garage insulation

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ktcnn94

ktcnn94

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hey guys just wanting info, idea's or opinions.
I have a metal building for use as my garage, its one of the as I call it a glorified car port. its a metal frame, metal walls and roof with a roll up door. i'm thinking about trying to put some insulation in it so I can do some work on my dart this winter, West Virginia is cold in the winter and that building is also ridiculously hot in the summer. anyway ive been doing a lot of reading online and I keep seeing these places selling radiant barriers, basically looks like aluminum foil, some of em have an air chamber in between the layers etc, they claim it resists up to 97% of heat transfer from outside to the inside of your structure. what im wondering is that if this stuff has the reflective surface on both sides wouldn't one figure that it would work the opposite in the winter for example if I have a heater running and have this barrier in place would it be reasonable to think it would keep the heat in by reflecting it back? idk help me out guys.
 
I'm not 100% on what you should do. Does the building even have a ceiling? There is probably insulation that can be blown right on the walls. It would be a good insulator and fire proof. I think before you do this yourself you should call an insulation contractor. More than likely they can do the job for less than you can get the material for. I like to build my own houses and always call an insulation guy. Top of the line insulation, fire proof, and done in a day or so. No mess at all. Always save a grand or two.
 
I have the insulation you mentioned foil with like bubble wrap white on inside. For Florida it works ok reflects heat pretty well. I don't think it works as well as fiberglass for cold. For the amount of cold here I have forced air heater sounds like a jet. It warms up 40x50x14 tall pretty well but it is N Florida.
 
thanks for the input, yeah no ceiling, basically just a frame and shell. I can do that radiant barrier for a few hundred bucks, I know you get what you pay for im just curious if anyone has done this and if it works like im thinking it should. im gonna call a spray foam company soon and see about a quote but like I said, curious if this will work or if anybody has insulated their garage if they have one built like this.
 
spray foam is way to go , fantastic insulator and moisture barrier, down side is price but can be offset buy low heating cost over time.
my shop is 30x50 and stays at 56 deg. with no heat turned on, and heats in moment with forced air

love it
Lon
 
My 30x40 metal building got a couple walls wiped out by a tornado in 2011. You can see in the beginning of that linked thread there how the shop looked before and, at Post #209 a few pages later, how it was in 2012 after the repairs were all finished. You'll be especially interested in seeing the close-ups of my high-tech temperature gun aimed at the wall before and after the insulation was adhered with F26.

Straight up, now 2 1/2 years later, I still LOVE that 'double bubble' insulation no matter what time of the year it is! It's made an absolutely amazing difference both during hot and cold weather, keeping the energy costs beyond manageable.

During the reconstruction you might see that we cut a couple holes in the west wall for some a/c units that we had on hand. Since they were put up, they've been turned on a grand total of TWICE. Between the insulation and the south wall's new covered area (which blocks a great deal of the afternoon sun), it stays about 20 degrees cooler inside than it did before. Even with a 7-foot tall oven cranking out 400 or more degrees, I can work comfortably every day without the air conditioners.

It has an R-19 insulation value, was easy (but a bit time-consuming) to install with 2 people and a few tubes of F26 construction adhesive, and around here cost $160 for a 100'x6' roll. I bought three for the shop including the ceiling and its 2 roll-up 10'x8' doors, both garage doors in the house, and still have about half a roll left.

The special tape required between panels was about $25 a roll and will cut the hell out of you -- ask me how I know :-D -- but it sticks great and I've had no issues with anything ... except the shop kitties clawing on it by the window when they get trapped in there.

If I had to do it all over again, I'd buy the stuff in a heartbeat. It came recommended by a few contractors and online, and I can surely see why.

I hope this helps!
 
I am sold on spray foam. There are two kinds: open cell and closed cell. You could, at one time, rent foam sprayers from Home Cheapo. Foam has become so affordable that H.D. has quit doing it Also, foam adds structural rigidity to building which is a double benefit. I've been in construction, and my father too, most of my life and this product beats the pink fluffy stuff and rock wool and blown in newspaper by a mile, Tom
 
You pose an interesting question. I sprayed a STS coatings product in my metal shed years ago and have been satisfied...like being in the shade on a hot day...and it gets hot here in TX! Don't think it's going to hold heat in, but I don't know for sure...think it's more an emissivity thing and not an R Value deal. A good website is Heatbloc.net-you could contact them and get good info. STS Coatings was rated one of the best in the country a few years back...if going with a spray on radiant barrier I'd check them out. From Heatbloc.net website FAQ:

DO RADIANT HEAT BARRIERS HAVE AN "R" VALUE?

No. R-values apply only to solid insulation or to insulating systems that control heat flows other than radiation. In independent testing of the product at the University of Kansas, the R-value of the insulation, after applying HeatBloc to the roof deck, increased by 87% to 98%.

I'd certainly look at insulation if I was trying to trap heat in...have the plus of holding cool air in...I was on a budget and was trying to have a shed I could work in that wouldn't heat up and bake me! Lol. Good luck.
 
Just stay away from "closed cell" spray foams they are flammable and can't be sprayed anywhere near heat, open flames, heaters or basically anything that could cause ignition. We did the 2 phase open cell spray foam insulation system in our garages down in Florida. You have to hire a professional service and its not cheap so depending on your budget you have other options, there are some DIY systems and aren't that hard to apply but can be messy. I think even home depot has a few systems for large jobs.
 
whatever, you want a complete vapor barrier

how bout that stuff they sell for pole barns, looks like big thick sealed blankets? they ain't cheap but i bet cheaper n spray an you can do it yourself
 
If the roof is just a simple layer of metal above the structure you WILL have a crap load of condensation if you allow any heat to get to it. At the very least you need to have a layer of osb and some felt so that the moisture runs down the roofing felt. Our barn/house is a truss building with a metal roof. Had nothing but batts under it the first year...damn near like it was raining in here. Had the tin roof taken off, osb and felt put down and we are dry...for now...Spray foam is an option....if you can afford it. Only local spray foam contractor wanted over 10k to do our 1700 square foot roof....Good luck.....
 
CudaChick1968, I couldn't find the link you were referring to, please send it again, thanks. also you are talking of the double sided silver barrier with 2 layers of bubbles inside correct? do you remember the name brand you used. thanks for your help
 
we wanted to do spray foam in our steel building ( 36x 60 )but at 5000+ to spray just the ceiling it would take a lifetime to recoupe the cost.
 
ktcnn94 said:
CudaChick1968, I couldn't find the link you were referring to, please send it again, thanks. also you are talking of the double sided silver barrier with 2 layers of bubbles inside correct? do you remember the name brand you used. thanks for your help
Click to expand...

Here's the link again:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=140886

The packages I bought have NO brand name whatsoever on them -- it's just wrapped up in heavy plastic. It is the double-sided foil with two separate bound layers of bubble wrap inside. The only thing I've ever heard it called was "double bubble insulation."

Edit: Thanks to Zeus the Doberman puppy attacking the basement garage doors a couple nights ago, the tape is right here though. It says Reflectix 1-800-879-3645. I hope this helps you track it down!
 
Treblig said:
A good friend of mine had a metal building built for his hot rods and had it spray foamed about 4-5 inches thick. They sprayed the ceilings and all sides. It works really good as an insulator and takes very little time to apply.

treblig
Click to expand...

I am sure, but that cannot be bought a piece at a time on a limited income.
 
I worked in a small garage maybe 24x24 that was paneled with 1\2 in. r-max type sheets and taped. While maybe not ideal it made it 100% better in both hot and cold weather than what it was, and taping it up cut the draft. The stuff is light and easy to trim just maybe with metal studs might have to go with a self tapping screw with a washer instead of the plastic washered nails. It available in different thicknesses and r values but the 1\2 inch made a huge difference on a 20 degree day in my friends garage. Just an idea.
 
I have a large pole barn and insulated the sides traditionally with the pink stuff and osb. The 16" ceiling is a pain in the A>> due to its height and my non able to get up on ladders any more. This stuff that is sold at most lumberyards/box stores worked like a champ on the ceiling to keep the heat in. Cheaper than most insulation.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Reflecti...ith-Staple-Tab-ST48100/202851852?N=5yc1vZbedf
You might be able to use a good double sided tape to put it on the metal studs with. Almost the same stuff rob shows but wider.
 
I know a guy who started with a basic all steel, enclosed carport/shed.
First he put a mostly horizontal grid of 2x2 and 2x4 wood inside, on 2 foot centers, attached to the steel with flat head screws.
Afterwards the reflectix sheeting, shelves, cabinets, work bench, overhead lighting, you name it, was attached to the wood with staples ,nails, lag type hardware.
I don't know at what cost.
 
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