Gas/oil press gauge inop

[Backally]

As the title says, started the car and gas gauge went it E and oil press gauge didn’t move. 70 Duster, rally dash. 5v ivr? Fuses are good, anything else I can check?

 

[cudamark]

Temp gauge didn't come up either once it warmed up? If so, yeah, probably the IVR or a connection to it. Do yourself a favor and get the electronic one as a replacement.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Don't get the 5V regulator chip. Get a 6V. That's the one you need.

 

[Backally]

So went back out to doublecheck something, turn the key to run and the gas gauge climbs. Huh? Had previously run for about 20-30 seconds and neither the gas or oil press gauge moved. I hadn't run it enough to check the temp. So started it up, and everything works normal. WTF? I hate intermittent electrical issues.

 

[cudamark]

Those factory IVR's will do that, and so will bad connections on the circuit board.

 

[RustyRatRod]

So went back out to doublecheck something, turn the key to run and the gas gauge climbs. Huh? Had previously run for about 20-30 seconds and neither the gas or oil press gauge moved. I hadn't run it enough to check the temp. So started it up, and everything works normal. WTF? I hate intermittent electrical issues.

Remove the cluster and look at the speed nuts that hold the gauges in. I just bet the connections to the circuit board are bad from the speed nuts working loose. Remove the speed nuts and clean them up real good and also clean the circuit board where they make contact. Then put them back on and tighten them up good. If that doesn't do it, then the IVR is on the way out.

 

[67Dart273]

Rally dash the IVR is inside the fuel gauge. You will have to bend the contact open / RTV it to disable that and make sure there is no wiring in there than can screw things up, then "hack" an IVR in from the outside. The fuel gauge has three terminals. One is the sender, one was 12V IN to the IVR, and the remaining was the IVR output which jumpered to the other two gauges.

As Rusty said check connections. And add a ground pigtail from the cluster to the dash frame.

Check the PC board harness connector pins. You may have to solder them to the board traces

 

[RedFish]

OOPS, somehow I read temp/oil press inop and thought the fuel gauge was working. Go to sender wire with a volt meter. Look for a low pulse voltage. If not present the limiter isn't working.
You dont have to open the fuel gauge to add on a outboard solid state regulator. Just lift the fuel gauge from the housing and isolate its backside from ground.
Add on doesn't have to be on the instrument panel either. Mount it anywhere you like with a little more wire. Take the switched 12 volt wire out of the round harness connector and route it to the add on. Done. 12 volts goes where it should, 5 volts can't go anywhere it shouldn't.