Gas gauge and temp gauge dont work

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67Dart273 said:
So what's not correct? The original limiter pulses on/ off, so of course it sends "full voltage" to the gauge. I was trying to give the OP an idea of how these work. The pulse action IMITATES less than system voltage by using duty cycle.
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What I meant was it doesn't always pulse. I'll delete my previous post rather than argue. Happy moparing
 
RedFish said:
What I meant was it doesn't always pulse. I'll delete my previous post rather than argue. Happy moparing
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I'm not tryin' to argue, Red, trying to see where you're going.

So when does it not pulse, you mean when if first comes on a few seconds and "warms up" or are you referring to "when it has a problem?"

(The irony is, after I cured all the OTHER cluster problems, I have two old beat-up original limiters that seem to work just fine.)
 
What about eBay I saw some for 30 dollars.Is there anyway to tell for sure it is the voltage regulator which side is pos and which side is neg.
 
Dose anyone know anybody on this site that can make a hole new dash cluster with new gauges that will fit my car.Maybe how hard it it to do your self.I can get the gauges and cut some aluminum and inlay them in then,but then I have no Idea how to hood it up.
 
The blinker speed is affected by the bulb resistance. For example, if you install newer LED bulbs, they may not draw enough current for the factory blinker can to work correctly. Ditto for a trailer hookup. There are newer (~20 yrs) "electronic blinkers" that replace the factory "thermal blinker". They work for a wide range of bulb resistances. You can even get one that plays "Love Me Tender" when you turn (drove me crazy). The blinker can in most Darts is just above the lower dash rail, near the center, under a clip. Your problem could also be too low voltage to the lamps or blinker can.
 
In the picture below.Are there any wires that should go to the tab on the top of the regulator?

SIVRC601-1.jpg
 
1973dusterkid said:
Well I got the brandnew voltage regulator,put it in still noting so now what.
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Get the dash out where you can work with it. You have a multimeter I think? Get some clip leads from Radio Sha$$

With the dash out, pull the limiter out. You can look at the PC board traces and follow where they go.

Take your meter on "ohms" and check from EACH brass springy finger where the limiter plugs in to see if there is continuity to the board traces

There should be one trace going from one of the limiter connections to one of the gauges. The other gauge gets this same power by means of going up to the harness connector on that board, and a jumper over to a pin on the other board. In other words with the harness connected, the two gauges "hot" terminals are jumpered together.

Also use your ohmmeter to check the harness connector pins between the pins and the PC board. These pins come loose, and get corroded.

If all this checks out, Take a 9V battery and connect across each gauge while watching the gauge. The gauge should not take long to shoot upwards. Don't leave the 9V connected more than enough to test.

Make sure the gauge studs/ nuts are clean and tight on the board.

If you get this all done, and if you can figure out which connector pin jumpers the two gauges power together, clip lead that across.

Then apply 12V positive to the input of the regulator, and ground the dash cluster to battery neg. Take a clip lead and ground one of the sender terminals of one of the gauges to the neg. of the battery while watching the gauge. It should shoot up. Again, do not leave this connected any longer than necessary to test.
 
67Dart273 said:
Get the dash out where you can work with it. You have a multimeter I think? Get some clip leads from Radio Sha$$

With the dash out, pull the limiter out. You can look at the PC board traces and follow where they go.

Take your meter on "ohms" and check from EACH brass springy finger where the limiter plugs in to see if there is continuity to the board traces

There should be one trace going from one of the limiter connections to one of the gauges. The other gauge gets this same power by means of going up to the harness connector on that board, and a jumper over to a pin on the other board. In other words with the harness connected, the two gauges "hot" terminals are jumpered together.

Also use your ohmmeter to check the harness connector pins between the pins and the PC board. These pins come loose, and get corroded.

If all this checks out, Take a 9V battery and connect across each gauge while watching the gauge. The gauge should not take long to shoot upwards. Don't leave the 9V connected more than enough to test.

Make sure the gauge studs/ nuts are clean and tight on the board.

If you get this all done, and if you can figure out which connector pin jumpers the two gauges power together, clip lead that across.

Then apply 12V positive to the input of the regulator, and ground the dash cluster to battery neg. Take a clip lead and ground one of the sender terminals of one of the gauges to the neg. of the battery while watching the gauge. It should shoot up. Again, do not leave this connected any longer than necessary to test.
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Thats the thing I might be a kid but all my knowledge is in cars and the motor/body I now noting about the electrical.
 
I would def. try a sending unit first. The new guages may require the use of your existing sending unit anyway. Sending units are cheap and it's always recommended to start with the cheapest parts first if you're going to diagnose by "throwing" parts at the car.
One easy way to check sending units is to just run a wire to one in another similar Mopar. But.. You need to ground the cars together as well. You can also run a wire from your sending unit to the wire for the other cars temp gauge. Sounds crazy but it works.
 
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