got a brake question..
- Thread starter jeffb
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1wild&crazyguy
Banned
Switching to dual res master with matching splitter block is a safety upgrade by itself.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
In my lifetime --I'm old-- I've been privy to three near really bad failures of brake systems concerning a "single" master.
My second car, one of my 57 Chevies, cracked a tube, from rust? vibration?, and started a leak. Fortunately, I was in an area of little traffic, and managed to get it stopped and towed it home. If this had happened "downtown" "charging" towards a stop sign with traffic backed up.........
My old Landcruiser, a 62 "blew" a cup out of a wheel cylinder. This was not pretty. The solid lifter 340 saw many many grand, as I furiously double-clutched it from about 3rd to first and dumped the clutch.
A friend of mine had bought a Ford Ranchero. Our road, a long straight stretch known as the "Baldy Road" intersects "Boyer" at a T. Fortunately for my friend, directly across from this T intersection is a darn poor power line inspection road. He had just bought the car, and some idiot had damaged the brake line to the rear, and had spliced it back together --with RUBBER HOSE and FUEL HOSE CLAMPS!!!! (Remember C.W. McCall? "Sorta like steppin on a plumb")
Anyhow, he was chargin' down Baldy road at about at least twice the 35mph speed limit, came rippin up to the stop sign and threw out the anchor, only well.....right across the road and crash bump bam, down the power line inspection trail it went.
My second car, one of my 57 Chevies, cracked a tube, from rust? vibration?, and started a leak. Fortunately, I was in an area of little traffic, and managed to get it stopped and towed it home. If this had happened "downtown" "charging" towards a stop sign with traffic backed up.........
My old Landcruiser, a 62 "blew" a cup out of a wheel cylinder. This was not pretty. The solid lifter 340 saw many many grand, as I furiously double-clutched it from about 3rd to first and dumped the clutch.
A friend of mine had bought a Ford Ranchero. Our road, a long straight stretch known as the "Baldy Road" intersects "Boyer" at a T. Fortunately for my friend, directly across from this T intersection is a darn poor power line inspection road. He had just bought the car, and some idiot had damaged the brake line to the rear, and had spliced it back together --with RUBBER HOSE and FUEL HOSE CLAMPS!!!! (Remember C.W. McCall? "Sorta like steppin on a plumb")
Anyhow, he was chargin' down Baldy road at about at least twice the 35mph speed limit, came rippin up to the stop sign and threw out the anchor, only well.....right across the road and crash bump bam, down the power line inspection trail it went.
PlymouthFury
Well-Known Member
A dual master is one of the first things I add to a car if it doesn't have one. Safety is a priority. And while your at it..you might as well check the hoses, lines, and wheel cylinders. I bought a car and on inspection the rear hard line was so rusted that it broke in two when tried to inspect it.
A 1967-up dual master will bolt right up to the original location. It doesn't require much work at all. For a cleaner install you can find the junction block off those '67-up cars. Be sure to get drum brake parts if you are retaining the drums. Disc brake cars use a different master cylinder and have a proportioning valve.
A 1967-up dual master will bolt right up to the original location. It doesn't require much work at all. For a cleaner install you can find the junction block off those '67-up cars. Be sure to get drum brake parts if you are retaining the drums. Disc brake cars use a different master cylinder and have a proportioning valve.
Valiantsignet20
Well-Known Member
Get a drum master cylinder for 67-up. I went with a 75 because the lid doesn't use bolts, it uses a clip. Run a line from the MC to the old junction block and cap the rear brake line port. Then run a line direct from the MC to the rear line. I normally replace the whole line to the axle. Depending on which MC you buy will determine which is the front and rear reservoir. The bigger line will be for the front. Other then bending the line and loosening the old ones its a bolt in. The drum splitter valve is not needed. It is not a proportioning valve just a warning switch for the loss of pressure.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
On my 65 Dart, I am using a power brake master from a Plymouth Breeze, recall $35 at JY. It fits on 73 Dart stand-off brackets with a little filing of bracket holes. This gives a lighter setup than most after-market w/ an alum cylinder like MP sells. I had it bolted up to test fit but removed while painting. Need to adapt the "bubble flare" lines but looks like I can make a standard double flare on other end since tubing size is almost the same.
Currently 10" drums, but plan front discs eventually. I have an adjustable proportioning valve. I'll post if any problems when I start using it.
Currently 10" drums, but plan front discs eventually. I have an adjustable proportioning valve. I'll post if any problems when I start using it.
DonPal
Well-Known Member
Napa Dual Master Cylinder 36338 has a 15/16 inch bore & works for an Early A body setup with discs in the front & drums in the rear. The smaller diameter bore reduces the brake pedal effort for a non power disc brake installation to a reasonable level.
It can be found on early 70's models with a similiar application (non power, disc/drum).
It can be found on early 70's models with a similiar application (non power, disc/drum).
kgip2k
Well-Known Member
I plan on a disc brake upgrade in the future on my 66, but for the $24 at autozone I will spend the money for a dual m/c to have a little peace of mind that at least half of my brakes will work til I change them out.
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