Gil 1965 sparkless Valiant

[GilValiant65]

Hello, I am glad to be a member. I think I will need help from the start, I have been doing cleaning and more cleaning but I would like to get some action on the engine compartment. I replace the old coil due to a no spark situation, cleaned all contacts and no luck or no spark. I replaced the ballast and no spark either. I did not replace the condenser since it controls the spikes but should not affect having a spark.

I am getting about 11 volts at the positive of the coil and at the end of the coil cable to the distributor when the ignition key is on the on position. I installed the new coil the same way the old was, the negative goes back to the distributor. The condenser and the green wire goes to the positive.

Any recommendations? Thanks A Gil

 

[67Dart273]

"Some stuff."

1....Condenser WILL and DOES affect spark. Now, I assume we are talking about the condenser IN the distributor and not the one on the + side of the coil, which is for radio noise Breaker points systems MUST have a good condenser.

2.....Measuring voltage is a great start, but Mopars have TWO sources of ignition

A...."Igntion run" or IGN1 traditionally dark blue. This is ONLY hot in the "run" position and goes COLD during cranking

B...."Bypass" or IGN2, traditionally brown. This is where STARTING voltage for the ignition comes from, is only hot in cranking, and is the ONLY source of starting voltage

3....So take your meter and clip to coil + and crank the engine USING THE KEY and not by jumpering the starter relay. You should read "close to" same as battery during cranking

4.....You measured voltage in run...............This reading you got seems wrong. Here's why. With key in "run" and engine stopped, and with a factory ballast and coil, AND WITH the points CLOSED, that coil voltage will typically be 6-8V or so. It varies. THIS IS DETERMINED by the points resistance when closed, whether the points are closed or open, by the coil being used, and the ballast being used, and of course the charge state of the battery.

If points are open, this reading will be "same as battery," or about 12.6

5...Most dwell meters have a "points resistance" test. This essentially measures voltage drop across the points when closed. Hell, I can't even remember what this is supposed to be, anymore, but I'm going to guess less than 1/2 volt and probably less than 1/4 volt (250mv) What I'm getting at here, is if the points are closed, the worse the points resistance, the HIGHER the coil + voltage reading will be

 

[AJ/FormS]

And if the condenser is shorted or open it will not spark. Period.

 

[67Dart273]

And if the condenser is shorted or open it will not spark. Period.

10 cotton pickin' FOUR

 

[Bozwel]

I did not replace the condenser since it controls the spikes but should not affect having a spark.

the condenser has quite a profound effect on the spark. it helps the magnetic field in the coil collapse quicker producing a bigger spark

 

[67Dart273]

the condenser has quite a profound effect on the spark. it helps the magnetic field in the coil collapse quicker producing a bigger spark

It actually does more than that. The coil / condenser trade energy "several times" known as "ringing" or tank circuit "flywheel effect."

In the diagram, what is called "coil oscillations" are the trading back and forth between cap and coil. You cannot see this during the spark which is the flat line to the left. If you unhook a plug wire, you can see it clearly

 

[BillGrissom]

Gil,
Tell us more how you measured spark (in-line spark tester?). A simple test, it disconnect the dist. wire from coil- and connect an alligator jumper. Touch it to BATT- (best, or engine block) to charge up the coil magnetic field (takes ~1 msec), then pull it away. You should see a strong spark each time you pull it off. Don't let the metal touch your hand or you will feel it. If it does spark, the points should do the same thing (open and close), so trouble-shoot from there.

 

[64cudaV8]

Unless you want to keep it original get an HEI unit for the distributor. more reliable and user friendly.