Going to a 2 wire field alternator

[44o gts dart]

Hey guys ,, my 1969 dodge dart rb engine had a 1 + post and 1 field wire alternator, the replacement from classic industries has 1 + post and 2 field terminals,,, do I just y off the one wire going to alternator fields or do I run it from something else ? I am sure someone has already ran into this,,, TIA

 

[RustyRatRod]

Hey guys ,, my 1969 dodge dart rb engine had a 1 + post and 1 field wire alternator, the replacement from classic industries has 1 + post and 2 field terminals,,, do I just y off the one wire going to alternator fields or do I run it from something else ? I am sure someone has already ran into this,,, TIA

Ground one field terminal and attach the other as normal.

 

[44o gts dart]

Ground one field terminal and attach the other as normal.

Thank you very much,, doesn’t matter which ?

 

[RustyRatRod]

Thank you very much,, doesn’t matter which ?

Nope.

 

[44o gts dart]

Thank you very much,, doesn’t matter which ?

Thank you

 

[Dana67Dart]

Thank you very much,, doesn’t matter which

Nope

It might....

A replacement alt that is sold to work on a 69 A body should have one of its terminals already and internally grounded.

If you look at the 2 field terminal also one should be cut off. They don't do a good job cutting it so it kind of looks like a blade for a connector.

Before you go connecting things check with a multimeter check each field terminal to ground. One should have close to 0 ohms (direct short)
The other 60 ohms or so. (I don't know the actual value but it will be higher then 0 and less than 1000s or ohms


Post a photo of your new alternator

 

[44o gts dart]

It might....

A replacement alt that is sold to work on a 69 A body should have one of its terminals already and internally grounded.

If you look at the 2 field terminal also one should be cut off. They don't do a good job cutting it so it kind of looks like a blade for a connector.

Before you go connecting things check with a multimeter check each field terminal to ground. One should have close to 0 ohms (direct short)
The other 60 ohms or so. (I don't know the actual value but it will be higher then 0 and less than 1000s or ohms


Post a photo of your new alternator

I will definitely check these

 

[Dana67Dart]

Red arrow points to the grounded and trimmed off terminal.

This as an aftermarket round back housing that can be either an isolated field or grounded field alternator

Most of the repos today are square backs or revised square backs, as round back cores are hard to come by.

The rebuilders simply modify the brushes to have one grounded for 69 and earlier applications

 

[67Dart273]

I would add one more wire and convert to the 70 style VR. They are a much better design, and easier to get a decent one in this chineseoizationized world

Simple. Branch off your ignition run circuit and run a second blue to either of the field terminals on the new one.

Connect the remaining one to the green as normal

At the VR, obtain a 70/ later VR and pigtail. Connect the original blue IGN wire to the blue on the new pigtail. Connect the origininal green wire to the green on the new pigtail. Mount the VR make CERTAIN it is grounded--star lock washers, and plug it in.

 

[67Dart273]

Dana made a very good point about checking the new one. These are incorrectly "dual field" or "two field." They are correctly "isolated field," meaning not grounded.

The rebuilders have a terrible time getting these right. Whether selling an isolated field that got grounded to sell as a 69/ earlier, or just by mistake, that can sure cause problems.

 

[MOPAROFFICIAL]

Hey guys ,, my 1969 dodge dart rb engine had a 1 + post and 1 field wire alternator, the replacement from classic industries has 1 + post and 2 field terminals,,, do I just y off the one wire going to alternator fields or do I run it from something else ? I am sure someone has already ran into this,,, TIA

Do as Rusty says, or as 67dart273 says..upgrade to the new style regulator. It's known to be much more reliable.. though there are very cheap versions made these days that might prove otherwise

 

[Dana67Dart]

I replaced my old round back for a modified square back while I found a round back to replace it.

The newly rebuilt square back did not perform any better than the old round back.

At idle the alt gauge would bobble back and forth. Off idle they both were steady.

Personally I think it is a wives tail that the square backs are better.

Easier to replace the diodes absolutely.

 

[MOPAROFFICIAL]

The squarebacks I tried roll from the seventies, late '70s and had a higher amperage. They were known to even fry the older cars wiring if some upgrades weren't done. 65 amp on the round back and around 100 amp on the Square back

 

[abodyjoe]

.........

 

[Kendog 170]

Personally I think it is a wives tail that the square backs are better.

Back in the day 80's. I was told the square back were better keeping the headlights from dimming at idle. I don't know if that's true though.

 

[44o gts dart]

Red arrow points to the grounded and trimmed off terminal.

This as an aftermarket round back housing that can be either an isolated field or grounded field alternator

View attachment 1716419477


Most of the repos today are square backs or revised square backs, as round back cores are hard to come by.

The rebuilders simply modify the brushes to have one grounded for 69 and earlier applications

I will check the new alternator closer and post a picture, classic industries was supposed to send a new voltage regulator to go along with alternator…

 

[RustyRatRod]

Do as Rusty says, or as 67dart273 says..upgrade to the new style regulator. It's known to be much more reliable.. though there are very cheap versions made these days that might prove otherwise

Cool avatar. lol

 

[Dave999]

I jacked it all in and fitted hitachi off a nissan, mainly cos i found a new one for £35 works with the electronic version of the early black 2 wire hump cover regulator no problem

Hitachi LT 150 188 for 50 amp external regulator
150 means 50 amp LT means external regulator 188 is version 188 they are all the same

Hitachi LR150 for an internal regulator same format internal regulator in a plastic lump on the back

easy to rebuild fan goes the right way etc

on a knackered datsun in your local junk yard ally spacer and a few washers Done

also used on chevys same model, rebuilt by delco remy on rock auto et al

have a mini denso off a Kubota mini digger floating about as well which one day when i make a bracket, i will fit... like a baby birdcage alternator so a bit more in keeping. they need an idiot light hook up through and i dont have one set up....yet. the hitachi doesn't hence it went first

Dave

 

[Dana67Dart]

my 1969 dodge dart rb engine had a 1 + post and 1 field wire alternator, the replacement from classic industries has 1 + post and 2 field terminals,,, do I just y off the one wire going to alternator fields or do I run it from something else

@44o gts dart My assumption was that you were not looking to go from factory stock grounded field alternator to an isolated field alternator. But the alternator you received appeared to be an isolated field alternator (may or may not have been properly setup for your application) and you needed to know how to use in your grounded field voltage regulator car.


Please confirm that so everyone can calm down about you changing your charging system over to an isolated field system.

If my assumption was wrong then I'll calm down

 

[44o gts dart]

Ok, after ohm testing alternator . The one terminal is grounded, so it is a plug and play . My question is if they sent me the correct regulator for that alternator and my car,,, it appears to look like the one in the trunk

 

[Dana67Dart]

Ok, after ohm testing alternator . The one terminal is grounded, so it is a plug and play . My question is if they sent me the correct regulator for that alternator and my car,,, it appears to look like the one in the trunk

yep they sent you a functional replacement for your grounded field alternator

Note the trimmed off terminal

Regulator in the trunk?

what charging issues have you been having?

I have never seen a VR that looks like that. what was the Classic ind part number.

do you have the matching connector for that regulator? (it is reminiscent of a Ford VR)

does it have all these terminals on the back?

this is what the traditional grounded field voltage regulator for a 69 looks like and it is mounted on the firewall

 

[44o gts dart]

Ok, after looking and ohm testing terminals,, one of the terminals I was thinking needing plugged in, is spiked and grounded.. so I cannot plug a connector on it,,, so It is a really a plug and play.. with the positive post and one field wire,,, now my question is if they sent me the correct voltage regulator..it appears to be like the one with vehicle??

 

[67Dart273]

"Correct." There is not necessarily a "correct." In theory, a 12V alternator regulator that can handle the field current, and when properly installed, will properly regulate. I BELIEVE, EG, that Francis sends Ford ones with his wiring kits

One problem is, that some of the newer isolated field and or rebuilts draw more field current, and can burn the protection in the original RV. Ddin't the give you a connection diagram for the one you showed? The older Ferd and GM 4 terminal look similar but are wired differently. I have no idea what that one there, is.

Just for example:

VR-88 Voltage Regulator (only)

For those with Externally Regulated alternators, regardless of make.

www.ronfrancis.com

 

[44o gts dart]

yep they sent you a functional replacement for your grounded field alternator

Note the trimmed off terminal

View attachment 1716419724

Regulator in the trunk?

what charging issues have you been having?

I have never seen a VR that looks like that. what was the Classic ind part number.

do you have the matching connector for that regulator? (it is reminiscent of a Ford VR)

does it have all these terminals on the back?

View attachment 1716419729



this is what the traditional grounded field voltage regulator for a 69 looks like and it is mounted on the firewall

View attachment 1716419730

Ok…I believe that it is called a Ron Francis regulator that they sent me. It does have the 4 terminals in the back like you showed. And yes, when I bought this vehicle it was a roller, and a lot of the parts, wiring, components were in the trunk,, a lot were not attached to the firewall..this vehicle hasn’t been on the road since the early 90’s.. I sent pictures of the 2 regulators that were with car

 

[Dana67Dart]

The one on the left is a isolated field regulator and the one on the right is a grounded field regulator.

Both look a bit worse for wear. BUT... Both might work still.

Get a photo of the rear of the one on the right.

When you said trunk I thought you meant it was mounted in the trunk.

I get it now loose parts in the trunk