 before I built the stroker, and I ran it on the stroker temporarily and it never went over 200. Is there that much of a difference between a 318 and 360 rad? Also my upper hose isn't even hot radiator isn't hot lower hose is warm put new thermostat in it filled with coolant and within literally aw min in and half it was reaching 220+. I'm using the same gauge as well its electric could it be causing a false reading?
 
did you test the thermostat before you put it in? i have gotten 2 bad thermostats in ONE day. take the thermostat out and see what it does. a cold upper and hot bottom radiator hose after running for 10-15 minutes is for sure a thermostat that isnt working. ive ran 318s and 360s with slant 6 six radiators that worked fine. check them in a pot of boiling water to make sure they are actually opening.
 
X2 ,with 360.Instead of wasting time with stock style stats,check out the Mr Gasket high flow stats.Lost,2 head gaskets myself,to the new o.e. stuff.
 
73AbodEE said:
did you test the thermostat before you put it in? i have gotten 2 bad thermostats in ONE day. take the thermostat out and see what it does. a cold upper and hot bottom radiator hose after running for 10-15 minutes is for sure a thermostat that isnt working. ive ran 318s and 360s with slant 6 six radiators that worked fine. check them in a pot of boiling water to make sure they are actually opening.
Click to expand...


Ok I will pull the thermostat and make sure it's opening I mean even if it isn't a motor wouldn't reach 220+ in less than 2 mins would it?? I've never seen a temp gauge go up so fast I'm also going to put a second gauge on and see if its accurate
 
I'm using an auto meter ultra lite electrical gauge,??? I hear I should have went mechanical .....
 
Did these problems start after the head gasket(s) was replaced?

Like one of the previous posters said, back to basics. Confirm the distributor is timed reasonably close. Then I'd suggest pulling the t/stat and run it without just to see if you have decent coolant flow - maybe you have a blockage. Even with a small radiator, I can't imagine an engine heating up that quick with a properly functioning cooling system. IF flow is good, then replace t/stat then find a way to verify temperature - second gauge, thermometer, etc- your gauge might be reading wrong. Also, check all carb settings on the bench, idle screws out 1 and 1/2 turns out from bottom out (2 or 4? Make sure they are all the same), secondary idle screw adjustment set right, accel pump not too tight, even float levels should be bench set. If carb was sitting with fuel in it, it wouldn't hurt to pull the bowls of and have a peek (gaskets are cheap). Make sure the gas in the tank is fresh too.

Once you get all these verified, then you should be able to at least keep the car running (maybe with a helpers foot on the pedal) long enough to do further diagnosis without fear of cooking the engine.
 
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