gear and pinion set up 8 3/4 489 case

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earthmover

in the tire smoke
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could someone give me some info on setting 1 of this up???? i just got my 4.56 gears and thinking of trying it ....if its not to bad...thanks mike
 
There is a sticky that shows you how to do it?????
 
You will need some dedicated tools to do the job right.

Do you have:

  • A way to check pinion depth?
  • Access to a press or a checking bearing?
  • Dial indicator?
  • Spanner wrench for the side adjusters?
  • Torque wrench that goes over 200 ft lbs?
  • Yoke holding tool?
  • Seal and race drivers?
  • Marking compound?

If so, go for it, it really isn't that bad!

Don't forget an extra crush sleeve for when you over tighten the pinion nut... doh! And a shim pack. And a bearing kit.
 
There is a ton of information out there regarding this. I rebuilt my entire rear a year and a half ago. I was slightly intimidated at first, but after researching it and doing a lot of reading I was able to accomplish it with success.

You will need a few specialized tools, some can be made rather easily.

Here is some reading for you.

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/sch/04/8-3-4-gear-set-up/--2f---/articles/index.html

One thing to pay close attention to is make sure you mark the bearing caps in the carrier before you take it apart, they need to go back in the same orientation.

Here is a couple of tools you can make yourself, if you have some scrap steel and a welder.

One to hold the yoke, one for spanner.
 

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The biggest tip I can offer is to hone the old large pinion bearing until it is a slip fit on the new pinion gear. That way you won't have to keep pressing the bearing on and off getting the shims right and risk destroying the new bearing. When you get the correct shim that gets the gear depth right, just press on the new bearing. As long as the old bearing is still in good shape, you won't see any difference from the old to the new bearing. As far as backlash, I always set it up at around .005-.008". After a while, you won't need a dial indicator anymore.
 
The biggest tip I can offer is to hone the old large pinion bearing until it is a slip fit on the new pinion gear. That way you won't have to keep pressing the bearing on and off getting the shims right and risk destroying the new bearing. When you get the correct shim that gets the gear depth right, just press on the new bearing. As long as the old bearing is still in good shape, you won't see any difference from the old to the new bearing. As far as backlash, I always set it up at around .005-.008". After a while, you won't need a dial indicator anymore.


Yup, that's what I did, sure made life easier.
 
Another trick if they are used ring and pinion is to set up the pattern on the caost side rather than the drive side. The coast is never worn as much...
 
Loose the crush sleeve and get a crush sleeve eliminator; makes the job 100% easier.
 
Just got done with mine, Had a heck of a time trying to get it set up. No matter what I did I couldnt get a good pattern onthe gears. Come to fing out thepattern compound I was using was too thick or something, I bought a different thinner compund and was fine after that. But overall it was pretty easy, just wish I would have known about the compound before I pulled the diff apart about 20 times!!!
 
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