getting pissed off!

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I'm not good enough to fix the individual components. I just find other used parts that work and swap them out, once I'm sure that the wiring and circuits are good.
 
64val67gtx said:
Dude i got power going to the thing,, got that far.. it smoked and the (2) gauges temp and fuel pegged one day while driving, ever since it has been intermittent. now it has become a problem and i got nothing... but i still have power coming to the pin that goes to the fuel to power up the (2) units... now im challenged on how to take the gauge apart and add a solid state unit to my 64 gauge to make it work all the time... .if everything else keeps working in future
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In my experience, when the gauges "surge" (the needles raise up a few notches and then go back after a while), it is usually in the voltage limiter. Either the voltage limiter doesn't have a good solid ground or is going out and needs to be replaced.

From your description, it sounds like you are getting the surges to the gauges that I am talking about.
 
64val67gtx said:
This is one of the sites that is vauge... Who on here has done this! and had it work? pics for the dumbass i dont understand how wiring something after ripping apart the gauge is going to solve my porblem.
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Pics for me the dumbass! not the guy who tryed to help me how is he supposed to know that i already read that website? im not harping on him...
 
If you were not so blatantly beligerant, someone might reach into their personal stash and send you a known working gauge.........just a thought.
 
Isnt the voltage limiter inside the fuel gauge? thats the dammed thing that powers the temp as well right? so how do i convert that over to solid state? with pics? im i being clear? maybe the member here arent seeing wht im trying to do... im sorry if im not being clear....
 
The Lebanese guy would draw out the "o" in so, like sooooo. And then say "pissed off" like it was all one word real fast. Like:

I'm soooo pissedoff...


Ok everybody say it with me....

I'm soooo pissedoff.....

Very good!!
 
I just dont understand... i have no silver box behind the cluster just the gauges, isnt the limiter inside? Like i said i cannot find anything online about this.. so i didnt expect anyone else to. just someone who has done this succsessfully
 
krazykuda said:
The Lebanese guy would draw out the "o" in so, like sooooo. And then say "pissed off" like it was all one word real fast. Like:

I'm soooo pissedoff...


Ok everybody say it with me....

I'm soooo pissedoff.....

Very good!!
Click to expand...

I teeell u fie tine hoow u fixa de gauge... u fixa.
 
64val67gtx said:
Isnt the voltage limiter inside the fuel gauge? thats the dammed thing that powers the temp as well right? so how do i convert that over to solid state? with pics? im i being clear? maybe the member here arent seeing wht im trying to do... im sorry if im not being clear....
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I haven't worked on the 64 vingage ones. I've done many 67/68 clusters. The voltage limiter looks just like the condensor for the points ignition that comes off of the distributor. It is a round silver metal cylinder with a u-shaped connector attached to the cylinder and a wire coming off that hooks up to a stud. Make sure that the wire is connected to the proper stud if you have one like that. I've seen where many people put them back together on the wrong stud.
 
krazykuda said:
I haven't worked on the 64 vingage ones. I've done many 67/68 clusters. The voltage limiter looks just like the condensor for the points ignition that comes off of the distributor. It is a round silver metal cylinder with a u-shaped connector attached to the cylinder and a wire coming off that hooks up to a stud. Make sure that the wire is connected to the proper stud if you have one like that. I've seen where many people put them back together on the wrong stud.
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Ya mine is different this is the problem with this convo... dude tryed to help me i acted like a ***... sorry hence why this is in early a bodies... so can i even convert this early unit? is this why everyone is saying to just change the gauge? please?
 
It has an internal voltage limiter honestly it is difficult to rebuild yourself. The ni-chrome wire is expensive, specialized and not really sold by the foot.

get in contact with Ben at http://www.demonivr.com/Superior.html
he can rewind the gauge, gut the regulator and hook you up with a new voltage limiter with much better electronic's. The temp gauge may also be kaput from the over voltage. He can rewind that and calibrate both.



64val67gtx said:
i did pry the thing back to see what your talking about and it is burnt... so it is pretty much useless now, the thing i need to know is the gas gauge itsself... now it powers the temp and fuel i got that far... but im having a hard time figureing out how to modify it? u can tell by my grammer im done! i dont want to brown rig it... i want to fix it like these other people but with nothing but vauge sites its nearly impossible
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You could learn to do it yourself.
Go to swap meets, ebay, etc.., buy 6 identical gauges and scrap the first 3 before you figure out what you can and cant do.
Do what some of my customers have done , clamp a contact post in a vise, crush those threads, break the fiber backboard in half. try to get solder to stick to ni-chrome wire LOL, Smear some JB Weld on it, LOL Just bend the little thingy, LOL
Doctors, Lawyers, Engineers, and even dealership service techs send the gauges out for repair/service. I've serviced 209 of the 3 post gauges to date, along with about as many 2 post gauges ( I don't keep count on those ).
Now, Can I tell you how to do it ? Same answer to you that I've sent a bunch of times.
If you ask Tiger Woods how to play golf, Would his lengthy explanation and new set of clubs make you a winner ? Not likely.
 
I absolutely understand. Yes you can do the SS limiter but you need to disable the internal voltage limiter first. the top of the gauge prys up and slides off over the needle you can see where it is pinched onto the body of the gauge housing. Secondly the ni-chrome winding and or insulation for the gauge is fried and needs to be replaced. I do recommend having it rebuilt over getting another used (same problem) gauge.


64val67gtx said:
Isnt the voltage limiter inside the fuel gauge? thats the dammed thing that powers the temp as well right? so how do i convert that over to solid state? with pics? im i being clear? maybe the member here arent seeing wht im trying to do... im sorry if im not being clear....
Click to expand...
 
So what your saying is... The gauge burnt up, and there is no way other then the option u pasted? can u wire a 67+ silver box to it via 3 wires? why have i ran into a few pics online "64 cluster" with some chip on the back? did they inturnally rewire that as well? good info... can i just buy that unit and install without modding my gauge? thats sounding a little more promising.
 
My gauges were fluctuating wildly one day (intermittently) and I discovered power wire off of alternator fixin' to come off...

On a side note, its much better to be pi$$ed off than pi$$ed on..:cussing:
 
eestatic said:
My gauges were fluctuating wildly one day (intermittently) and I discovered power wire off of alternator fixin' to come off...

On a side note, its much better to be pi$$ed off than pi$$ed on..:cussing:
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Well i guess ill get a stock gauge and Not upgrade and wait for it to go out and be back at step one. i thought this was a simple thing. no wonder im getting so angry, at this poor design.
 
you can check resistance at the back of the fuel gauge and it should be about 20 ohms. but understand even if it reads 20 doesn't mean it is good once it gets hot and moves it might short out. There are certainly other people who rebuild gauges.
You will need to disable the internal limiter. then try the external limiter worse case the gauge is fried and it wont work, best case it will work fine.


64val67gtx said:
So what your saying is... The gauge burnt up, and there is no way other then the option u pasted? can u wire a 67+ silver box to it via 3 wires? why have i ran into a few pics online "64 cluster" with some chip on the back? did they inturnally rewire that as well? good info... can i just buy that unit and install without modding my gauge? thats sounding a little more promising.
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I understand the frustration and yes that can be the result. I've been there - done that. I got tired of ripping the dash out and finally fixed it once and for all. I don't think when these cars were designed they were meant to be around in 50 years. Some things just have a limited life span...

64val67gtx said:
Well i guess ill get a stock gauge and Not upgrade and wait for it to go out and be back at step one. i thought this was a simple thing. no wonder im getting so angry, at this poor design.
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here are some pictures of the inside may not be exact but close. you can see the limiter before and after (disabled bent) better to gut it but....
 

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Try to contact auto meter through their web site and see if they have a gauge that you can use. Just a thought. Tell them what you have and ask if they have anything that will work.

My son is looking into replacing his gauge in our 65 Dart wagon. Here is what they replied to us for an aftermarket gauge for our 65 Dart:

Karl,

The stock Dart sending unit is 73-10 ohms. The correct gauge in that series would be the 4715.

Thank you
Matt


Maybe this will help you and be the "newer" style electronics that you are looking for. This is the gauge with the carbon fiber look to it. They may have similiar ones with different looks to them, contact them for more info.
 
Rocky_JS said:
you can check resistance at the back of the fuel gauge and it should be about 20 ohms. but understand even if it reads 20 doesn't mean it is good once it gets hot and moves it might short out. There are certainly other people who rebuild gauges.
You will need to disable the internal limiter. then try the external limiter worse case the gauge is fried and it wont work, best case it will work fine.




I understand the frustration and yes that can be the result. I've been there - done that. I got tired of ripping the dash out and finally fixed it once and for all. I don't think when these cars were designed they were meant to be around in 50 years. Some things just have a limited life span...
Click to expand...
How do u disable the internal thing... this is what i have been trying to findout? if it is disabled then? how do i rewire what wire? what order? color? how? all that? lol this is what i have been asking?
 
You really should get a factory service manual and a volt/ohmmeter. No one here can do anything but give you good guesses as to what the problem may be. You're the only one who can actually find out what really caused the failure. You. No one else through the computer. You. Harbor Freight sells a pretty nice volt/ohmmeter cheap and you can find a factory service manual on C/D on ebay pretty cheap or in print for a little more. You need to learn basic electrical diagnostic skills, because you have an old car and electrical problems will come up again. Learn to diagnose and repair it yourself and you will be much better off in the long run.
 
BAMMM thats what i was looking for! son of a... why couldnt my dumbass find that... ok bend the mechcanical voltage limiter, and install a 67+ limiter ok awesome i have power going to my gauges i have made a ground, now i need to do this thank U! and sorry for the poor guys that have no idea what im trying to explain clearly.
 
Here's some information that might help. I am using the limiter which I purchased from RTE on my 64 dart. They are no longer in business so I'm not sure what would be the correct one to use instead. The picture from ebay looks similar to the one I used but not exact. You might call D & M Restoration (800-722-0854) and ask them what type of limiter you could use. They mentioned the ir9 limiter which looks like the one on ebay below but when I told them I had the internal limiter they got sort of confused. Here is a link on the ir9 limiter.

I didn't disable my own fuel gauge but had it done by someone. They used the type of external limiter shown here which worked but the response on the gauge seemed a little slow. With the limiter I got from RTE the gauge comes up pretty quickly after a 3-4 second delay.

Good luck!

rte.jpg


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The limiter I bought from RTE engineering works for me but they are no longer in business. Here's one on ebay that looks similar, though not exact.

ebay.jpg


General gauge guidelines from RTE.

general.jpg
 
Yep just bend the little thingy LOL
No matter how many times you R&R that panel or how much of it you screw up in the process, I'll still be here and willing to help you. PM me when you're ready.
Good luck
 
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