The fuse link is a chemical fuse
No, it isn't. It's an electrical fuse made out of wire a specific amount smaller in gauge size than that of the circuit being protected. The insulation is specially designed not to melt as ordinary wire insulation would. You may find it interesting and informative to read
this 1965 SAE technical paper by Chrysler on how fusible links work, how they are specified and sized, etc.
They are color coded -like "red" for the amount of current.
No, they aren't.
The replacement one are short because they are meant to be spliced in the wire harness where the old one was.
Incorrect. The length
and gauge of a replacement fuselink determine its current capacity and the delay before it opens, so both parameters must be the same as original in order to have the same protection.
When replacing wires/fuse links remember that a crimp connection is only for mechanical strength you must solder for the electrical connection.
That's not correct. A good crimp junction is superior to the average solder junction in applications (planes, trains, cars) that move and vibrate. See
here,
here, and
here (pdf).
It's plain common sense that a good junction of either type is better than a bad junction of either type. A good crimped and soldered junction may or may not be the best of all.
Obtaining a good crimp junction requires buying a real/good crimp tool and real/good terminals (the cheapy consumer-grade "wire pliers and 250 terminals for $15.99" stuff commonly available at parts stores and discount stores are junk) but only a small amount of practise.
Obtaining a good solder junction requires buying a perfectly serviceable, decent-quality solder gun + solder and miscellaneous supplies but needs a great deal of practise.
Obtaining a good crimped-and-soldered junction requires nontrivial expense and a great deal of practise.
And use heat shrink over the splice
Yes.
Original poster: you can get a correct direct replacement for your fuselink from
Bill Evans.
Circuit breakers and fuses behave differently than fuselinks — this is why fuselinks don't have straightforward amperage ratings like circuit breakers and fuses do. Take a look at
this post and the links from it (and the posts above and below it in the thread), for info on replacing fuselinks with other types of circuit protection devices if that is what you intend to do.
