Goodbye Torqstorm, hello Spoolius Ceasar
- Thread starter Toluene56
- Start date
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no, at least not yet. I wanted to get it to a basic start and idle so it could warm up reliably then start to actually tune it. I've been fighting it for a few days finding little issues here and there. But it's a good feeling when it fires up and idles. I do still need to finish some things and add a couple of wires to complete my oil pressure sensor and boost control wiring.
Sounds good, AFR looks really stable at idle.
Man, finally got it work right.. it was idling before, but ran like dog crap. Fixed some settings and cleaned some spark plugs... now it sounds much better.. and It drove semi normally. Just another idle video.. but the idle is much smoother and sounds better.
I'll try and get a driving video, harder to do without something to hold the phone.
I'll try and get a driving video, harder to do without something to hold the phone.
Sounds wicked good! Make sure you're out of ASE (Afterstart enrichment) before you tweak the VE Tables. Looks like you probably are because I see CLT is around 170. Idle was a challenge for me and off-idle/accelerator enrichment is my Kryptonite. I still have a flat spot coming off idle with slight acceleration. I just live with it.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Why can’t you data log and tune through it? Just think of it like an accelerator pump shot. Make it rich in those cells when the throttle opens.
Oh it can totally be tuned out. It’s just so minor I haven’t paid much attention to it. And it’s actually its own table that sits on top of the VE table and adds/subtracts from the main VE.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Yea acceleration enrichment is a multiplier. But you said it was your kryptonite and that made me think you couldn’t figure it out. Not that you haven’t tried yet.
Yup. My problems were mainly timing. And ignition issues. Which I finally got sorted out and reading properly.
I data logged my trip around the neighborhood and found my accel enrichment dumping to 10.0afr when throttle was applied. I adjusted the table when I got back to my house, in park it seemed better but I’ll know more when I have a chance to drive around some more.
I am still fighting idle, trying to get it stable. So far open loop is working well. I was dabbling with closed loop since it pulls the motor down about 150-200rpm when the cooling fan kicks on. But I’ll play with that later on.
Man datalogging is soooo nice. I love being able to go back and see whats happening and then fix the issue before it turns into a bad one. On that note, oil pressure dropped when rev'd up (oops a bit low on oil), fuel pressure also didn't seem to rise with boost. I'll have to figure that one out. And the first time actually going into boost, timing dropped like it was supposed to and MAN did it get fat. But it ran smooth as silk all the way down the highway to the gas station that is until the crank sensor worked itself loose and started losing sync, but my fault.. This is gonna be neat.
I don't know if it's the big cam or what, but this thing absolutely doesn't like using the IAC to help control idle. Works fine for a bit then gets all sorts of wonky. Possible it could be something else. But turning off the IAC and adjusting the throttle screw so far seems better for now. I'm sure it's just something in the tune i'm missing. But working my VE tables and tweaking some things, 9.1psi 11.5afr pulling like a freight train. Nice. I have also ordered a screen and raspberry pi to make my own pi dash... So that will be a neat experience.
As a former engine calibration engineer for an OEM, I'm enjoying your posts on working on the cal. I'm not familiar with what the various aftermarket systems offer for tuning knobs (i.e. their software), but what you describe for the IAC control being ok for a bit and then going out of control sounds like either the gain on it is too high or the rpm signal feeding the IAC/idle logic needs a heavier filter on it to prevent the IAC from chasing it so much. Classic control problem! Does the software have a "proportional" idle spark control where the spark adds/subtracts based on how far the idle rpm is from the commanded rpm? If so, since that acts much faster than the IAC can (IAC has to feed/take away air to the intake, air has to get ingested, then combusted, etc), the gain on that can be more aggressive and more effective to maintain a smoother idle.
Again, I don't know what knobs these aftermarket systems offer but calibration is/was a fun job!! Keep at it as you'll get there! And keep posting - enjoy following along!
Again, I don't know what knobs these aftermarket systems offer but calibration is/was a fun job!! Keep at it as you'll get there! And keep posting - enjoy following along!
It does. I just setup the idle timing control. So I'm going to start over at idle. Get it function without the valve so I can see what setting is causing the issue. But I think it's mostly the ego control for the wideband that is causing it to seek and mess up the idle. So I've adjusted it's ign events reading to see if it will calm down.
Depending on the intake volume, a smaller IAC orifice or more tapered valve itself can also work to slow down the time constant of the system.
And yep, a toggling O2 sensor like a prod vehicle adds to the fun!! Keep at it - you'll get there.
I'm thinking the blank dash would just be easier to get and cut out for the display.
Instead of trying to work with my cobbled piece of crap.
But it a quick test shows the pi dash connecting no problem.
Instead of trying to work with my cobbled piece of crap.
But it a quick test shows the pi dash connecting no problem.
I bought a super cheap GPS module that will function with the raspberry pi4, got it all setup with the TS Dash and now it's showing GPS synced. I Haven't test drove it yet. But everything LOOKS like it should work.
I also had tried to setup a Time delay relay for the safe shutdown of the dash, but the delay relay was doing some funky stuff. It would work when it wasn't plugged into the ecu, but as soon as the USB from the ecu would touch any metal connected to the board it would
Power the board without the Time delay actually being active. SUPER weird. So I established the delay was the issue, removed it and changed the wiring. SO now the dash powers on with the ECU using a 5v transformer and I have a 3.3v transformer off the key accessory which activates a pin for the shutdown manager in TS dash so the unit will power down before I kill the ecu/power. And with the Echo Client on TS Dash I can connect my Laptop to the Dash's wifi hotspot and tune while the dash is still connected.
Just for informational purposes. Here is a list of the products used to make the dash setup.
total - $262.35ish
TS Dash w/ echo client - $60.00
Raspberry Pi4 - $69.99
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TVVJZQT?tag=fabo03-20
7" Touchscreen for pi -$46.54
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CRR8GZCH?tag=fabo03-20
Mini wireless keyboard -$9.99
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TM6132G?tag=fabo03-20
12v to 5v converter - $8.99
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y2V1F8V?tag=fabo03-20
12v to 3.3v converter - $8.99
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C72C12NL?tag=fabo03-20
SD card 128gb - $17.49
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09X7BK27V?tag=fabo03-20
USB-c connector for Pi power connection - $8.99
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CMQ42P9Q?tag=fabo03-20
This is the Time delay i was trying to use, but it was acting funny. I have ordered different types to try if I get froggy. - $14.39
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T3KCQZB?tag=fabo03-20
This is the set of time delays I may try later on. Different design, maybe they'll work without a feedback.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D2QY7SV2?tag=fabo03-20
GPS Module - $16.98
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078Y52FGQ?tag=fabo03-20
I also had tried to setup a Time delay relay for the safe shutdown of the dash, but the delay relay was doing some funky stuff. It would work when it wasn't plugged into the ecu, but as soon as the USB from the ecu would touch any metal connected to the board it would
Power the board without the Time delay actually being active. SUPER weird. So I established the delay was the issue, removed it and changed the wiring. SO now the dash powers on with the ECU using a 5v transformer and I have a 3.3v transformer off the key accessory which activates a pin for the shutdown manager in TS dash so the unit will power down before I kill the ecu/power. And with the Echo Client on TS Dash I can connect my Laptop to the Dash's wifi hotspot and tune while the dash is still connected.
Just for informational purposes. Here is a list of the products used to make the dash setup.
total - $262.35ish
TS Dash w/ echo client - $60.00
Raspberry Pi4 - $69.99
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TVVJZQT?tag=fabo03-20
7" Touchscreen for pi -$46.54
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CRR8GZCH?tag=fabo03-20
Mini wireless keyboard -$9.99
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TM6132G?tag=fabo03-20
12v to 5v converter - $8.99
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y2V1F8V?tag=fabo03-20
12v to 3.3v converter - $8.99
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C72C12NL?tag=fabo03-20
SD card 128gb - $17.49
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09X7BK27V?tag=fabo03-20
USB-c connector for Pi power connection - $8.99
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CMQ42P9Q?tag=fabo03-20
This is the Time delay i was trying to use, but it was acting funny. I have ordered different types to try if I get froggy. - $14.39
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T3KCQZB?tag=fabo03-20
This is the set of time delays I may try later on. Different design, maybe they'll work without a feedback.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D2QY7SV2?tag=fabo03-20
GPS Module - $16.98
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078Y52FGQ?tag=fabo03-20
I added an intake tube to the turbo to put a filter up inside the 6pack scoop. It did help intake air temps, but it also changed the sound.. I thought it broke when it first built boost, totally different sound.
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
Lol, now that's an odd sound!
Well, This thing rips...11.2psi is rowdy. Pretty sure I need more nozzle for meth, But That's easy to remedy. I have noticed that oil pressure is NOT happy when it rev's.. it gets all sorts of unhappy. Looking at logs it looks like the pump may be sucking air. I did add a couple more quarts and it's not AS bad, but still gets wonky. Might have to go for an 8qt pan or maybe an accumulator, not sure which way to go.
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Maybe...but it was worse when it was a qt low, it happened when just driving with low oil. This pan is baffled and all that jazz. I don't want to say the hv pump is sucking the 5qt kevko pan low, but it sorta looks like it. Unless the baffled area isn't big enough and the oil doesn't return fast enough to that particular spot. I haven't tried free reving and seeing if it does it. It could be a slosh thing. Or even the top end oiling setup is dumping too much oil up top.
Just something else to spend money on.
I ran the Kevko 5 qt on my previous build. Nice pan. But I used a standard oil pump also.
I have an na stroker with the same pan, but standard pump. I don't recall it having these issues. Maybe it's just the right circumstances with my loose clearances, valve train setup,hv pump and a slightly too small pan. At least now I can see it happening in logs and fix it.
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