good 318 combo

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thank you rumble! What started as a confusing mess about two hours ago is now very clear. Thank you for the step by step crash course! I am doing EXACTLY as you said. One ? remaining. I am using the stock heads for the time being. Should i take the heads with the block and just have them re done? if so, what rockers? Do rockers matter with a flat tappet cam? I am done for the night, exam tomm. I will check the post tommorow. Thanks again!
 
thank you rumble! What started as a confusing mess about two hours ago is now very clear. Thank you for the step by step crash course! I am doing EXACTLY as you said. One ? remaining. I am using the stock heads for the time being. Should i take the heads with the block and just have them re done? if so, what rockers? Do rockers matter with a flat tappet cam? I am done for the night, exam tomm. I will check the post tommorow. Thanks again!

Your welcome.

If your useing your stock heads, have the machinest rebuild them. Chances are there a little worn out and need to be freshened up a bit. Depending on the cam being used, a head mod or 2 could be inorder for best results with your build. This is dependent on the cam and performance sought/goal your after/et, etc....

On rockers, IF your useing a Hyd. cam, then the ones you have will do. IF there worn, you can get new replacements from MoPar Performance for about $80, the whole set for that price.

IF your useing a mechanic cam, then you need adjustable rockers and different pushrods to match. They'll also be shorter. To figure out the new length, you'll need an adjustable pushrod checker to deterim the new length. The easiest way to do this is call up Hugesengines.com and ask for tech help. The tech will ask you a couple of basic questions and send you a adjustable push rod checker tool with instructions on how to do it. Send them back the tool in it's proper length you have used to check with. They'll make up a set of pushrods for you and send them out to you.

While a little pricey, it is worth it since your not doing any machine work or guessing. It all gets done for you in the length you need and the thickness you need. No guessing, no fuss, no muss, just adjust the tool and send it out.
Done!

Good luck on your test.
 
I am impressed with the little 318 I built for mine:
030 KB845 pistons
302 heads(home ported)
11.3 :1 comp
XE-274 comp solid cam
stock valve sizes
stock crank 010
scat I beams($288/set on ebay)
air gap
750 mech. sec.
1-5/8 dougs headers
made my 3200# car run 13.46 first run out @5800'.
Made me a believer in the 318 as a great alternative to 340's &360's which are getting scarce around here.
 
first of all he said he wants a stroker but it is out of his budget so a 360 is a good alternative for anyone in the same position dont you think?

Dude your arguing with a staff member...
 
if your planing to by eddie heads I would do that now instead of rebuilding your stock heads, no reason to spend money twice, then you can rebuild the bottom end with a stroker crank when you get the money for that, no reason to get new stock pistons now and have to replace them when you stroke it later as the stroker crank requires special pistons, once again why spend the same money twice? a set of eddie heads, intake, carb, and cam will make a big improvement to your stock bottom end and all the parts will be usable with the stroker motor
 
Dude your arguing with a staff member...
And it should not make a bit of difference

I all ways stand up to bullies never back down its the american way
and no one is arguing just a spirited difference of opinion

G.D. RIGHT! I agree 100% and got your back!

Were all good here rocker dude. Caferacerx is just fine in my book. Were just poking each other in the ribs. My apollogies, I have re-read it all and I think it is safe to say that it can be read as if I am a bit hostile and hot.

Lets carry on...
 
Taking heads in tommorow, don't have a truck available for the motor. I am going to tell them to clean em and replace the valves etc. Should I have any special work done? I obviously want as much power as possible and couldn't give two ***** about fuel economy. The cam is still in the air rumble, I just want lopey goodness.
 
Before you take the heads in, for anything!!!!

What is the plan?
What do you want out of the car/engine
Perfromance ET goal?

Whats the gear ratio and tire size being planned for this?
Is a changing of the stall converter OK?

All this must...MUST be known for any thing to go foward from here otherwise it's just shooting yourself in the foot...er...wallet too.

I'll be back tomorrow, Chow for now.
 
Stall change is fine. I have factory tires and wheels, the ratio is unknown. With stock heads I would love 300 hp. More would be great, but I think 300 is fair. I am stumped on selecting a cam. I do not mind higher rpm's though. My limitations are:no new heads, but I will do any upgrades that will help. No stroker yet. I am willing to have any machine work needed done. Pistons, cam, carb, rockers, machining are all fair game!
 
Ahh, my bad guys 8)

No problem. I really don't care if you call me a A-hole, it'll just get spirted. I think in the long game of it all, A MOD shouldn't be the bully, just the police officer that makes the call on what the forum owner/Admin. wants the content to be or not to be. It's a crappy job sometimes, but someone has to do it. LOL!

Stall change is fine. I have factory tires and wheels, the ratio is unknown. With stock heads I would love 300 hp. More would be great, but I think 300 is fair. I am stumped on selecting a cam. I do not mind higher rpm's though. My limitations are:no new heads, but I will do any upgrades that will help. No stroker yet. I am willing to have any machine work needed done. Pistons, cam, carb, rockers, machining are all fair game!

I listed a few cheap mod's in this thread. Use these tips (Not the manifold plenum milling) with headers and a Comp Cam XE262H. This cam will not require a converter change and will deliver 300 HP on the newly rebuilt high compresion ratioed short block.

When you bring your heads in, I would suggest a 1.88/1.60 valve swap (360 valves) and good valves to be used along with a compotion valve job on the seat area.

This combo will also have a high torque output. I'll wager 370 ft. lbs. worth.
 
F yeah, sufficient for screaming around! Is that cam on the lopey side?
 
It has a 110 C-line like most cams do. This will lend itself to a chopy sound. Other things add to a choppy sound, like a high compresion engine.
 
I like the advice given so far. You should concentrate on building a strong 318 motor,save a stroker motor for another time.Have your stock heads rebuilt,with the oversize 360 valves installed.Add some porting and there good to go.I like the advice Rumble gave on the cam.For once someday didnt say stuff the biggest cam in you can get.Add a Ede Performer intake and a Ede 600cfm carb.Add some headers,or do what I did and put on some Hi-Po 340 manifolds and you will have a hot little street motor.

Keep it simple,have a plan,and your good to go.

The pic is a 318,stock 60,000mi lower end,Ede Performer intake,Ede 600 carb,340 manifolds,Dual exh Flowmaster 40's,Mopar Electronic ign.

With the rear peg leg,this car would light it up all the way down the street !!!!!!!

Picture 498.jpg
 
Rumble is bang on with his advise. And dont worry you cant hurt his feelings.He dont have nun,lol!

Seriously,I argue with mods all the time..they dont care. It's all about free speech and I love em for respecting this!

I like that cam pick alot rumble. Should fit in well with the rest of the build.
 
I built a budget 318 for the Demon. The block came out of a '68 Coronet. It needed a thorough clean up and cylinder honing. I bought a rebuild kit from Summit. The compression ratio is 9.3:1.

FWIW this is a temporary measure. I'd like to build up a 340 or 360.
Some of the parts for this build up were donated which is largely why I didn't do the 340/360 from the outset.

Crane hydraulic lifters, stock pushrods and rocker arms

Cam Timing: Intake: .441 lift 218º duration @ .050”
Exhaust: .441 lift 228º duration @ .050”

Cylinder heads have been replaced with casting # 4323302.
This head features a “closed” combustion chamber with 62.6 cc volume
Valve Diameter: 1.78 inch (intake)
1.50 inch (exhaust)
Heads have hardened valve seats.

Engine Intake:
Manifold: Edelbrock Performer #2176
Carburetor: Carter AFB rated @ 625 cfm.
 
If you have a tight budget heres something you may want to consider. Stock piston replacements can be used in a performance build.Heres how to make them work.

Stock pistons are oftem .080 or more in the hole resulting in low compression. If you are having the crank ground why not have it offset ground? This in effect moves the center of the rod journal out towards the piston by removing more material from the piston side of the journal than the oil pan side. It can raise the piston quite a bit .020 to .030 not uncommon. More if you want.Theres lots of meat on a sb chrysler crank journal and it wont hurt it at all.

My machinist doesnt charge more to offset grind.Says the setup time is the same as a regular grind.
 
Thanks everybody.

A quick note on my (Extreme) budget build I did on my (now gone) Duster.

OE '79 318 with a Crane cam of similar specs, LD4B, 625 Carter, Hooker Comp headers into Jegs 2-1/2 exhaust, electric fan, OE 904 trans and a sure gripped equiped rear w/3.21's on stock tires ran 15.14 untuned (Well, barley tuned) @ 89 mph.
Heads were box stock except for proper valve springs.

Not bad for a 7.8-1 mill. It would spin good outta the hole. With some tuning, gear and wider tires, maybe even some more stall from the converter, I could see a mid 14 out of it.
 
needsaresto, i am interested in your crank offset grind. The summit kit could work then!
 
Wouldn't domed pistons help with stock replacement! Wouldn't a domed piston take up more room almost tricking the motor into thinking it has zero deck? Sorry if stupid ?
 
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