Good Deal on a 383?

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When I purchase a package deal like your looking at. I always go with the "Is what I can see worth the Price"? You can't look in the motor to see what parts were used, how well it was put together, How good is the machine work, etc. With that in mind if what you know for sure is worth the asking price, than yes it is a fair deal.
 
goldduster318 said:
Also, it doesn't appear you'd be getting any accessory brackets or pulleys with this, so you'd have to buy all of this...where if you swapped to another small block, you already have it...same goes with wiring, it would have to change.
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the wiring is just extending a few wires nothing big. i agree with the brackets and pulleys. they can get pricey if you need to buy them..

Did you ever wonder why they never sold many 383 a-bodies and why they were discontinued? The 340 was just as fast, handled better, and came factory with power steering. You'd have everything you needed but a driver's side mounting bracket already to swap in a 340 or 360.
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yes 40+ years ago..lol a 383 can run very nice, can handle very well with modern equipment and it sounds like run power steering...
 
If you can pull the heads and spin it and it looks OK, I'd offer him $2,800 and stand on $3K unless you're getting a 3.55/3.91 SG. Since you're already planning on suspension upgrades, you can change your plan to work with the added weight of the big block. It's already got an aluminum intake on it, add the aluminum water pump and housing, put the battery in the trunk, and you're pretty close to the weight of an iron SB on the front end. Put the right cam in it and you're golden. There's no replacement for displacement.

I WISH I only had $3K in mine with headers, carb, intake, dizzy, 8 3/4, etc..
 
Tri-Y Schumacher chrome headers
HC (Chrome Plated) - $610 + $35 S&H

Edelbrock Performer RPM intake manifold
$264.97 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-7186/overview/

Edelbrock 750 cfm carb
$349.97 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1411/overview/

MSD Distributor
$275-$415 depending on what one http://www.summitracing.com/search/...e/6-3l-383?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending

MSD performance wires
$70 +/- http://www.summitracing.com/search/...s?tw=msd&sw=MSD Ignition Spark Plug Wire Sets

brand new radiator
could be $150-$600 depending on the rad.

The 8 3/4 rear end is the 741' X stamped rear-end for an A-body with the small bolt pattern axle.

depending on gear and if its a sure grip it could be worth anywhere from $500-$1200..
 
We have daily driven a 440/4sp/manual steering Dart (both my sons as well as myself). It's not that big of a deal. Fuel mileage was the same as my 340/auto GTS convertible. The big problem with the heavy front end and handling was the OEM tires and shocks. With modern rubber and shocks a lot has changed...
 
360 vs 383 I'll take the 383 and use hedman b-body headers. I won't debate the power differance. 383 hands down. if I'm strokin, it's 383 aqain, that 4.25 bore and a longarm will get you some real cubes. nothing like a bigblock in a a-body..
 
I'll share with you what was shared with me several years ago when I was all hell bent on going with a big block in my 67 dart.

Basically a good torquey small block is your best bet. A big block in a a body is nose heavy with rather poor handling characteristics. A small block is lighter and can deliver the same hp and torque. I ended up going with a warmed over 360. Unless it's a numbers matching big block dart stick with a small block.
 
fishmens67 said:
360 vs 383 I'll take the 383 and use hedman b-body headers. I won't debate the power differance. 383 hands down. if I'm strokin, it's 383 aqain, that 4.25 bore and a longarm will get you some real cubes. nothing like a bigblock in a a-body..
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I'm with you, all the BS about a nose heavy BB not handling is ancient BS. It's common knowledge with aluminum intake,heads water pump housing. the weight theory goes out the window. Stroke a SB,stroke a BB. With the BB you wind up with more cubes and torque. But than this is more about what people prefer personally and supporting their theory, me included.
 
I have Schumacher headers on my 440 in a 71 scamp with power steering and brakes. They are tight but do fit well, don't capture the starter, and don't hit the power steering box. Well worth the money in my opinion. I do have aluminum eddy heads, aluminum radiator and water pump/housing, and the car handles pretty well considering I haven't installed a sway bar yet. I did change out the torsion bars and leaf springs though. 383 should have even more clearance in the engine bay.
 
abodyjoe said:
really depends on how each is set up.. either one could be more streetable and get better mileage than the other..

do you have anything for the small block build yet? if so what exactly do you have?

the 383 deal could wind up being a lot cheaper in the long run then building a stroker small block if you are starting from scratch..
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I have absolutely nothing for a small block build besides what I take off of my 273. I honestly would be happy with a stock-ish 360 either way. It's just finding a good, reliable, running one.
 
If I were going small block in a modded car it would be a 5.9 Magnum with all of the injection, etc. Otherwise I've a standard bore 340 in the corner of the garage, but then there is the 440 on the engine stand and my son's 400 block on top of the 340...
 
just go to any cruise-in nite and watch peoples faces when some one opens their a-body hood and it's a small block then watch their faces when there is a big block in the hotrod. people are just amazed that it has a big block in it. besides that, a big block a-body is the best damn hotrod on the planet. any one can stick a small block in an a-body but only a select few have the skill to stick a big block in one. period.
 
MuMu - First, yes the power steering fits with those headers no issues. Second, if you are going to use those headers, expect a performance limitation if you start wanting more power, those will be the bottle neck. Great headers, just not High Performance.

My learning - I have a 440 Dart, love it, is a front end heavy pig. With the 383 and your suspension upgrades, you should be fine for corning, etc, I would still look for some lightening mods - aluminum pump, housing, etc.

By looking at the picture, I don't see a pan, so that tells me you can see the internals. As with all dealings, I would think the seller will come down on the price a bit by simple negotiations. $3300 is not bad for all that, just what direction do you want to go. BTW, by the time you find and rebuild a 360 to make it a stroker, you will have $3300 and possibly then some for a full motor and exhaust.

And I like Jim Lusk's plan, if I did it over, how I would go. I would find a low cost 5.9, do the heads and injection and install. Upgrade everything around that.

And BoB - I agree
 
So, I've been thinking about it and I might just give him a call within the next couple days and buy it. I'm just trying to budget to see approximately how much it would cost. I figure $3k for this package, $3k on suspension (Hotchkis TVS, subframe connectors, greasible lower control arm pins, bushings for both control arms, and T-bars), and $1500 for any of the unknown parts I may be missing... $7500 total for a decent handling car that will make decent power and have a cool factor to it doesn't seem too bad.
 
Something else I noticed... With that high of an intake, am I going to need a hood scoop?
 
So a little bit of an update... I've been trying to get a hold on the seller for the past couple days and he finally replied back. He's been busy with work and since this is my last week of school before my finals next week, I asked him if I can look at the parts on Saturday or sometime late next week. What are some things I should be looking for with regards to the engine, transmission, and rear end? I am a noob at looking and buying parts so remember to keep that into consideration.

As Jim mentioned earlier, it doesn't really seem like he knows what he has. Here is one of his other ads where he thinks he has a big bolt kit with KH calipers... Although, I wouldn't mind those spindles.
 
The seller is pretty unresponsive. Not sure if I'm going to go through with the deal, especially with all the components that could be missing.
 
If it is/was a good deal, it won't be around for long. You need to check it and purchase or pass soon.
 
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