Gas Mileage???

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I'm just above 11cr. Somewhere around 11.2-11.3 calculated.60cc chambers. Piston quenchheight is 0.033-0.038"The cam is small. It's CompCams 256H, or 20-221-3. DCR will be about 8.6 - 8.7:1.1.6 rockers.Engine will run on Propane only, which should be able to handle the DCR.Also went to some lengths to prep/polish the chambers and remove sharp edges to prevent detonation.This engine will be a daily driver, but with an emphasis on torque & economy.
Don't want to hijack Brasil's topic, but maybe some of this info can be of help.
This cam is 256/268/110
I don't know anything about propane and it's timing requirements.
On gas, your total cruise timing at 2200 of 46.5 should be close.
However the way you got it, on gas, wouldnt work. The mechanical is in too early and the initial would be a hair much. A bigger Vcan would be in order, to cover the difference.
But I'm pretty good at math. I saw your numbers and they did not look right in my head so I plugged them into the Wallace calculator , and it spit out a Dcr of 9.57/200psi. You may be running an unusual ignition curve, I don't know. If you are, it may be too much, and too early, and that is where the mileage went.IDK about propane.
 
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To clarify, the cam mentioned (256h) and (D)CR listed are for the 360 I'm building.
My last couple of replies were all about the 318 currently still in the car. Which has a stock cr of 8.6:1.

Propane usually wants about 5deg more initial, a fast curve and about 5-10 less total than gasoline.
I don't think I will be/can use the current timing curve on the 360 engine. Its compression ratio is way too high for that curve.
Also, I will be trying to digitally program the ignition curve and timing for the 360 with a MegaSquirt ECU.

For the 360 to-be, on the KB-site I calculated a DCR of 8.6, using the specs below;
(btw, what do you think about that last line in the table: intake closing point @ 0.050 +15 degrees)

DCR-RightHead.jpg
 
OK, gotcha
050 +15 is not enough
Most fast-rate hydraulic flat-tappet cams are about 40* to 44* less from the advertised to the 050 number. A slow cam might be up to 60degrees. Only a solid will get under 40* .
Then you have to consider the lobe shape. I would not use that method for any calculations if it would be 5 *out, that would be a huge difference.
As an example ;that 256 cam above is advertised at 256/268/110 at .006 lift, and the 050 numbers are 212/218. So that is 256 less 212 =44 degrees on the ramps. The recommended install is 106*. That puts the intake closing angle at 54* ABDC
Now to use their method; adding 15* to 212* =227* So that absolutely will not work. But if you assume that their programming adds another 15* on the closing side that we do not know about. then adding 2x15* to 218 = 248*. And that is still 256 less 248 = 8* short. Dividing that by 2, puts the ICA out 4 degrees.
Doing the math on the previous 11.3 teener, the new Dcr is 9.78/206psi. That is an increase in Dcr of 9.78 less 9.57 = .21 and 6 more psi.
So I never use that method.
 
(All cam calculations were done for the 360, not the 318.)
The way I read the line on the KB-site was: "Take the cam's intake closing point, and just add 15 to that number."
So 54° ABDC + 15 makes 69. Which is what I entered in the form and got to 8.6 DCR.

Any which way the calculations pan out, I will try to do a cranking compression test first before I'll break in the cam and engine.
 
By then it may be too late.
Lemme see if I can shed some lite on this;
You have a 360, with a 11.3 Scr, and the cam is the 256/268/110
I'm gonna assume the 360 is .030 over
If I got that right then with the cam in at 106*, the ICA will be 54*, and that leads to a Dcr(sealevel) of 9.69, with cylinder pressure of 203psi.
Using your 69*, the numbers change to 8.65/176psi.
As you can see these numbers are very much at odds
And I think I know why.
If you use the 050 numbers which are 212/218/110 in at 106 you will find the ICA to be 32* ABDC. Adding 15 to that makes 47 which is still way wrong with your cam. The number for your cam would be 1/2 of the ramp difference. So 256 less 212 x 1/2 equals 22. If you then add the 22 to the 32 you get the correct number of 54*ABDC.
Now one more time; using the 47* number, the Dcr comes to 10.1 and the pressure will be around 213psi. That is not a mistake.
The only correct number to use is the very first one of 54* ABDC.
Where you erred is starting from the ICA of 54* which is not the 050 number but rather is the advertised number.The 050 number which I do not see in the cam spec, is 32*.

None of these numbers,of course, will work on gasoline.
But again I know nothing about propane.
 
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Ouch, wait up, the light bulb just/finally went 'on' in my head.

I totally forgot the .006 and .050 valve lift differences. I thought I had calculated this earlier so I didn't pay any more attention to it. But now I see where I went wrong after I had a glance at the cam card again.
It will indeed make over 10+ DCR in the engine.
Now I'm not sure anymore if this mild cam will still work nicely with the Static CR of 11.3:1.

Propane has a higher octane rating than gasoline, varying from 100 to 112, depending on mixture composition.
Interesting topic about CR and propane;
What's the highest Compression Ratio you've run - Alternative Fuels
 
I read the thread you posted, but gleaned no useful information as to DCr on propane. I'm sorry I cannot help you more .
My gut tells me tho, that 9.69 is too high, and adding gasket is not the way to go.
 
Thanks for the insights and calculations.
I don't want to add headgaskets as I'll loose quench-height and pinging will be a given for sure.

Will try to pick the brains at the Alternative fuel forum a bit more and then decide what to do with the cam or setup.
 
Ok then
Fwiw
I reworked the numbers; I assumed the following: a bore of 4.03,stroke of 3.58, a Zero deck, a .039 FellPro gasket, 5cc eyebrows,and the aforementioned 60 cc heads. This gives us a 748.31 swept and a 73.9 chamber, and thus a 11.126 Scr.This might work with an ICA of 64* to net a Dcr of 8.89/182psi .Now,a very similar chamber size can be had with the pistons down .010, and a gasket of .029. or down .019/ and .020 gasket; just so the two add up to .039. Also Quench can be increased to about .050, before losing it's effectiveness, so there is the option of adding another 010 to either the deck or the gasket.The quench distance to stay out of has been preached as .060 to .80. I cannot verify that.
--I then built a theoretical cam around that 64*ICA and it looks like this; 264/272/114, in at 112. The overlap would be 40 degrees which is 2* less than the 256 you earlier chose. If you can find, and ordered something like this, in a solid flat-tappet or a roller, you could probably get some pretty fast ramps, such that the 050 numbers might approach;225/233/114 and that is fully 2 cam sizes larger than the previous 212/218/110. The 225 cam is a Ton-O-Fun on gas, making tremendous low-rpm torque.And the 114LDA is very automatic transmission friendly.
With a FT hydraulic, you might be stuck with 220/228/114, which is still 1.5 cam sizes bigger.And will still be a Ton-O-Fun.
The penalty for the bigger cam, might be on the power stroke, which is 4* shorter. This I suppose might cost you a tiny bit of fuel mileage at steady state speeds. But I have cruised a nearly identical combo to yours, down to 1588 rpm at 65 mph, where it returned me 32mpgUs, on 87E10.
I have no idea if this is helpful with propane.
 
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I have thought about maybe retard the cam 2 degrees (4 crank degrees), but I believe that would only give about 0.1 less Dcr.

I would have no issues upgrading to slightly bigger cam, but it will probably be a roller at the same.
But with a larger/roller cam, along comes new parts like springs and stuff.
"Economy/Mileage" is one of the main goals for this engine. The other is power.

Quench was something I really wanted optimized in this engine. I'll have a hard time giving that up despite what the general consensus is.
To me, anything larger then 0.040" piston/head distance feels 'non-optimized'.
At first I wanted to get right down to a max .030 quench, but when I learned what Scr I already was getting into, I settled with a mid/high-30s quench.

Here's another topic from the propane-forum, which to be honest, has taken away some of my concerns with my current setup;
Some engineer type questions - Alternative Fuels

I will cautiously proceed with the current setup and take good care when the time comes to break in the cam which is actually the most critical moment of the build here.
I'll probably run the engine outside the car first and break in the cam in a controlled manner and a safe timing curve in the distributor.
 
They say .030 is getting dangerously close to kissing the heads when everything comes up to temp, and as the revs go up.
They say 40 to 50 is the place to be.
I ran about .025 for a little bit, and got away with it. I am currently running .034 for 80,000 plus miles.
Some of those guys on your linked forum are successfully running over 200 psi cranking compression.Even up to 225psi.
That kindof takes us back to post #105
You have a 360, with a 11.3 Scr, and the cam is the 256/268/110
I'm gonna assume the 360 is .030 over
If I got that right then with the cam in at 106*, the ICA will be 54*, and that leads to a Dcr(sealevel) of 9.69, with cylinder pressure of 203psi.
that means you are right on the bottom edge of perfect. That also means building a decent timing curve should be easy.
Again I remind you, I know nothing about propane, But I'm learning a bunch of theory....
Another thing to think about is this;The dynamic compression ratio might be 9.69 on paper. But in a running engine,as the rpm goes up, the Dynamic increases , Eventually the dynamic approaches the static as the valves start to trap the mixture. And as the rpm goes a little higher and the volumetric efficiency increases, the engine could ultimately operate on the static. When the engine reaches it's highest volumetric efficiency it is theoretically possible that the engine could operate on an effective compression ratio greater than the static.
Furthermore, any time the engine is throttled, it cannot achieve anywhere near any of these numbers, so if you plan to use a 2bbl for instance, the engine might never see more than a fraction of any of these crs.
To see what I mean just think about the last compression test you did on any engine. You tied the throttle wide open and hit the starter. Then you let it cycle through 6 or 8 or even 10 compression cycles, for it to achieve its maximum numbers. Right? But what was the first pulse? Did it even make 50%? Probably not. So now repeat the test with the throttle closed. Every pulse will likely be considerably less,pulse for pulse, and it will take several more pulses to achieve it's maximum.This is throttling, in action.
You can also see this from the torque curve on the dyno chart. At low rpms the engine is not capable of pulling in a full air charge, so the torque is low. But the torque curve climbs with rpm and eventually peaks. This is the rpm that the engine pulls in its greatest amount of air. From this point on,there is not enough time for such an amount of air to ever again enter the chamber.So the torque curve falls off.And this is with the butterflies completely open. When the engine is throttled, the torque curve will always be less. Just imagine the same engine running on a one barrel at WOT.
-The Scr has to be low enough that the peak cylinder pressure does not exceed the ability of the fuel to resist auto ignition.After that it's just a matter of delivering the ever-changing pressure spike to the crank at the appropriate time. And this is controlled by ignition timing.
-I wonder if ,with propane, the Dcr is as important as it is with gasoline.I'm starting to think,not. Cuz some are saying propane has an equivalent octane rating of 100 or better. If that is true, then theoretically you could run Dcr equal to Scr, so long as Scr does not exceed the limit of the fuel. And some guys are running over 12.5 Scr. All in all, your conservative cam choice of 256/268/110 should be no problem.
-However, I noticed that cam,with the intake closing at 54*ABDC,has a compression cycle of 126*. That is an awful long time.
-I ran, on gas, an ICA of 61*, which give a compression cycle of 119*. I was able to very easily tune a Holley 600 to make 32mpgUS, on that number. And this cam had 53* of overlap.So I wonder if you really NEED all those 126*.
The theoretical cam I built in an earlier post, had a compression cycle of 116* , and overlap of just 40*,
-The point is, Ima thinking you could trade away a bit of compression cycle, for a bit of intake duration. This would get you a bit more power with very little loss of fuel mileage.
-With those ideas in mind, I built another cam. 260/268/114/110installed. This cam has the same 40* of overlap again. But the compression cycle is reduced to 120* and the intake decreased to 260*; thus making it about one cam-size bigger than the one you chose. I made 32 mpgUs on gas, with 13*more overlap and 1*less compression distance. You should make about 100 mpg on propane,lol.With the Scr at 11.126,the dcr comes in at 9.15/189psi. So maybe you could bump the compression higher? I see 11.6 making 9.53/199psi
-I should also say that just 40* of overlap is really small amount. I suppose you will be running iron log manifolds with that? Cuz if you are running headers, you could be leaving a lot of power on/under the table. You could easily run 10* more overlap, with little to no sacrifice in economy, yet make a bit more power and torque.
-SOoo, new theoretical cam; 264/272/110/108Icl. This guy has 48* overlap, 120* compression, a 60* Ica, and 112* of power extraction. The extra overlap will work with headers to pull in a bigger A/F charge, at WOT, to make some power. The 120* of compression will make plenty of pressure, and the 112* of power extraction will make sure every last psi possible will contribute to propelling the vehicle. It will like an Scr of 11.6, to make a Dcr of 9.53/199psi. This 11.6 is just about doable with what you have. A zero deck, the 60cc heads and if you have the 5cc eyebrows you will need a very thin gasket. Your swept is 748.3cc.(@ 30 over) To get 11.5 requires a total chamber volume of 71.27cc. adding 60+5+6.4gasket(.028) comes to 71.4, oh so close. .028 is a pretty tight quench. I ran .025 and got away with it. Did I mention that?Your results may vary.
IDK, but it sure is fun working the numbers
 
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I usually believe when folks warn for tight quench clearances, they have dragracing in mind with 6000+ rpm blasts.
Race engines also usually have larger bearing tolerances which could vary the height the pistons might end up at high rpm.
For street engines I think one can get a tad tighter with everything.

For the break-in, I will use a simple electronic distributor.
But when everything is up and running, I want to handle the timing digitally with a MegaSquirt ECU. This way I could also install a knocksensor to play it safe and still get a good curve.
 
While there is nothing wrong in your bearing thinking,the difference in clearances don't add up to even a thou. And I doubt a steel rod will rpm-stretch much, even at 7000. But a piston can sure rock in the bore, and the rod, and piston can grow with heat. That is why I chose hypers. I could run a very tight skirt clearance, and they are advertised to be more size stable than some others. Those hypers have been buzzing up to 7000 almost from day one, over 100,000 miles to date.
-I agree about streeters being able to get away with a tight quench. I mean if you added up all the seconds a typical streeter spends at above peak torque, in say 100 miles compared to below, I bet it wouldn't add up to 2%. I bet less than 1%. Ima thinking in a hundred miles the streeter will average say 35 mph, so that makes 100/35 x 60x60 =10286 seconds. That times 1% is 103 seconds. Figuring 4 seconds per blast, I see 26 blasts. That computes to 1 blast every 396 seconds or 6.6 minutes. Who drives like that? Yeah, we can get away with stuff.........
- If you put a MS on there you will spend the rest of your life tweaking it.lol
 
I'm tweaking the engine's setup already for most of my life, why not get some security for the time to come!
I've been recurving the ignition a lot of times in the past on the 318. So much even, that I've become tired of doing all this 'mechanically';

Test drive car, evade cops, pull car back in garage, remove hot distributor from back of engine (damn smallblocks), find space on workbench (read: push all the accumulated junk on it back 5 inches), remove screws, wiggle out vacuum canister, pry off reluctor, fight 5 minutes with that tiny internal c-clip getting it out, bend it back in shape, remove plate/internals, fiddle with springs, spend half an hour trying to relocate the sping that launched off into one of dark corners of the garage. Then reassemble everything, remembering which way the reluctor would go on, then hoping you remembered which way the rotor pointed in the engine. Reconnect, fire up, re-adjust timing and test drive.

Doing a timing-recurve digitally from a laptop would so much less tedious, I would be happy to do it a few times a day, or hour, on even my way to work... ;)
 
I'm tweaking the engine's setup already for most of my life, why not get some security for the time to come!
I've been recurving the ignition a lot of times in the past on the 318. So much even, that I've become tired of doing all this 'mechanically';

Test drive car, evade cops, pull car back in garage, remove hot distributor from back of engine (damn smallblocks), find space on workbench (read: push all the accumulated junk on it back 5 inches), remove screws, wiggle out vacuum canister, pry off reluctor, fight 5 minutes with that tiny internal c-clip getting it out, bend it back in shape, remove plate/internals, fiddle with springs, spend half an hour trying to relocate the sping that launched off into one of dark corners of the garage. Then reassemble everything, remembering which way the reluctor would go on, then hoping you remembered which way the rotor pointed in the engine. Reconnect, fire up, re-adjust timing and test drive.

Doing a timing-recurve digitally from a laptop would so much less tedious, I would be happy to do it a few times a day, or hour, on even my way to work... ;)

LOL you and me both, I'm really starting to resent these factory distributors. I ought to pull mine and shorten up the mechanical advance but the time/hassle to go through all the crap you just described makes it almost not worth it.
 
And when the computer link goes bellyup, or your PC dies and you can't get a new one with the O/S that is compatible with the old timing, and so now you can't adjust it, then the thought will be "darn, those mechanical systems were bulletproof' ! Pick your poison....LOL
 
The first Thing I did was get rid of that ignorant clip. I drilled and tapped the top of the shaft for a tiny allen-socket screw, and put a spacer in there to take up the play/keep the cam down, Shazzam! And then I made several cams with different slot lengths, And then I scoured my shop and local speed shop for a selection of springs. And then I made stake marks on the the dist. flange and block, so dropping it back in was a milli-second deal.After that making changes was just a few minutes a time. Got to be fun actually. Used to do it on trips to town(20 minute ride).
Oh I forgot to tell ya, I installed a dial back timing gizmo under the dash. With that deal I had a 15 degree variable timing knob.So I set the timing with the knob centered, to get 7* advance, and 8* retard. Then it was just a matter of finding out where it was too much, and how much it was too much.Man you gotta get one of those! And then recurve to hit as many targets as possible.
 
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The first Thing I did was get rid of that ignorant clip. I drilled and tapped the top of the shaft for a tiny allen-socket screw, and put a spacer in there to take up the play, Shazzam! And then I made several cams with different slot lengths, And then I scoured my shop and local speed shop for a selection of springs. And then I made stake marks on the the dist. flange and block, so dropping it back in was a milli-second deal.After that making changes was just a few minutes a time. Got to be fun actually. Used to do it on trips to town(20 minute ride).
Oh I forgot to tell ya, I installed a dial back timing gizmo under the dash. With that deal I had a 15 degree variable timing knob.So I set the timing with the knob centered, to get 7* advance, and 8* retard. Then it was just a matter of finding out where it was too much, and how much it was too much.Man you gotta get one of those! And then recurve to hit as many targets as possible.

You got any pictures of those distributor mods? Particularly the first part I'm kinda having a hard time visualizing what you mean.

Also where did you get that timing dial-back knob thing? I see MSD has one for $165... I think I need one
 
No pics fella, sorry. You will have to use your imagination.

As to the DB device, It's an old Jacob's device. It wires in where the old Orange ECU was. It has long enough wires to reach under the dash. It also comes with a second,rev-limiter knob, which works well.I use it with a factory dizzy and a big yellow Accell Supercoil.
 
There have been many of times where I was driving/accelerating on a long stretch of road where I really wondered if the engine, at this particular rpm range, would like more or less ignition advance.
A advance/retard knob on the dash would have given me that info.
I've once even thought of rigging a cable to the distributor housing and being able to rotate it a small amount while driving.
 
There have been many of times where I was driving/accelerating on a long stretch of road where I really wondered if the engine, at this particular rpm range, would like more or less ignition advance.
A advance/retard knob on the dash would have given me that info.
I've once even thought of rigging a cable to the distributor housing and being able to rotate it a small amount while driving.

Whoa that's a cool idea (cable on the distributor), I may have to try that if I can't get a dial-back device to work with my Mallory system.
 
I have a 1975 360 in a 70 Duster, w/an Edelbrock Performer Manifold, headers, 9.5:1 compress, 3:55 rear, and a Holley 750 DP using the smallest jets size recommended by Holley for the 750 with a mild cam at 12 on the highway at 65mph. I have factory electronic ignition, but it is tuned right and all. I had to keep the secondaries from opening to get 12! I run Super Unleaded too. I plan on adding that lead substitute. Anyone use that stuff?

If you find out what the prob is or how to increase your mileage please post it!

Thanks
 
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